Stove temp is funky...input needed!!!
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If I may chime in I am by no means an expert on this but did notice in your picture your thermometer was on your door . I just went and checked my temps on my stove top was 300 degrees MORE than my door where you had your therm. top 630 on door 300. Mike
Lord of the Flames said:
This makes sense. So the temps that I have been getting on my door from the beginning are adequate?
davenorthshorema said:
I thought i've read on other threads here that folks with those type of units got 400-600F temps on the front. What does the MFR say the temp on the front should be??. Still doesn't splain the high temps achieved earlier this season....nor the fact that you are not able to warm the room like you did.
woodconvert said:
Well, for a moment I thought the cold weather proved that this stove was underpowered for my space. I have not found any material in the manual regarding temperatures I should run this stove. Please chime in if anyone has similar. Regency I1200 insert.
I was able to get the 450 degree with little ease too. I was not even tending to the stove obsessively like i am know. BTW. how does my wood stack up...does it look dry enough?
About...well, 40 minutes or so ago I moved my thermometer from the top right of my stove to the door. The temp reads the same.
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woodconvert said:About...well, 40 minutes or so ago I moved my thermometer from the top right of my stove to the door. The temp reads the same.
(@*&%$)(&!@
Please don't ask me to remove the surround...to relocate my thermometer. I have tried it in different places but have lower readings.
My outside temp is up to 30 degrees and with the southern exposed room (which is where the stove is) the sun has helped raise the temp along with the stove at 80 degrees. This is different at night... I must add, I a open and shut a quite a few times before i stoked the stove and the lever moves much better. I slammed it from open to close in hopes it will loosen and clogged burned particles just for giggles.
davenorthshorema said:woodconvert said:About...well, 40 minutes or so ago I moved my thermometer from the top right of my stove to the door. The temp reads the same.
(@*&%$)(&!@
Please don't ask me to remove the surround...to relocate my thermometer. I have tried it in different places but have lower readings.
No...just checking what the other fella said about the thermometer temp on the front being a couple hundred degrees cooler. It's not the case on my setup...not sure why it would be on yours.
Well, i'm out of help I think. Hopefully someone with the same setup as you have will come along. Sorry Dave.
woodconvert said:davenorthshorema said:woodconvert said:About...well, 40 minutes or so ago I moved my thermometer from the top right of my stove to the door. The temp reads the same.
(@*&%$)(&!@
Please don't ask me to remove the surround...to relocate my thermometer. I have tried it in different places but have lower readings.
No...just checking what the other fella said about the thermometer temp on the front being a couple hundred degrees cooler. It's not the case on my setup...not sure why it would be on yours.
Well, i'm out of help I think. Hopefully someone with the same setup as you have will come along. Sorry Dave.
Hey man,
I really do appreciate your time and efforts. She seems to be running fine. I have some secondary with the air closed half. the house is 80 with the blower on high. she's running at 350 at the door (top center)
Could your therm be toast?
I know you don't want to move your therm but.....by placing the therm on the door you have no idea what the actual temp up the pipe is. If you get some actual readings off your pipe, you can then move the therm to the door and compare readings. The door may be 100 degrees hotter or 100 degrees cooler. I guess what I'm saying is that, from what the folks here suggest, and my own 2 cents, the pipe reading is important and will give you a true baseline temp reading. If, as much as you hate to, you move your therm, do not just sit it next to or against the pipe, attach it onto the pipe using that hair thin wire that comes with the therm. I have mine attached that way. If I put a dial type, 400 degree therm right next to it, touching the pipe and the insert top I get a 50 - 100 degree temp diff. If I put the dial therm only on the pipe, not resting the end on the insert top, the 2 therms read the same.
You said at the beginning that it took you 2 hours to reach 350. You should hit that in 15 to 20 minutes if not less. Again, this may be due to therm placement.
You asked about the possibility of your secondary air inlet being clogged. I looked at your inserts manual and saw no mention of a secondary air inlet, but i have no experience with this insert so there may be one.
I just read that your running fine at the moment.
I do believe your issue, as I do my issue, is outside temp related. My insert seems harder to run now that the outside air is 20 degrees or lower. Anything above and the insert just goes without a hitch and very little babysitting. It's cold outside, my house is cool to cold in the morning. It just takes time to heat everything up and once that is done, the stove runs fine.
Anyway, good luck
Mr_Pither
I know you don't want to move your therm but.....by placing the therm on the door you have no idea what the actual temp up the pipe is. If you get some actual readings off your pipe, you can then move the therm to the door and compare readings. The door may be 100 degrees hotter or 100 degrees cooler. I guess what I'm saying is that, from what the folks here suggest, and my own 2 cents, the pipe reading is important and will give you a true baseline temp reading. If, as much as you hate to, you move your therm, do not just sit it next to or against the pipe, attach it onto the pipe using that hair thin wire that comes with the therm. I have mine attached that way. If I put a dial type, 400 degree therm right next to it, touching the pipe and the insert top I get a 50 - 100 degree temp diff. If I put the dial therm only on the pipe, not resting the end on the insert top, the 2 therms read the same.
You said at the beginning that it took you 2 hours to reach 350. You should hit that in 15 to 20 minutes if not less. Again, this may be due to therm placement.
You asked about the possibility of your secondary air inlet being clogged. I looked at your inserts manual and saw no mention of a secondary air inlet, but i have no experience with this insert so there may be one.
I just read that your running fine at the moment.
I do believe your issue, as I do my issue, is outside temp related. My insert seems harder to run now that the outside air is 20 degrees or lower. Anything above and the insert just goes without a hitch and very little babysitting. It's cold outside, my house is cool to cold in the morning. It just takes time to heat everything up and once that is done, the stove runs fine.
Anyway, good luck
Mr_Pither
I think you got the temp up when the in-laws were there because you weren't trying. Now you are trying things are going wrong. Also, as I said in my last post primary air comes in just above the door. This cools the door. If I had my primary fully open the top of the door would never reach 400F. Find somewhere else to measure the temp. It's only when I close the primary nearly all the way that things really start to heat up.davenorthshorema said:
Dave if you have not checked it yet look at the baffle plates above the secondary burn tubes and make sure they are pushed against the back of the stove and pushed to the sides. There should be a small 1/8" to 1/4" gap between them. (see illustration on page 16 of this pdf link (broken link removed to http://www.regency-fire.com/TechDocuments/Manuals/918-665.pdf)). The gap needs to be even front to back. I found this to be a problem with my stove tonight after not being able to get the fire running. I was not able to get my stove over 300 deg. because the baffles had been moved a tiny bit during the loading process. Once I corrected it (after a lot of head scratching) I'm running like a champ again.
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