Very new to this and have a few questions.

[nekom]

Hello! This will be my first post here. As I have found in the past, there is a forum for EVERYTHING out there somewhere, and I wasn't surprised to find that wood burning was no exception. I'm sort of new to this, sort of not. I've cut and split small amounts of wood in the past for outdoor campfires on my old property but have only ever used wood for heat in my former home of 4 years in the fireplace (the original fireplace built in about 1900, bad, bad bad bad BAD idea, lost more heat up the open chimney then I ever gained), and that was purchased wood fuel. Now I'm moving back to my old property, and considering that I own acres and acres of trees, I figure I'd be a fool not to go with wood heat with perhaps an oil or LP or even electric backup (natural gas is not available without egregious costs for them to run a line). So while I haven't decided whether to put a manufactured or modular home there yet, I have all but decided that wood heat is perfect for my situation. I have a few questions that I hope someone here may be able to help me with. I realize that every situation is different, everyone's firebox, chimney, wood supply, methods, etc vary and whatever works for one person may not work for another, but I'm just hoping to get some basic guidelines.

For a little further background if it helps, what I have is all hardwood, or at least all deciduous trees, there is not a single evergreen on the property. This is southwestern Pennsylvania. What I have is mostly cherry, walnut, locust and ash, and a lot of one I can't seem to ID (looks like maple but not as pointy, sorta matches the look of either poplar or a tulip tree in my field guide but I'm far from an expert), and I have heard that pine is bad for chimneys so I guess it's good that I've none of that.

1. How many cords per season does it take to heat the average household in a temperate climate?
2. Is it better to split wood green, or to wait a while? I'd swear the wood I could barely split (fresh cut) last weekend split better this weekend. I could be getting a better aim or getting stronger, or perhaps I'm imagining that, just seems to me to be the case.
3. Is one year generally considered seasoned or is 2 or more preferred? Does it depend on the wood?
4. Since I had to remove trees anyway, I've been cutting 2-2 1/2' sections and splitting where the wood was over 2-3" in diameter. I realize this will vary depending on the size of the firebox, but is this a good size estimate not knowing what sort of stove/furnace I'll wind up with? Just generally speaking.
5. To cover or not to cover? Some say it matters, some say it doesn't, just can't bring the wood in after a recent rain if you don't. Is there a general consensus here on that?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[schortie]

I'm only beginning my third year of burning, so some more seasoned veterans may know better, but I can tell you what I've gathered in my experience.


1. How many cords per season does it take to heat the average household in a temperate climate?
We burn 3.5 - 4 full cords of hardwood heating with wood 85-90% of the time. I think most folks generally use about four depending on many variables.

2. Is it better to split wood green, or to wait a while? I'd swear the wood I could barely split (fresh cut) last weekend split better this weekend. I could be getting a better aim or getting stronger, or perhaps I'm imagining that, just seems to me to be the case.
This depends on the type of wood and what shape it's in. Elm may be easier after a while, but it's never been easy for me. Ash, oak, cherry, and maple are a breeze wet or after sitting as long as there aren't big crotches or knots. You're right, some of it's about getting stronger, but most of it (from my experience) is reading the wood you're splitting.
3. Is one year generally considered seasoned or is 2 or more preferred? Does it depend on the wood?
For most wood, one year stacked off the ground is enough. Oak is ridiculous, as you're probably learning if you're reading some recent posts. It takes 2-15 years to season properly.
4. Since I had to remove trees anyway, I've been cutting 2-2 1/2' sections and splitting where the wood was over 2-3" in diameter. I realize this will vary depending on the size of the firebox, but is this a good size estimate not knowing what sort of stove/furnace I'll wind up with? Just generally speaking.
Sixteen is the average length for firewood. I like to have a variety of lengths and sizes of splits. It takes a big stove to take 24" splits and not many do. If you're going with a furnace, I can't comment, but I'd assume you'd be fine.

5. To cover or not to cover? Some say it matters, some say it doesn't, just can't bring the wood in after a recent rain if you don't. Is there a general consensus here on that?
I'd choose a perspective and stick with it. If there's one thing most guys like here, it's how they do it. Just for the record, I move wood into my shed in early fall. It holds at least a season's worth of wood. Next years wood gets covered on top for the winter - about the time of the first snow until about the last snow. It stays uncovered through the summer. I may get chastised for handling my wood more than necessary, but it wouldn't be the first time. ;-)

 

[nekom]

I really appreciate the reply, schortie. As I said I'm really new to this and I'm sure I'll develop what works for me, but I definitely appreciate the tips on what works for you.

