Vermont Casting Red Enamel Encore Changing Color

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Cfind19

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 16, 2007
5
Nova Scotia
Hi Folks
I have a brand new Vermont Casting Encore. It is Enamel Bordeaux Red. Our previous stove was a Resolute which we have moved to the cottage after 22 years of heating our home. We have been slowly increasing the size of the fires as per the instructions that came with the stove and last night had, what I consider to be, a normal fire. The sides and doors of the stove changed color completely - they went to a brown - while the top and legs stayed red. This morning the the stove is now room temperature but the sides and doors are now a darker shade of red than the top and legs. Anyone else had this experience? Is it normal for enamal stoves to change color while heating and after?
 
It is normal for it to change color when there is a fire in there. Many can judge the burn by the color it will it is in.

You are still breaking it in If you have an issue talk to the dealer you purchased form If you do not receive the correct answer I will talk to VC and get you a correct answer
 
My Hearth Stone Heritage has sea-foam enamel a premium finish designed to change color while heating and after. I have seen it happen in a dealers stove. Mine never changes color at all. And yours just changes go figure.
 
I bought the stove through a local Building supply - they are not knowledgable at all about the stove. I will try a few more burns and see what hapens. The manual says nothing about color changes.

Thanks for the help
Do you know why it roars with the damper closed? I loaded it 1/2 hour ago before turning in and it is just roaring with the damper closed and the thermostat all the way back. I pushed the ash door in hard and that helped a bit. It seems to be sucking a lot of air from somewhere. Hot as heck now and the metal is clicking and snapping - can't slow it down. I am really starting to wish I had not bought this stove.
 
It could be that there is an air leak. The ashpan door is a good place to look. Try the dollar bill test for all gaskets to see if they are sealing well.

Which Encore is this - cat or non-cat everburn? How tall is the flue on the stove? Also, do you have a stovetop and or stack thermometer?
 
Cfind19 said:
I bought the stove through a local Building supply - they are not knowledgable at all about the stove. I will try a few more burns and see what hapens. The manual says nothing about color changes.

Thanks for the help
Do you know why it roars with the damper closed? I loaded it 1/2 hour ago before turning in and it is just roaring with the damper closed and the thermostat all the way back. I pushed the ash door in hard and that helped a bit. It seems to be sucking a lot of air from somewhere. Hot as heck now and the metal is clicking and snapping - can't slow it down. I am really starting to wish I had not bought this stove.
I remember reading some previous threads regarding the roaring issues. try this https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/6331/
 
Starting from step one who installed the stove and explain the setup next check the flue collar do you see and crimping exposed?

If it was professionally installed ,did they adjust the door and ash pan latches? sounds like the ask door latch needs to be tightened there are instructions in the manual as to how to do that.

If you have the Everburn stove it is common to here a rumble upon activation of the damper. If you supply enough info I think we can solve your problems and get you over the hump.

Also there is a consumer 1800 hot line you can call to get answers. First adjust the latch to the ash pan door tighter and report back about your flue collar connection


on the color change it tuens darker the hoter the fire is naturally the upperpart of the stove is hotter than the bottom legs so they will not channge when the stove id=s fired this happens with many ceranic coated stoves it did that with my blue stove
 
Red is a particularly difficult enamel color, and both Jotul and VC have had such color changes over the years - BUT, the changes should not be very pronounced when the stove is cold....at least after awhile. I'd say to run it for a month or more, then look more carefully......

Some older Jotuls used to get a certain "liver" color after while, but it was somewhat endearing....in other words, we had none - or few complaints over the years. At one point, I think Jotul even asked us to mention to customers (or maybe it was VC) about Red Enamel.

Again, these are typically slight changes over a long while. I have seen red enamel Jotuls 20+ years old - Lange (stoves) also.
 
We still have our cranberry red 602 stored in the garage. It would darken when hot, but always returned to it's brighter color when it cooled down, even when it went north of 800 degrees.
 
My brother has one of the older red VC Intrepid non-cats and it changes color as well. It does not seem to be a problem.
 
Cfind19 said:
I bought the stove through a local Building supply - they are not knowledgable at all about the stove. I will try a few more burns and see what hapens. The manual says nothing about color changes.

Thanks for the help
Do you know why it roars with the damper closed? I loaded it 1/2 hour ago before turning in and it is just roaring with the damper closed and the thermostat all the way back. I pushed the ash door in hard and that helped a bit. It seems to be sucking a lot of air from somewhere. Hot as heck now and the metal is clicking and snapping - can't slow it down. I am really starting to wish I had not bought this stove.

Was the stove on clearance? Some other great deal? Why did you buy from a source that is "not knowledgable" about the stove? Are you a confident DIYer?

