VC Montpelier II vs Lopi Evergreen vs Lopi Flush Wood for 2.2k sq ft home

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yuryk

New Member
Feb 17, 2024
94
Eastern MA
Dear community!

We recently moved to our very first house (in MA) and faced huge bills for that oil fired boiler. So we decided to use our fireplace and put in an insert wood stove to save on that heating bill. In fact we've almost been talked into install in a propane one, but after evaluating fuel price, we decided to get a wood stove. The house is 2.2k sq ft, has 2 stories and fireplace is in the first floor.

In our local store we seem to have a choice between VC Montpelier II, Lopi Evergreen or Lopi Flush Wood ones. I really like the Evergreen, especially its chimney damper and ability to boil water on it. But from these three it seem to have the smallest viewing window, which is a factor too, since we wanted to enjoy the fire being in the room. Although, I'm not sure if we lose in efficiency if we choose one of the other two since they're flat face ones. Plus, that chimney damper that Lopi has is a big advantage for chimney sweep since we wouldn't have to move the insert to do that.

Guys who have experience with these, what do you think? Are there any other factors that we need to consider? Is there anything significant to consider if choosing flat face insert vs non-flat one or between these specific models?

Thank you in advance!

P.S.: This is my first post on this forum, please excuse me or any silly questions.
 
Welcome to the forum! You'll find a lot of good help here. Take your time on this decision as the burning season is almost over so there is no rush (i.e., you should not be trying to install a stove before April). Also, start to line up your wood supply as you will need to let your wood dry a minimum of 2 years (no matter what the firewood dealer tells you about how well "seasoned" their wood is) outside while covered. EVERY firewood dealer will tell you this is not required, that their wood is dry and ready to go, and you should ignore them all. The single biggest issue every new stove burner has is wood that is not dry enough, and not dry enough wood will frustrate you to no end as you are new to wood burning, and might even cause you to throw in the towel early.

Having said all that, I highly recommend the Lopi stoves. They are well-built stoves that will last you a long time. The Vermont Castings company has changed hands a few times in the last ten or so years and there have been a lot of reported quality issues. Their stoves look beautiful, but if you are going to use the stove as a serious burner I would stay away from them. I would encourage you to broaden your search beyond the local hearth store as well - there are other good brands carried by other dealers that are available to you in your area. Woodstock sells direct, but they are not far from you and you may like some of their stoves as well (I have one and am very pleased with it).

You will get a lot more questions about your setup before people give you advice on specific stove models, and if you are patient and answer all the queries you will get a lot of great advice here.
 
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Get wood ASAP. Most mod wood needs two summers of drying. Build a woodshed that will store 3 years worth in separate bays.

Lopi makes a good stove. Insist on an insulated liner with insulated blockoff plate.
 
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Thank you guys for your warm welcome and useful information.
you should not be trying to install a stove before April
Really? What are the reasons for that? I thought I could get it installed by March, so I could save on that heating bill for at least March and April, which are cold months too here... Shouldn't I?

I highly recommend the Lopi stoves
What do you think about flat face vs sticking-out ones? I.e. (broken link removed to https://www.lopistoves.com/product/evergreen-nexgen-fyre/) vs Flush Wood ones from Lopi? Would the Evergreen also be a more "serious" one versus the Flush Wood?

start to line up your wood supply
Interesting, did not think about it. I thought I could order and use it right away. Will then start thinking about it, thanks!

I would encourage you to broaden your search beyond the local hearth store
That's where I was surprised. I did not find anything besides Home Depot or even ebay, but I am a bit sceptical to buy one from there. Could you please suggest anything besides Woodstock? Looks like they only have free standing ones...

Insist on an insulated liner with insulated blockoff plate
Thank you, did not know about it, very helpful, I'll keep it in mind!
 
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Really? What are the reasons for that? I thought I could get it installed by March, so I could save on that heating bill for at least March and April, which are cold months too here... Shouldn't I?
You answered your own question:
I thought I could order and use it right away. Will then start thinking about it, thanks!
I basically figured you didn't have any wood split and stacked for two years already, so I was discouraging you from adding a stove in March and expecting to get any useful heat out of it when burning wet wood.
 
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What do you think about flat face vs sticking-out ones? I.e. (broken link removed to https://www.lopistoves.com/product/evergreen-nexgen-fyre/) vs Flush Wood ones from Lopi? Would the Evergreen also be a more "serious" one versus the Flush Wood?
There are others on this forum who are more up to date on the different stoves, so I'll let them comment. But I can vouch for overall Lopi quality.
 