One more thing I wondered about, and this may be a LITTLE off topic, but I've noticed that they sell wood/coal burners. I happen to have a virtually (for my purposes) unlimited supply of coal as well, as the company I work for manufactures and refurbishes longwall coal mining machinery. But as with anything free, there is a catch, this is RAW coal. Right out of the mine, crusted and caked up in the panline (kinda like a conveyor belt but made of chains and steel bars) and other equipment. Not washed, not treated, not separated from the slate or any other impurities. To sum it up, it's DIRTY coal. My ex-fiance's father had a stove that would burn both wood and coal. Are those things any good or is it best to stick with one or the other? And will dirty coal produce good heat, bad exhaust fumes, or anything else I want to watch for? My first and primary concern is my family's safety, secondary concern is free heat if I can get it! Well, not free, it's work but not money. I guess nothing is REALLY free.

 

[bogydave]

I think wood burns cleaner than coal. I don't have close neighbors but if I did
they may complain if I burned coal (which we did In WV & PA where I grew up).
Wood leaves a fines ash (almost powder) to clean out of the stove
coal, especially if dirty, leaves clinkers & chunks.
Coal is dirtier & dusty to handle.

More energy in coal than in wood, but less environmentally friendly.
To me. a wood fire , smells good. A coal fire stinks. (sulfur & yucky smell & some toxic components in the smoke)
All just IMO

 

[nekom]

Coal doesn't burn too awful dirty at the nearby power plant, but of course 1. They have scrubbers and such, and 2. It's processed and washed coal. I'm sure dirty raw coal would burn nasty, but I don't have any neighbors downwind whatsoever so there's that. It could be just a terrible idea all around to burn coal, it was just a thought I had since I can basically scrape it off bucketloads at a time for free. But on the other hand, I have enough wood to get me through 50 seasons probably, if I cut it it and manage it right. I have various trees on my property ranging in size from saplings to near 100 foot tall monsters. Where I used to live, in a small city with no property beside the house and a couple feet on each side, I would get $500 natural gas bills in the winter months. Nuts to that! I have all this wood at my disposal, I figure I'd be an absolute idiot not to take advantage of it.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Hello! This will be my first post here. As I have found in the past, there is a forum for EVERYTHING out there somewhere, and I wasn't surprised to find that wood burning was no exception. I'm sort of new to this, sort of not. I've cut and split small amounts of wood in the past for outdoor campfires on my old property but have only ever used wood for heat in my former home of 4 years in the fireplace (the original fireplace built in about 1900, bad, bad bad bad BAD idea, lost more heat up the open chimney then I ever gained), and that was purchased wood fuel. Now I'm moving back to my old property, and considering that I own acres and acres of trees, I figure I'd be a fool not to go with wood heat with perhaps an oil or LP or even electric backup (natural gas is not available without egregious costs for them to run a line). So while I haven't decided whether to put a manufactured or modular home there yet, I have all but decided that wood heat is perfect for my situation. I have a few questions that I hope someone here may be able to help me with. I realize that every situation is different, everyone's firebox, chimney, wood supply, methods, etc vary and whatever works for one person may not work for another, but I'm just hoping to get some basic guidelines.

For a little further background if it helps, what I have is all hardwood, or at least all deciduous trees, there is not a single evergreen on the property. This is southwestern Pennsylvania. What I have is mostly cherry, walnut, locust and ash, and a lot of one I can't seem to ID (looks like maple but not as pointy, sorta matches the look of either poplar or a tulip tree in my field guide but I'm far from an expert), and I have heard that pine is bad for chimneys so I guess it's good that I've none of that.

1. How many cords per season does it take to heat the average household in a temperate climate? Depends on your stove, on the insulatory properties of your home, and how warm you like your house. My parents are old and heat their house with an old insert so they go through about 7 cord per year. Average is between 3-5 cord per year.
2. Is it better to split wood green, or to wait a while? I'd swear the wood I could barely split (fresh cut) last weekend split better this weekend. I could be getting a better aim or getting stronger, or perhaps I'm imagining that, just seems to me to be the case. Opinions differ. My opinion is that wood should be split at the splitter's convenience.
3. Is one year generally considered seasoned or is 2 or more preferred? Does it depend on the wood? Depends on the wood and the climate and how it's stored. The smaller it's split and the better the ventilation the quicker wood dries regardless of species or climate. Most species in most climates will be ready to burn after a year if it's stored properly.
4. Since I had to remove trees anyway, I've been cutting 2-2 1/2' sections and splitting where the wood was over 2-3" in diameter. I realize this will vary depending on the size of the firebox, but is this a good size estimate not knowing what sort of stove/furnace I'll wind up with? Just generally speaking. 24" is pretty long and only a couple big stoves will accommodate wood that long. Most people cut wood 16"-20".
5. To cover or not to cover? Some say it matters, some say it doesn't, just can't bring the wood in after a recent rain if you don't. Is there a general consensus here on that? I say build a woodshed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[bogydave]

