Stihl 290 not oiling properly?

[shortys7777]

My brother got me a uses 290 a few months back. Starts up and runs but after cutting through some bigger logs today I checked the fuel and oil and the fuel was 3/4 empty while the oil was around 1/2. I cleaned the bar like crazy when I got it and it was spitting oil when I cut some dead pine and oak in April. Didn't look to see if I was still spitting steady tonight. I'm sure I could use a good sharp chain seeing this is the one as is that was on the saw. Uploaded a few pics for reference. Burnt chain? Any other ideas or what I can look at?

 

[Jazzberry]

That chain is about as bad as it gets. Looks like someone was cutting rocks. Still has meat on it though. I would take it to a place that sharpens chains if I was you. Easy job with a grinder or dremel to repair it if its not been overheated. If its spitting oil its doing the job but the chain won't cut anything till you get it repaired. Its likely burnt if you have been cutting with that chain. You lose temper when it gets heated and then it won't hold an edge. Your sharpener will let you know if its gone.

 

[TedyOH]

Yeah....the rakers are all out of whack...the build up of gunk on top of the teeth is never good thing to see either....that chain needs serious work....plus I think that's a safety chain.....id go buy a new single raker chain.

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[xman23]

Thats about the amount of chain oil I use per tank of gas. And I have the oil feed wide open.

I can touch up a good chain with a hand round file. I never let it get very dull. But when they get real bad i can't fix it, I replace them.

I was looking at the picture and couldn't tell if the chain was on backwards. I guess not, but my grandson did it on his first saw, and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't cut.

 

[shortys7777]

Thanks for the input. I knew it was dull just didn't realize how dull. It cut through that wood behind it but I assume with a properly sharpened chain it'll go through much smoother. I'll be bringing it tomorrow.

 

[TedyOH]

I think Stihl has to sell their "non pro" saws with a safety chain on it....so thats probably the original....also the saw "dust" should look nothing like dust....your chips should look like hamster (or any pet rodent) beding.

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[4fire]

It's supposed to run out of gas before it runs out of bar oil. If the oil reservoir ran out first, people would smoke their chains the first day.

 

[zrock]

Thats about the amount of chain oil I use per tank of gas. And I have the oil feed wide open.

I can touch up a good chain with a hand round file. I never let it get very dull. But when they get real bad i can't fix it, I replace them.

I was looking at the picture and couldn't tell if the chain was on backwards. I guess not, but my grandson did it on his first saw, and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't cut.

Ya hard to tell bet does look like its backwards

 

[Jazzberry]

Couldn't get the chain looking that bad if it was on backwards. Im surprised the bar doesn't have burn marks on it. Must have been used very badly for a short time.

 

[shortys7777]

This is the wood I cut up with it. Taking the chain after work to a place up the street. All the other pieces need to be cut on site for me to lift and fit in my car. It didn't take too long to cut so I'm exited to see how it cuts with a sharp chain.

 

[Jazzberry]

I would buy another chain to use while you wait for them to finish sharpening. Ask for a full skip and I think you will be much more happy.

 

[Cast Iron]

Learn to hand sharpen a chain.
Get the right hand sharpening tool like Stihl or Husky the do the edge and raker in each pass.
No need for electric tools that in the wrong hands will ( not can) ruin the chain.

Pull the bar off, clean and file it ( get directions for filing a bar).
Go to your fav dentist for one of the dental tools that they throw out.
Use the dental pick to clean the oil hole in the chainsaw then mix oil with paint thinner poured thru the oil tank.
Clean the holes for the oil in the bar.
Use thinner chain oil with the bar off, engine on. If no oil flows then bring it to a pro dealer.
Done.
P.S. No skip chain for novices. None. And a so called "safety chain" will cut IF sharp and rakers are correct.
No need for any bar over 20" unless a pro in the NW or West. What's this with a 36" bar ? Who wants or need to sharpen that ?
Done.

 

[Jazzberry]

If the 36" you are referring to was in my sig, it was a typo. (fixed it) That came from a partially deleted ms 360 that I sold after getting the Dolmar. But I understand your feeling about sharpening a chain over 20" with a hand file. You would crap your pants if you had to sharpen my 42" and 60" chains by hand lol. I guess I qualify for long bars cause I am from the west lol.
.