If you are already regretting your purchase I have to wonder what you were expecting to begin with. I'm not trying to pick a fight. Please forgive me for being so forward. I am merely seeing what is playing out many times over in the stove market.

Many of my customers are quick to blame either the stove or me, or the manufacturer, when things are not as they expect. I recently completed a service call where I checked the stove over very carefully, right in front of the customer, showing them the stove design as I went along. (A modern VC non-cat model). They could clearly see that the stove itself was in perfect condition and that there was no defect. I put it back together, as they watched. We talked about how it works and they seemed to accept that the stove was in perfect working order.

Before I started the troubleshooting I asked some questions and inspected their wood pile and chimney, etc. I knew the wood was the problem but I also knew they would not accept a simple "it's your wood" answer. They were already convinced the stove had a problem. I felt it would be a good idea to check out the possibility they were right before blaming their wood and fire starting techniques. After I was done with the stove I suggested they start a fire so we could all see what they were experiencing first hand. As I watched the process I knew immediately I was right about the wood. They said they only use the dead trees on the property. The wood pile was full of punky, fungus filled, wet wood. The "kindling" was wet, dead, fungus filled branches. We ended up conversing about the wood and how they start and build the fire. The stove was not at fault.

Just a week before I serviced another VC Encore Cat where the customer claimed it "never worked right" and they can't get the stove to burn below 700 degrees. I promised to check the stove over carefully. I checked the seals and verified all the internal parts were installed correctly. However, I found two problems, one, the stove top thermometer they were using was reading 200 degrees at room temperature. Second, the ash pan door gasket was hanging out loose and draped over the ash pan. I replaced the thermometer with a new one and re-installed the gasket. The stove was in perfect working order. The defect was the customer, in this case (not maintaining the gaskets).

In both these cases the customer was quite irritated and convinced that the stove was bad. They also complained about the service they were getting. Neither of them considered that they might be the problem. And I can say that this is the normal reaction. Very few of my customers believe that their own knowledge is lacking or that they could be in any way contributing to the problems they are experiencing.

Again, please don't take this personally. I don't know enough yet to say whether you are, or are not, giving fair consideration to your own lack of knowledge. My point is that these stoves require a fair amount of maintenance and the user has to pay attention to make sure the stove is ready for use and that they are given a good fuel. If you buy from a source that is "not knowledgable" about your stove you will have to go through the learning curve yourself. We cannot be quick to blame the stove until our own knowledge about how things work comes into line with how the manufacturer intends for the stove to be used. With these VC models it is especially necessary to get help from a good VC technician when things aren't going right.

I'm sure we can help you get the kinks worked out. I hope you will end up being a cheerleader for the stove once you get to know it a little better. The VC Encore is one of the best designed stoves available.

And yes, the red enamel changes to a deep dark red when hot.

Sean
 
Hi Folks

Thanks for all the feedback!

It is a new stove, and as I indicated we have been burning wood for almst 25 years. The stove "installation" was a matter of disconnecting the pipe from the resolute and connecting it to the Encore. Having moved the resolute in the past I felt I could handle that job. The sliding double wall stove pipe connected to the selkirk allowed for the variance in height.

Yes you can still see the top of the crimp although the pipe is bottomed out in the 6 inch collar. The roaring sound seems to be coming from inside the stove and only happens when the damper is closed. It does not appear to be in the collar and is definitely not in the pipe.

I tried a 3/4 load of new dry maple last night and the outcome was not good. Blast furnace would best describe the effect. The wood incinerated in about 2 hours. I have noticed that pushing on the ash door reduces the roar a bit and I will try to adjust the door tonite. It seems to be sucking too much air from somewhere. the thermostat and damper are working and do effect the burn. It has been fairly calm (no wind/excess venturi) here the last few days and the indore to outdoor temp differential has been minimal. I suspect tht the draw is well below average for this chimmney relative to the norm over the entire burning season - high winds in winter being the highest draw on the selkirk.

I have a call into the DYI home improvement big box store where I purchased it. I am trying to get hold of there WETT person. I am hoping to make that connection tommorrow.

I appreciate the feedback. I do not take offense. I paid full price for the stove (non-cat) which was a special order. I 'd like to resolve this issue.
 
From prior posts by people with Everburn technology stoves the "rumble" is a normal thing coming from the re-burn in the Everburn combustion chamber. Some owners regale in getting the rumble going strong. But at least one poster did in fact find out that a leaking ash pan door was not only giving him a mega-rumble but the back of the re-burn chamber on the stove was glowing red. When the factory rep came out he adjusted the hinge on the ash pan door to fix it. Seems it had gotten bent and must be common in transit because he went immediately to the problem area.

Sealing up the air incursions should bring it back under control.
 