My ex-fiance's father had a stove that would burn both wood and coal. Are those things any good or is it best to stick with one or the other? .

Hybrid's (multi use) are like a "crescent wrench", they work,
but for some jobs, a tool designed for the job is normally better.
When you have a problem with it:
You spend time wondering if why you didn't get the "right one" the first time

 

[wood spliter]

Schortie I think said it as I would. I do cover if I have a few days of rain. My winter burning wood is under an overhang. Everything else is the same.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Welcome to the forum nekom. You have come to a good place with lots of knowledge by some very good folks here. I'll attempt to answer some of your questions.

Hello! This will be my first post here. As I have found in the past, there is a forum for EVERYTHING out there somewhere, and I wasn't surprised to find that wood burning was no exception. I'm sort of new to this, sort of not. I've cut and split small amounts of wood in the past for outdoor campfires on my old property but have only ever used wood for heat in my former home of 4 years in the fireplace (the original fireplace built in about 1900, bad, bad bad bad BAD idea, lost more heat up the open chimney then I ever gained), and that was purchased wood fuel. Now I'm moving back to my old property, and considering that I own acres and acres of trees, I figure I'd be a fool not to go with wood heat with perhaps an oil or LP or even electric backup (natural gas is not available without egregious costs for them to run a line). So while I haven't decided whether to put a manufactured or modular home there yet, I have all but decided that wood heat is perfect for my situation. I have a few questions that I hope someone here may be able to help me with. I realize that every situation is different, everyone's firebox, chimney, wood supply, methods, etc vary and whatever works for one person may not work for another, but I'm just hoping to get some basic guidelines.

For a little further background if it helps, what I have is all hardwood, or at least all deciduous trees, there is not a single evergreen on the property. This is southwestern Pennsylvania. What I have is mostly cherry, walnut, locust and ash, and a lot of one I can't seem to ID (looks like maple but not as pointy, sorta matches the look of either poplar or a tulip tree in my field guide but I'm far from an expert), and I have heard that pine is bad for chimneys so I guess it's good that I've none of that.

1. How many cords per season does it take to heat the average household in a temperate climate?

That is a very open question and difficult to answer for obvious reasons. Most folks burn more in their first year than they do in the following years because there is a learning curve. However, if I was to nail down an answer, I'd say from 3 to 7 cords of wood. But so much depends upon that wood and stove etc.


2. Is it better to split wood green, or to wait a while? I'd swear the wood I could barely split (fresh cut) last weekend split better this weekend. I could be getting a better aim or getting stronger, or perhaps I'm imagining that, just seems to me to be the case.

Most of the time splitting green is best. A week should make no difference at all. No doubt you are getting better already and you will learn that all wood does not split the same. Some is best split through the heart and some is best to take slabs from the edges. To really get your dander up, get your hands on some green elm and try to split that! Good luck. lol


3. Is one year generally considered seasoned or is 2 or more preferred? Does it depend on the wood?

1 year on some, 2 years on some and more on others. Many times if you cut and split during the winter months it can be burned the following winter. One of the biggest things is how you keep your split wood. Stacking it (not too tight) in the sun and wind is important. If a choice has to be made between sun and wind, always choose the wind. The wind should hit the sides of your wood pile. If you are going to have to use it sooner rather than later, stack in single rows about 4' high. We do not cover our wood the first summer and fall but do cover before the snow flies and then we cover only the top. It is important to leave the sides and ends open. Remember, cover the top only.


4. Since I had to remove trees anyway, I've been cutting 2-2 1/2' sections and splitting where the wood was over 2-3" in diameter. I realize this will vary depending on the size of the firebox, but is this a good size estimate not knowing what sort of stove/furnace I'll wind up with? Just generally speaking.

