Ok. So in my last posts I was installing a hearth extension and a new F500 Oslo to replace my old VC Resolute (pre-epa). Well, I've finished the hearth extension (not bad for a first try) and had the sweep out to inspect my chimney. To say he was impressed was an understatement. Our chimney is 18 years old, exterior masonry with a 13x13 flue. I burned our VC 24x7 last year and all we removed was about a gallon of crud (much of which was birds nests, leaves, etc. - I had him install a cap for me while he was up there). As we discussed my previous plans to direct connect (and yes, he too was very impressed with the vortex-like draft my chimney produces) he encouraged me to do a full line as others have done here. He pointed me to full kits on Ebay which were much cheaper than what I was quoted from local hearth dealer. So I'm MUCH more comfortable biting the bullet now and doing it.
The only part we disagreed on - was whether to ovalize or not. I have a 6' piece of SS flex (Hart's Hearth) that I used with the VC. I ovalized about 4' to fit through the damper and would like to not throw it away. Total height T to cap is 23' and change so using the 6' would save me a bit plus the major effort it took me to get the pipe ovalized Which of the three choices would you guys recommend:
1. Buy 20' of M-Flex or Flex King and a collar to join with my existing ovalized section.
2. Buy 25' of above and ovalize the lower portion, rerounding to mate with the T
3. Buy 25' of above and cut out the damper to allow a straight shot
I'm assuming that a poly brush (versus metal) would make it "easier" to get through the ovalized section.
Oh and, anybody in northern VA that might want to give a fellow burner a hand with the install? I would be more than willing to spring for beer and pizza.
The only part we disagreed on - was whether to ovalize or not. I have a 6' piece of SS flex (Hart's Hearth) that I used with the VC. I ovalized about 4' to fit through the damper and would like to not throw it away. Total height T to cap is 23' and change so using the 6' would save me a bit plus the major effort it took me to get the pipe ovalized Which of the three choices would you guys recommend:
1. Buy 20' of M-Flex or Flex King and a collar to join with my existing ovalized section.
2. Buy 25' of above and ovalize the lower portion, rerounding to mate with the T
3. Buy 25' of above and cut out the damper to allow a straight shot
I'm assuming that a poly brush (versus metal) would make it "easier" to get through the ovalized section.
Oh and, anybody in northern VA that might want to give a fellow burner a hand with the install? I would be more than willing to spring for beer and pizza.