What can I use to seal my pipe joints that will handle the heat? Also, is there an adhesive for the rope gasket on the door?
Stove Pipe Joints Leaking
- Thread starter KyleK
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Normally stove pipe joints are not sealed. Is this to correct a problem?
High temp RTV works well for stove door gaskets. If not available Rutland gasket cement will do.
rutland.com
High temp RTV works well for stove door gaskets. If not available Rutland gasket cement will do.
Stove Gasket Cement
RUTLAND Stove Gasket Cement adheres any fiberglass gasket to most any metal and fixes small cracks, pinholes, and leaks in a cast iron stove.
rutland.com
Trevor Tahclep
Feeling the Heat
Yeah, they're leaking smokeNormally stove pipe joints are not sealed. Is this to correct a problem?
High temp RTV works well for stove door gaskets. If not available Rutland gasket cement will do.
Stove Gasket Cement
RUTLAND Stove Gasket Cement adheres any fiberglass gasket to most any metal and fixes small cracks, pinholes, and leaks in a cast iron stove.
Then you need to address the lack of draft.
A stove pipe should, if it leaks, generally suck in air, not leak smoke.
Of course it's still good to address the leaks because they would/should cool down your flue gases which could result in creosote deposits.
So, can you show pictures of your stove pipe and set up?
Is it all one brand?
How tall is the flue from stove top to chimney cap?
What stove do you use?
A stove pipe should, if it leaks, generally suck in air, not leak smoke.
Of course it's still good to address the leaks because they would/should cool down your flue gases which could result in creosote deposits.
So, can you show pictures of your stove pipe and set up?
Is it all one brand?
How tall is the flue from stove top to chimney cap?
What stove do you use?
Trevor Tahclep
Feeling the Heat
This is not normal be it single or double wall stove pipe, if the pipes are in good condition without damage of any kind and made for wood burning appliances exhausting in a approved healthy functional chimney there should be no smoke. If you had a down draft problem of some kind it would normally exit via the stove door !
Are these pipe sections all of the same model/ brand/manufacturer ?
This smoke phenomenon may be an indicator of a serious underlying problem with your chimney not drawing properly which really needs to be addressed first for your safety, if not already done get it cleaned and inspected by a certified sweep or technician to ensure it is 100% operational.
Was this installation done by a professional ?
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Tell us more about the flue installation in detail. The problem is likely elsewhere with the smoke leakage as a symptom. The most common issue is a cap screen getting plugged, but it can be as odd as a nest in the chimney pipe.
The horizontal piece going out is 2ft double wall going to a 90° elbow and a 4ft stack. It's a homemade 3/8 double wall stove. The flue is about 16in from the stove top. Most of the leaks come out the swivel elbows and the single-double wall joint connections.
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I had it apart to give it it's 2 year sweep, and it really wasn't that bad, but after putting it back together it leaked really bad this time.
Take the stack robber out of the system and things should behave better. They are creosote machines. Draft should improve with its removal.
Also, was any exhaust system running in the house, like a dryer, kitchen or bath fan, etc.? Were any windows or attic doors open upstairs?
Also, was any exhaust system running in the house, like a dryer, kitchen or bath fan, etc.? Were any windows or attic doors open upstairs?
Ok. How do I get heat inside without it just going out the stack? My grandpa had a magic heat on his and never had an issue. Doesn't the tube scraper clean the creosote?
The stove is the source of heat, not the flue. However, if the wood is not fully seasoned, then the heat output is going to be a lot less. If this is an old stove without a baffle or secondary burn, it's going to be pretty inefficient. If the basement walls are uninsulated then about 1/3d of the heat is heading outdoors. Add all of these together and it's an uphill battle.
Trevor Tahclep
Feeling the Heat
How tall outside?
4 ft only? Not enough draft. Either because gases cool to much and/or not enough flue height.
But adding a baffle might further increase the need for draft.
On the other hand if it leaks after you took it apart, you may have applied too much force and bent things a bit... Creating leaks.
With enough draft you'd be creating creosote (because cool air being sucked into), and with insufficient draft you'd get smoke out. Either way, I think it's better to upgrade stove and pipe as suggested above.
Thanks for the douchedick response. I probably wouldn't have asked if I knew everything like you do.
Wisco Shepherd
Minister of Fire
You are in the right place to be irritated with that response not much constructive there. So far you have been really amenable to the good suggestions previous guys have had keep working with them and you will find your setup Burns better.
Do you check the moisture content of your wood? How long has it been split and stacked before burning?
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