Not knowing what size firebox you will have, I would definitely cut into 16" logs. Splitting small will hasten the drying process but they you have to be a bit careful when loading the stove. You need some larger pieces for overnight or long burns. If you fill a stove with dry wood and it is all small then you risk overheating the stove and you do not want that experience.


5. To cover or not to cover? Some say it matters, some say it doesn't, just can't bring the wood in after a recent rain if you don't. Is there a general consensus here on that?

I already answered this one above.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

You will no doubt have many more questions and we are happy to help. For sure, get your wood ahead of time as most folks get the stove and install it and then look for fuel. Heating with wood is best done the other way around.

Good luck to you.

 

[mrfjsf]

Welcome to the forum Nekom. There is sooo much information here it is just too much, lol! Where about in Fayette County are you? I grew up on the outskirts of town, near bute. Now I live in washington county. Im new to woodheat as well. Ive fired the stove a few times this year and from what I can tell, it is going to be great this winter! Im guessing i'll burn 4-5 cords of good hardwood this year. Keep browsing the pages and pages of info here, you can learn a lot quickly.

take care neighbor.

 

[Tony H]

While you have plenty of good answers so I will just comment on the size wood you are cutting.

For length cut 16 to 18 inches this will allow use with just about any wood burner, cut the 24 + stuff in 1/2.
Do not bother to split anything 4" or smaller.
After you find a suitable stove or boiler you can revise the sizes .

 

[Wood Duck]

I had a coal stove and got rid of it. I don't enjoy burning coal: don't like the smell, don't like coal dust, have to buy it instead of cut it yourself, etc. On the other hand, the stove burned pretty clean and put out a ton of heat, but I was using 'rice coal' or something like it - washed small pieces of more or less clean coal. I know if it was me, I'd buy a wood only stove and burn only wood.

I think for the woods you have (and for most wood except oak) one year will be enough to have nicely seasoned wood. Maybe it would be better after two, but you'll be OK after one. Nevertheless, I'd try to get a couple of years ahead. It is a lot more fun cutting wood when you don't have to finish a certain amount of wood by a certain date. I'd cut to 16 inches so that it will fit in any stove. Shorter wood probably seasons faster, too.

 

[Got Wood]

Well, you got one thing right for sure - getting your wood supply taken care of BEFORE getting the stove. The vast majority of people deal with unseasoned wood when they start out. Getting your wood split and stacked ahead of time will prove to be a wise move on your part.

 

[firefighterjake]

Hello! This will be my first post here. Welcome . . . if you have questions about burning wood this is the place to be. As I have found in the past, there is a forum for EVERYTHING out there somewhere, and I wasn't surprised to find that wood burning was no exception. I'm sort of new to this, sort of not. I've cut and split small amounts of wood in the past for outdoor campfires on my old property but have only ever used wood for heat in my former home of 4 years in the fireplace (the original fireplace built in about 1900, bad, bad bad bad BAD idea, lost more heat up the open chimney then I ever gained), and that was purchased wood fuel. Burning wood in a new EPA stove is a whole other experience from burning wood in a camp fire, fireplace or even an older woodstove . . . many of us have had to re-learn some of the old habits we picked up in the past. Now I'm moving back to my old property, and considering that I own acres and acres of trees, I figure I'd be a fool not to go with wood heat with perhaps an oil or LP or even electric backup (natural gas is not available without egregious costs for them to run a line). So while I haven't decided whether to put a manufactured or modular home there yet, I have all but decided that wood heat is perfect for my situation. I came to the same conclusion myself when I realized a few years back that while I had access to a woodlot I did have free access to a pellet mill, propane tank farm or oil well in my backyard. I have a few questions that I hope someone here may be able to help me with. I realize that every situation is different, everyone's firebox, chimney, wood supply, methods, etc vary and whatever works for one person may not work for another, but I'm just hoping to get some basic guidelines.

For a little further background if it helps, what I have is all hardwood, or at least all deciduous trees, there is not a single evergreen on the property. This is southwestern Pennsylvania. What I have is mostly cherry, walnut, locust and ash, and a lot of one I can't seem to ID (looks like maple but not as pointy, sorta matches the look of either poplar or a tulip tree in my field guide but I'm far from an expert), and I have heard that pine is bad for chimneys so I guess it's good that I've none of that. Sounds like you have a great mix of trees -- I love cherry (both for the smell while processing and for its burning characteristics), ash is one of my favorite woods to burn (splits like a dream and throws a lot of heat) and while I haven't used any locust it is one of the highly desirable woods . . . as for pine . . . nah . . . that's one of those old wives tales . . . many of us burn pine and as long as you're burning at the proper temps and burning seasoned pine you can do so safely without risking injury to your chimney . . . heck . . . many folks out west heat with all evergreens.