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That's where I was surprised. I did not find anything besides Home Depot or even ebay, but I am a bit sceptical to buy one from there. Could you please suggest anything besides Woodstock? Looks like they only have free standing ones...
Where in Eastern MA are you located? If you provided a city then I am sure we can suggest some good dealers near to you.
 
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But I can vouch for overall Lopi quality.
Thanks! I've been at the dealer again today and then measured my fireplace with a carton box, after which I now lean to getting Lopi Large Flushwood, since it would barely fit our fireplace. I think that putting a smaller and less powerful Evergreen (even though I like it) would be a waste of fireplace space. Plus it has a very big display window, so it would look like a fireplace and give a decent amount of heat in winter. It's just that catalytic combuster that I'm not sure about... As a beginner wood stove user, I'm sure I'll burn non-hard wood few times, so I hope I won't make it dirty too quickly...

I basically figured you didn't have any wood split and stacked for two years already, so I was discouraging you from adding a stove in March and expecting to get any useful heat out of it when burning wet wood.
Oh, I was thinking just ordering more than I need, like 2 cords and store the most of it in a shed, while burning the rest... Plus, everything goes up in price quickly. As I heard, the manufacturers revise their stove prices somewhere in March. So it might get more expensive. I've got a quote today for the Lopi Large Flushwood, which is about 8k with installation, which is a lot for me already, so I don't want it to get even more expensive...

If you provided a city then I am sure we can suggest some good dealers near to you.
What about Milford? Thank you.
 
Insist on an insulated liner with insulated blockoff plate.
@EbS-P , I've asked the dealer today if they put the insulated liner. They said they don't usually do it, it's twice more expensive than a regular one (1700 vs 800) and it might not fit into my existing fireplace flue. Also they said that they will seal it at the top, as well as at the bottom, so that way having insulated liner would not make much of a difference since I would not lose in efficiency in that case. What do you think about it? Thank you.
 
@EbS-P , I've asked the dealer today if they put the insulated liner. They said they don't usually do it, it's twice more expensive than a regular one (1700 vs 800) and it might not fit into my existing fireplace flue. Also they said that they will seal it at the top, as well as at the bottom, so that way having insulated liner would not make much of a difference since I would not lose in efficiency in that case. What do you think about it? Thank you.
It’s more about does your chimney meet code. Eternal chimney a need 1” clearance to all combustibles and interior need 2”. This is clearance to framing roof sheeting ect.

You want a a sheet metal blockoff plate that’s well sealed. Not just insulation stuffed in.
 
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Thanks! I've been at the dealer again today and then measured my fireplace with a carton box, after which I now lean to getting Lopi Large Flushwood, since it would barely fit our fireplace. I think that putting a smaller and less powerful Evergreen (even though I like it) would be a waste of fireplace space. Plus it has a very big display window, so it would look like a fireplace and give a decent amount of heat in winter. It's just that catalytic combuster that I'm not sure about... As a beginner wood stove user, I'm sure I'll burn non-hard wood few times, so I hope I won't make it dirty too quickly...


Oh, I was thinking just ordering more than I need, like 2 cords and store the most of it in a shed, while burning the rest... Plus, everything goes up in price quickly. As I heard, the manufacturers revise their stove prices somewhere in March. So it might get more expensive. I've got a quote today for the Lopi Large Flushwood, which is about 8k with installation, which is a lot for me already, so I don't want it to get even more expensive...


What about Milford? Thank you.

The chance of buying wood that is ready to burn is slim to none. The wood dealer will tell you his wood is seasoned, but it isn't. It will need a summer to season at the minimum. The #1 problem that people new to wood stoves have in their first year of burning is wet wood. It's not fun. You produce a lot of creosote and not a lot of heat as you boil the water out of your wood.
 
You want a a sheet metal blockoff plate that’s well sealed. Not just insulation stuffed in.
Thank you, that's very good to know, will keep that in mind. Do you know if it's usually a lot more expensive to have such plate? Just to be prepared for an argument if they simply don't do it...
The chance of buying wood that is ready to burn is slim to none.
Wow, I did not expect that, thanks. Since others also mentioned same thing here, looks like it's not just an exaggeration... I guess this is a problem then because I won't last another winter with such huge heating oil bills :) So if I even wait out this winter/spring, I'll have to burn what I order next winter. Anyway, good food for thought, thank you and everyone else!
 
