Tricky pine tree cut.

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Robbie

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jul 5, 2006
610
East Tennessee- Great Smoky Mountains.
I am going to have to drop a yellow pine pretty soon. The only problem is this pine is leaning very bad (not towards anything but yard).

Just wondered if anyone knew of any tricks other than rope tie off or something like this. I even considered using a long pole saw. When I say leaning, I mean it's leaning so much that I know it's going to split out as soon as I start the cut or somewhere there after.

The entire weight of this tree will be relieved when I make this first cut, notching would not help at all because it's leaning so far, much more than this.......... / ......I would say 2 times more.


I even thought about wrapping the trunk with rope several feet above my cut just so it won't split out, and then it would just fall very fast.


Robbie
 
Diameter of cut is at least 12 inch. It is leaning so bad I know it's going to pop as soon as I get an inch or so down into the tree.

I really am considering using a bow saw strapped to a long pole because I know the weight of this big pine will split it out.


I am used to cutting leaning trees, but never one that I know will drop almost instantly as soon as a relief cut is made.

Not sure about the bore cut. I would need to use a ladder to cut from the top down, and really don't feel comfortable doing this.

Safety is utmost importance here...........


Robbie
 
I just cut a tree like that today. It was a dead standing elm. I notched about 2 inches into the base, then came in behind it with a cut. Got part way through and it snapped and went down. With 12" base, you should be able to do a small notch then come in behind it. The tree I cut was damn near 90 degrees, 75 percent of it was leaning at a 90. Its the cut at the back that will do the tree in, the notch shouldn't allow it to fall if its not too deep.
 
Robbie,

I could give a base of ideas but i think its best to post pictures of the tree before taking any advise , I would hate more than anything for your to get the nerve up to cut this tree on advise given here and the tree "barber chairs" on you and you get hurt and or killed.

Post pictures please brother.
 
Roospike said:
Robbie,

I could give a base of ideas but i think its best to post pictures of the tree before taking any advise , I would hate more than anything for your to get the nerve up to cut this tree on advise given here and the tree "barber chairs" on you and you get hurt and or killed.

Post pictures please brother.
Click to expand...
I agree and also if you have neverbore cut a tree it is VERY DANGEROUS!
Lets see a picture of it.
 
Dylan said:
What's so bad about a tree splitting out??
Click to expand...

"Shingeling" snaps the top layers up at a tremendous force when they break loose. The answer to it is to make the cut on the backside of the leaner upward instead of straight in or downward. That way when the top layer pops it doesn't drive the saw through your forehead.

The second that top layer pops you let go of the saw, haul ass and re-assess what needs to be done next. Usually it is that you do it all over again with the next layer or the tree is on the ground already but with a high tension layer on the bottom. In that case you cut through the top of the next layer, it pops less because the major weight is on the ground and you are done with it.
 
Dylan said:
What's so bad about a tree splitting out??
Click to expand...
Whats so bad? 2 people I know who have been hit by barber chaired trees one we water at xmas time cause hes dead. And the other one has a plate in his fore head one in his jaw and flase teeth. I'd say thire a little dangerous to cut if you don't know what you are doing.
 
What happens at a barber's shop that resembles this force when cutting a tree? Or is it just a slang term? Why can't you stand off to the side of the tree away from the pressure point and just have the saw in the danger zone.
 
How about a few good whacks with an ax on the side opposite the leaning (the high side). If it's that bad, it won't take much, your further away than with a saw, and when it starts to go, get away and let it go. KD
 
kd460 said:
How about a few good whacks with an ax on the side opposite the leaning (the high side). If it's that bad, it won't take much, your further away than with a saw, and when it starts to go, get away and let it go. KD
Click to expand...

Exactly. Trees that scare you don't kill you. The ones that don't scare you kill you.
 
You can bore in the middle and work backwards. As long as you are vigilant and ready to run and know what you're in for when it goes, you should be fine. Clear all the area for an easy escape route. You should wrap a tow chain around the trunk just above the cut.
 
This tree is 12" in diameter? Is it rotted or solid?

If the tree is solid and 12" in diameter the proper way to fall it is to make an open face notch then bore straight through the tree behind your notch 1.5" (hinge thickness) and cut straight out the back. If the tree is leaning hard as stated that is how you avoid a barber chair.

For anyone unfamiliar with the term barber chair, that is when a tree splits with the grain and when this happens you lose all
control.

Just an observation, with hazardous trees if you have to ask the proper way to do it you probably shouldn't be doing it yourself.
They way to safely learn is to have someone who is experienced show you how to do it properly.

Be Safe and Merry Christmas to All!!!

Craig
 
Thanks guys, I am familiar with the barber deal.

I realize the tree could snap and could take my head off. This is a hard one.

I can't provide a pic, but this link below is almost exactly what my tree looks like (except no other trees around and much more thicker at top).

http://www.regionalinfo-alert.org/Pictures/01-29-06_green_treefall1.jpg

Picture/link was from this link/web site,

http://www.regionalinfo-alert.org/archives.php

I have cut lots of leaning trees in the past years, but never one leaning this bad. The good thing is it matters not where it falls, it's just that I feel it's going to pop at the least little cut on the back side.

Maybe the center cut back would be best.

I figured many heads thinking on this would be better than just mine.

I appreciate all the comments.


Robbie
 
Dylan said:
earthharvester said:
... people I know who have been hit by barber chaired trees one we water at xmas time cause hes dead. I'd say thire a little dangerous to cut if you don't know what you are doing.
Click to expand...

It DOES sound dangerous, but if you don't mind me asking, could you explain what you mean by watering someone at xmas time?? Is it some sort of ritual??
Click to expand...
It means we water the flowers that are planted at his head stone.
 
MALogger said:
This tree is 12" in diameter? Is it rotted or solid?

If the tree is solid and 12" in diameter the proper way to fall it is to make an open face notch then bore straight through the tree behind your notch 1.5" (hinge thickness) and cut straight out the back. If the tree is leaning hard as stated that is how you avoid a barber chair.

For anyone unfamiliar with the term barber chair, that is when a tree splits with the grain and when this happens you lose all
control.

Just an observation, with hazardous trees if you have to ask the proper way to do it you probably shouldn't be doing it yourself.
They way to safely learn is to have someone who is experienced show you how to do it properly.

Be Safe and Merry Christmas to All!!!

Craig
Click to expand...
This is one of the safest ways to go
 
Robbie You recieved the best advice work within your abilities. If you haVE DOUBTS then get professional help. I think the risk are not worth the gamble.

I mean a the pros here advised the same. Fortunately you were smart enought to post first. Bad things happen so quick you will not have time to react
 
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