1. How many cords per season does it take to heat the average household in a temperate climate? I would guess based on what I read here . . . 3-6 cords. I go through 4-6 cords myself I estimate here in central Maine and that's burning 24/7 from now until April or May.

2. Is it better to split wood green, or to wait a while? I'd swear the wood I could barely split (fresh cut) last weekend split better this weekend. I could be getting a better aim or getting stronger, or perhaps I'm imagining that, just seems to me to be the case. Depends . . . some wood splits better when left to dry, some splits better when fresh cut. My own feeling is that I would rather split sooner than later to start the seasoning process since dry wood is good wood.

3. Is one year generally considered seasoned or is 2 or more preferred? Does it depend on the wood? Again . . . depends . . . some wood seasons in a few months . . . generally (short of buying a moisture meter) most folks consider most species of wood to season in a year . . . the exception being some of the denser woods such as oak . . . usually the longer you can let the wood sit and season the better off you'll be with more BTUs and wood that is easier to ignite. I'm at the point where I'm two years ahead so the wood is nice and dry . . . and trust me . . . you will notice a difference between one year and two year wood.

4. Since I had to remove trees anyway, I've been cutting 2-2 1/2' sections and splitting where the wood was over 2-3" in diameter. I realize this will vary depending on the size of the firebox, but is this a good size estimate not knowing what sort of stove/furnace I'll wind up with? Just generally speaking. You're doing one thing right . . . cutting the wood now is a good thing since many folks get the stove and then find out that their wood is unseasoned and just will not burn well. As others have said, if you don't know the size cutting to 16 inches is a good length since that size should fit almost every firebox . . . after you buy your stove you may find that you will want to increase the length.

5. To cover or not to cover? Some say it matters, some say it doesn't, just can't bring the wood in after a recent rain if you don't. Is there a general consensus here on that? No real consensus . . . some top cover, some don't . . . me I believe in leaving the covers off until you are ready to start burning the wood . . .

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[billb3]

I had a combo wood stove / coal stove years ago and it did neither very well.
(still in a corner in the basement)
I was feeding it very dry pine and spruce and it was a lot of work for a small amount of heat.

Personally, I'd buy a dedicated stove to get the maximum efficiency.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Welcome to the forum KingNFM. We'll be watching and waiting for you. You might start a new thread and a suggestion would be to take some pictures of that wood you just cut. Do you know what kind of wood it is?

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Well, there is more than one computer geek on here that also is an outdoor person. In fact, I know a few others that fit the bill too.

If that is oak, you might have a problem getting that to burn good this year.

 

[firefighterjake]

Welcome to the forum KingNFM. We'll be watching and waiting for you. You might start a new thread and a suggestion would be to take some pictures of that wood you just cut. Do you know what kind of wood it is?

Uh Dennis . . . are you losing it . . . or am I . . . I don't see any posts from any members named KingNFM. Has splitting vertically finally affected your mind?

Incidentally, not to derail things . . . but how are you doing . . . just a bit concerned for you.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Where did it go?

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Where did it go? When I go back to look at that post all I get is the message that says, "The following errors were encountered You are not authorized to perform this action"

 

[firefighterjake]

Where did it go? When I go back to look at that post all I get is the message that says, "The following errors were encountered You are not authorized to perform this action"

OK Dennis . . . step away from the computer . . . and stand up from the splitter and slowly swivel it to the horizontal position . . . obviously this splitting vertical thing is affecting you.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I need a drink badly Jake!

 

[yanksforever]

Hello! This will be my first post here. Welcome . . . if you have questions about burning wood this is the place to be. As I have found in the past, there is a forum for EVERYTHING out there somewhere, and I wasn't surprised to find that wood burning was no exception. I'm sort of new to this, sort of not. I've cut and split small amounts of wood in the past for outdoor campfires on my old property but have only ever used wood for heat in my former home of 4 years in the fireplace (the original fireplace built in about 1900, bad, bad bad bad BAD idea, lost more heat up the open chimney then I ever gained), and that was purchased wood fuel. Burning wood in a new EPA stove is a whole other experience from burning wood in a camp fire, fireplace or even an older woodstove . . . many of us have had to re-learn some of the old habits we picked up in the past. Now I'm moving back to my old property, and considering that I own acres and acres of trees, I figure I'd be a fool not to go with wood heat with perhaps an oil or LP or even electric backup (natural gas is not available without egregious costs for them to run a line). So while I haven't decided whether to put a manufactured or modular home there yet, I have all but decided that wood heat is perfect for my situation. I came to the same conclusion myself when I realized a few years back that while I had access to a woodlot I did have free access to a pellet mill, propane tank farm or oil well in my backyard. I have a few questions that I hope someone here may be able to help me with. I realize that every situation is different, everyone's firebox, chimney, wood supply, methods, etc vary and whatever works for one person may not work for another, but I'm just hoping to get some basic guidelines.