It’s more expensive. If they can’t do it for 100$ in materials and in under 2 hours they haven’t done one. Biggest cost will be labor. It speaks more to the installers thoroughness and attention to detail. It can be a diy project but its much easier to to right before the insert is installed. But it is hard to get exact measurements until you have the insert in place.

You want a blockoff plate and the best time to do it s when the stove is installed.
 
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Thank you, that's very good to know, will keep that in mind. Do you know if it's usually a lot more expensive to have such plate? Just to be prepared for an argument if they simply don't do it...

Wow, I did not expect that, thanks. Since others also mentioned same thing here, looks like it's not just an exaggeration... I guess this is a problem then because I won't last another winter with such huge heating oil bills :) So if I even wait out this winter/spring, I'll have to burn what I order next winter. Anyway, good food for thought, thank you and everyone else!
If you ordered some wood soon there is a good chance of it being ready to burn by October. Stack it out in the wind and sun for the summer. Or search on here for solar kilns, they can dry wood pretty quick.
 
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ya,my guy that i buy wood from always tells me ,ya it's dry ready to burn split it in june received it in october so i doubled the order suffered for one winter now i'm a bit ahead
 
if they simply don't do it...
regarding a block-off plate, you should have one, you will regret it if you don't, it will be harder to add later, and your installer will most likely come up with a bunch of reasons why you don't need it or shouldn't want it. BUT, if you do find an installer that will do it for you, put that installer at the top of your list to consider purchasing from.
 
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Get wood ASAP
If you ordered some wood soon there is a good chance of it being ready to burn by October
Guys, since we touched subject of wood here... Only now I'm able to order some wood. Better late than never, but I ordered only 1 cord (4x4x8), although reading and seeing articles that say New England winters would require 3-5 cords... Considering I have Lopi Large Flush wood, how many cords would I need approximately for an average Boston winter? I have an oil-fired boiler too, but I intend to use my insert as much as possible, so that the boiler doesn't even think about firing up. And as I mentioned above, I have a 2,2k sq feet house. Thank you!
 
The experience between burning dry and wet wood is night and day. Imagine the gas in your car with 10% water mixed in. Your car would run horribly. That said, everybody burns less than ideal wood their first year. You just need to beat the frustration factor.

Strategies for this are pallet wood which can be had for free. Slab wood which is cheap and fast drying, but harder to find, and compressed sawdust bricks which can be expensive. You may be able to find kiln dried wood. This may or may not be dry enough depending on the seller.

You may want to build a solar kiln to quick dry your wood.

So how many cords should you buy?

10.


Realistically, you’re going to get less heat out of your wood since it’ll be wet. It may be so wet that burning becomes a frustrating mess with wood that refuses to light and a chimney that needs frequent cleaning. You may end up burning very little this year.

You have a big house. 4 to 5 cords of perfect wood burnt would not be out of the question.

The other 5 will give you a chance at good wood for next year. Some woods, such as oak take 3 years to season. That still won’t be ready by next year, but will be much closer than the wood you burn this year.

The important thing is to not let the frustration beat you. My first year I bought some oak from a coworker who had taken a tree down. Burning was a frustrating mess. Luckily I found a place trying to get rid of lots of pallets. That got me through my first year.
 
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One cord of firewood may have 19,000,000 btu of energy in it depending on the species of wood. Heating oil is 138,500 btu/gal. That cord of firewood would be worth 137 gallons of oil.

Your records of fuel burnt last year (it was a warm winter. But it’s the only record you have) can give you an approximate cords of firewood that you’ll burn.
 
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This is awesome, thank you very much @EatenByLimestone, I very much appreciate all the data and thorough explanation, it's very very helpful !
 
Welcome to the forum- Lots of informed burners here. I think you'll be happy with the inserts you are talking about. Lopi historically makes good stoves. The Montpelier from VC is a very decorative insert too with a nice viewing area. Agree with everyone about the wood, it is the most important factor, with good dry seasoned wood any insert will burn and heat great, with unseasoned wood, none will. Good luck with the install, the best time to get a stove put in is whenever you can. Stay warm...
 
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A big difference between the two is that the Lopi provides the user with better air control. The Montpelier and it's sister, the Quadrafire Expedition II, has automatic air regulation. Also, the damper on the Lopi Evergreen is a bypass damper. This is to facilitate easier starting and less chance of smoke spillage on reloads. It's not for regulating the draft or the fire. Once the fire has started burning well, the bypass is closed.