Could I run my OAK out the back of the 13 to a 90 then straight up to the attic about 11ft. To help with backdraft I would install a check valve and maybe a trap (like under the sink) in the attic to cause some turbulence, or slow things down if the cold air from the attic rushes down the pipe. Also I was considering a ball valve about eye level behind the stove to regulate airflow in the event of an overfire or too much draft on (rare for me) really cold days. If I can find a ball valve that would not downsize the pipe and keep the full 3" until it starts to close.
I would like to use black PVC for most of it and a small piece of flex of aluminum for the part off the stove. It would be approx 18-20" from the flue which is single wall. Actually when I think about more I could move it even further into the corner and paint it to match the wall color.
All this stems from the stove being central in the home and to get to fresh air would be very difficult, the place outside it would go would be right next to the front door steps. Plus the work area in the basement is a finished area with existing furnace duct work that would have to be removed, something I don't want to do, only if I can't go vertical. I thought the fresh air from the ridge vent would work just the same.
I would like to use black PVC for most of it and a small piece of flex of aluminum for the part off the stove. It would be approx 18-20" from the flue which is single wall. Actually when I think about more I could move it even further into the corner and paint it to match the wall color.
All this stems from the stove being central in the home and to get to fresh air would be very difficult, the place outside it would go would be right next to the front door steps. Plus the work area in the basement is a finished area with existing furnace duct work that would have to be removed, something I don't want to do, only if I can't go vertical. I thought the fresh air from the ridge vent would work just the same.