For a little further background if it helps, what I have is all hardwood, or at least all deciduous trees, there is not a single evergreen on the property. This is southwestern Pennsylvania. What I have is mostly cherry, walnut, locust and ash, and a lot of one I can't seem to ID (looks like maple but not as pointy, sorta matches the look of either poplar or a tulip tree in my field guide but I'm far from an expert), and I have heard that pine is bad for chimneys so I guess it's good that I've none of that. Sounds like you have a great mix of trees -- I love cherry (both for the smell while processing and for its burning characteristics), ash is one of my favorite woods to burn (splits like a dream and throws a lot of heat) and while I haven't used any locust it is one of the highly desirable woods . . . as for pine . . . nah . . . that's one of those old wives tales . . . many of us burn pine and as long as you're burning at the proper temps and burning seasoned pine you can do so safely without risking injury to your chimney . . . heck . . . many folks out west heat with all evergreens.

1. How many cords per season does it take to heat the average household in a temperate climate? I would guess based on what I read here . . . 3-6 cords. I go through 4-6 cords myself I estimate here in central Maine and that's burning 24/7 from now until April or May.

2. Is it better to split wood green, or to wait a while? I'd swear the wood I could barely split (fresh cut) last weekend split better this weekend. I could be getting a better aim or getting stronger, or perhaps I'm imagining that, just seems to me to be the case. Depends . . . some wood splits better when left to dry, some splits better when fresh cut. My own feeling is that I would rather split sooner than later to start the seasoning process since dry wood is good wood.

3. Is one year generally considered seasoned or is 2 or more preferred? Does it depend on the wood? Again . . . depends . . . some wood seasons in a few months . . . generally (short of buying a moisture meter) most folks consider most species of wood to season in a year . . . the exception being some of the denser woods such as oak . . . usually the longer you can let the wood sit and season the better off you'll be with more BTUs and wood that is easier to ignite. I'm at the point where I'm two years ahead so the wood is nice and dry . . . and trust me . . . you will notice a difference between one year and two year wood.

4. Since I had to remove trees anyway, I've been cutting 2-2 1/2' sections and splitting where the wood was over 2-3" in diameter. I realize this will vary depending on the size of the firebox, but is this a good size estimate not knowing what sort of stove/furnace I'll wind up with? Just generally speaking. You're doing one thing right . . . cutting the wood now is a good thing since many folks get the stove and then find out that their wood is unseasoned and just will not burn well. As others have said, if you don't know the size cutting to 16 inches is a good length since that size should fit almost every firebox . . . after you buy your stove you may find that you will want to increase the length.

5. To cover or not to cover? Some say it matters, some say it doesn't, just can't bring the wood in after a recent rain if you don't. Is there a general consensus here on that? No real consensus . . . some top cover, some don't . . . me I believe in leaving the covers off until you are ready to start burning the wood . . .

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

+1 Ditto

 

[KingNFM]

Odd....I had to re-register as it told me that there was no account listed with my name.

Anyways, as I posted earlier. I do appreciate all the help you guys have given me as I've read through these threads. I almost came to you guys again last night for some help since my wood burning stove had a split glass. I did order the parts but go figure I messed up and snapped two of the screws in the door when I removed the frame. I ended up having to go to a machinist to get the screws drilled out and re-threaded.

Ugh.....


I do have a rather simple question....where is a good place to find a moisture meter? Since I'm new to all this I figure it's something I should invest in.

 

[fire_man]

Where did it go? When I go back to look at that post all I get is the message that says, "The following errors were encountered You are not authorized to perform this action"

OK Dennis . . . step away from the computer . . . and stand up from the splitter and slowly swivel it to the horizontal position . . . obviously this splitting vertical thing is affecting you.

Vertical splitting makes all of the blood drain away from the brain.