I've been putting barometric dampers on most stove installations where the chimney is anything taller than a typical ranch house height.
You can seal all the leaks you can find except Uncle Sam's. The barometric damper "fine tunes" the draft caused by those EPA mandated air gaps.
On a given day, set the weight on the baro so the valve hovers like a butterfly. Most stoves seem to settle down and remain quite respectable, while under the influence of a barometric damper.
 
Bingo Bingo!

Pyro Extraordinaire nailed it. Thanks!!!

The ash door seems to have bent down slightly in shipping and the handle lock nut had backed right off about 2 turns and the screw was floating loose. As I recall the unit was shipped on a fabricated wooden block and the entire 400 lb stove was resting on the ash pan. Probably slid around a bit during shipping and hit it.

Have tightened and straightened everything - seals tight and the door is higher up now.

One of the symptoms of the problem that I didn't realise we had was the glass in the door was creasoting over when in use with the damper on. That has completely stopped. The stove works entirely differently now. very controllable and the roar is completely gone. Blessed silence. Looks like one of those electric fireplaces now! :)

Now just have to get used to the chameleon act. Will be watching the color change and will report back

Thanks everyone for the help!!
 
BrotherBart said:
From prior posts by people with Everburn technology stoves the "rumble" is a normal thing coming from the re-burn in the Everburn combustion chamber. Some owners regale in getting the rumble going strong. But at least one poster did in fact find out that a leaking ash pan door was not only giving him a mega-rumble but the back of the re-burn chamber on the stove was glowing red. When the factory rep came out he adjusted the hinge on the ash pan door to fix it. Seems it had gotten bent and must be common in transit because he went immediately to the problem area.

Sealing up the air incursions should bring it back under control.

Sounds like VC would be wise to investigate this shipping issue and redesign their palettes to avoid the problem. Here is another case on Hearth.com. If there are a few here, there are likely many happening out in the field. It would be a shame to have a perfectly good stove disparaged by a simple shipping issue.
 
Cfind19 said:
Hi Folks

Thanks for all the feedback!

It is a new stove, and as I indicated we have been burning wood for almst 25 years. The stove "installation" was a matter of disconnecting the pipe from the resolute and connecting it to the Encore. Having moved the resolute in the past I felt I could handle that job. The sliding double wall stove pipe connected to the selkirk allowed for the variance in height.

Yes you can still see the top of the crimp although the pipe is bottomed out in the 6 inch collar. The roaring sound seems to be coming from inside the stove and only happens when the damper is closed. It does not appear to be in the collar and is definitely not in the pipe.

I tried a 3/4 load of new dry maple last night and the outcome was not good. Blast furnace would best describe the effect. The wood incinerated in about 2 hours. I have noticed that pushing on the ash door reduces the roar a bit and I will try to adjust the door tonite. It seems to be sucking too much air from somewhere. the thermostat and damper are working and do effect the burn. It has been fairly calm (no wind/excess venturi) here the last few days and the indore to outdoor temp differential has been minimal. I suspect tht the draw is well below average for this chimmney relative to the norm over the entire burning season - high winds in winter being the highest draw on the selkirk.

I have a call into the DYI home improvement big box store where I purchased it. I am trying to get hold of there WETT person. I am hoping to make that connection tommorrow.

I appreciate the feedback. I do not take offense. I paid full price for the stove (non-cat) which was a special order. I 'd like to resolve this issue.

Glad you have found the problem with the ash door, but it sounds like you may still have a smaller problem with the stovepipe connection.

For some reason, manufacturers tend to put less depth on their stove vent outlets than the standard crimp length on most stove pipe. If people just slide the pipe in until it bottoms, and crimps are still showing, you can get air leakage into the chimney through the crimps. This may have been a contributing factor to problems experienced by some other Everburn owners. At the very least it can cause reduced draft, and may contribute to creosote by cooling the chimney.

While they do make special "connector pipes" with shorter crimps, the simplest method is to measure the depth of the stove connector, and then trim the end of the stove pipe so that it is about 1/8" shorter between the end of the pipe and the bulge above the crimp section - when properly assembled, the bulge should be touching the stove collar. Also you should put a bead of furnace cement in the collar to ensure that it has an airtight seal.

Good luck with the new stove.

Gooserider
 
Hey Brother Bart
Thanks also to you - I see your post. It does sound like VC may wnat to look at this issue. At the very minimium post a special warning in their shipping paperwork to check this. I have the impression that some on this group have ci=ontacts at VC? Is there a way to pass the message?
 
IT may be a shipping issue but also it could get damaged in the moving part in your home damaged during installation.

Vc is aware of this issue and Brother B followed a similar post last year where their head tech solved the problem.

All dealers were sent a memo to check the hinge and seal of the ash door. Also I too think you should create a better seal at the flue collar connection
 
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