 

[xman23]

This is the wood I cut up with it. Taking the chain after work to a place up the street. All the other pieces need to be cut on site for me to lift and fit in my car. It didn't take too long to cut so I'm exited to see how it cuts with a sharp chain. View attachment 227246

I'd start with a new chain. Then you can compare your sharpen chain to it.

 

[salecker]

That chain doesn't look near as bad as some i get on dead saws.
But you should learn to hand sharpen,it is the quickest way to find power in your saw if you do it right.
If you don't want to learn then you should have a number of chains so you can change the chain as soon as it starts to get dull.Running a dull chain is the quickest way to kill your saw. That is the reason for all the bad chains on dead saws.
There are a few sharpening aids that will help,like a timberline and a few others

 

[shortys7777]

Got the chains done. gave everything a good cleaning and the saw is cutting so much better. I do plan on sharpening my own from now on. I know there are a few threads about what sharpener to get. I'll have to dig into those soon and make my decision. I know my local stihl place had the 2n1 and a select file kit for each size chain. May choose between those two as its only a few minutes from my house.

 

[Cast Iron]

If the 36" you are referring to was in my sig, it was a typo. (fixed it) That came from a partially deleted ms 360 that I sold after getting the Dolmar. But I understand your feeling about sharpening a chain over 20" with a hand file. You would crap your pants if you had to sharpen my 42" and 60" chains by hand lol. I guess I qualify for long bars cause I am from the west lol.
.

Correct. Don't think I or any of my cronys in N.E. could even pick up a 60" bar, never mind a 42" bar. Never saw one anywhere here.
Guess it all depends.....

 

[Jazzberry]

Correct. Don't think I or any of my cronys in N.E. could even pick up a 60" bar, never mind a 42" bar. Never saw one anywhere here.
Guess it all depends.....

It takes a 42" bar to run a 36" chainsaw mill. I bet you would be surprised how many 42" bars are up your way. Not as many 60 inches but there would be a few of them also. Also I would wager most have a Dremel in their toolbox.

 

[bholler]

Learn to hand sharpen a chain.
Get the right hand sharpening tool like Stihl or Husky the do the edge and raker in each pass.
No need for electric tools that in the wrong hands will ( not can) ruin the chain.

Pull the bar off, clean and file it ( get directions for filing a bar).
Go to your fav dentist for one of the dental tools that they throw out.
Use the dental pick to clean the oil hole in the chainsaw then mix oil with paint thinner poured thru the oil tank.
Clean the holes for the oil in the bar.
Use thinner chain oil with the bar off, engine on. If no oil flows then bring it to a pro dealer.
Done.
P.S. No skip chain for novices. None. And a so called "safety chain" will cut IF sharp and rakers are correct.
No need for any bar over 20" unless a pro in the NW or West. What's this with a 36" bar ? Who wants or need to sharpen that ?
Done.

I use a dremel on all of my chains and have yet to ruin one with it. Yes i am sure i take more material off than i need to and that obviously shortens the life of the chain. But the ammount of time it saves me more than pays for that lose of chain life.

And yes safety chains will cut but not near as fast. I threw away the one that came with my new stihl after using it once. My time is valuable and i am not wasting it using slow cutting chains or hand filing for that matter.

 

[Cast Iron]

Wager on.

 

[woodhog73]

I think Stihl has to sell their "non pro" saws with a safety chain on it....so thats probably the original....also the saw "dust" should look nothing like dust....your chips should look like hamster (or any pet rodent) beding.

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Any 55cc saw or smaller regardless of pro vs homeowner must come with safety chain in the US

 

[Cast Iron]

Never have used or will any kind of "safety chain". You can buy a standard Stihl yellow non safety chain or Husky when you buy a saw.
The reality is that you cut slower and therefore it is more dangerous with the so called safety chain that only has engineered rakers to maybe prevent kickback. But kickback is not the only danger with chainsaws. Most danger is the user.
The excess rakers in safety chains make sharpening tedious.
Frankly, if you need a safety chain, should you really be using a chainsaw ?
And no, top handled pro tree saws like the older Stihl 009 did NOT come with safety chain. It is not useful for tree work. Our bar for the 009 is 16" with a 12" option..
P.S. Get a Pferd, or Stihl 2in1 rig. Dremels are only good for trimming your toenails.