I’ve been planning on using a piece of 1/8” steel for floor protection. I have found a couple that are purpose made as floor protection but are too small for what I’m doing. So I was just going to buy a piece from a steel supplier. The manual only states “non-combustible, type 1” but the placard on the stove adds “UL APPROVED...TESTED IN ACCORDANCE WITH UL 1482”. Does that mean I have to buy one with the ul listing or is steel on a list of ul approved materials?
Steel Plate Floor Protection
- Thread starter jbarber
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What stove are you installing?
I believe UL 1482 is in reference to the stove testing, not the floor protector. Steel plate will work as a type 1 floor protector, just make sure it meets the minimum dimensions according to the stove manual.
I believe UL 1482 is in reference to the stove testing, not the floor protector. Steel plate will work as a type 1 floor protector, just make sure it meets the minimum dimensions according to the stove manual.
It’s an Amish built cookstove. The plate will be more than what is required. A 54”x48” is the largest pre made one I could find and would require taking some liberties with the wording to work. I want it to exceed the minimum requirements not cheat them.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
If it's an unlisted appliance and you want it done right, you are not going to get away with dropping a sheet of anything down and calling it good, unless the floor beneath is a concrete slab.
You can still have the steel on top, but it needs air and masonry underneath it. I think minimum height for that is 4".
You can still have the steel on top, but it needs air and masonry underneath it. I think minimum height for that is 4".
But it has a placard and UL listing, right? If so the manual will tell you everything you need to know about floor protection.
If it's unlisted, then yeah you basically have to put it on a slab or on a 4" high ventilated masonry pad.
Yeah it’s ul listed. I quoted the manual and the placard in the opening post.
Ok then. Type 1 floor protector just means it is noncombustible (I.e. "ember protection"). Type 2 is insulated.
The protector itself doesn't have to be UL listed, but it has to conform to the stove manual in order for the stove to retain it's UL listing. So, if the manual calls for a type 1 floor protector of A by B dimensions, a A x B steel plate meets that requirement. It's not cheating.
The protector itself doesn't have to be UL listed, but it has to conform to the stove manual in order for the stove to retain it's UL listing. So, if the manual calls for a type 1 floor protector of A by B dimensions, a A x B steel plate meets that requirement. It's not cheating.
This is for the Kitchen Queen 480, I think. If so, an oversized 1/8" steel plate will work ok for the floor protector. So would a hemmed 24 ga plate. The 1/8" plate could get a quick hit on the up-facing edge with a file or grinder to radius/chamfer the edge a little.
this is for a Heco 420. I had a Kitchen Queen Grand Comfort but I returned it. The cheating part was in reference to the width of the plate
Caw
Minister of Fire
I know you don't need one but making a type 2 protector is actually very easy if you want extra protection. I created my own low profile type 2 protector by using a steel Ember King (just a fancy type 1 powdered steel sheet...your sheet of steel will work) on top of a piece of Micore 300. The steel gives me the ember protection and the Micore adds an R value of 1.05 or so to the area. You can cut the Micore with a jig saw to match whatever shape your steel will be and a full sheet (8' x 4') only costs about $30 at Kamco. I spray painted the edges of the Micore with high temp paint to match the steel. I think the steel would distribute the weight across the Micore if you're putting the stove directly on it versus an extension like mine but it's something to look at.
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As part of stove upgrade this summer, I am planning to add an outside air intake to my Summit Classic. While I am at it, I am thinking about replacing my homemade floor protection (2x4 frame, plywood, cement board, and tile) with something not so 'clunky'. Flat steel or aluminum came to mind. We have a place here in Tucson called Industrial Metal Supply; they have locations throughout the SW. I can buy a 1/8" sheet of 6061-T6 aluminum mill-finish diamond plate for $230 (7/28/22) cut-to-fit 48" x 53". It has an attractive pattern - see attached, and only weighs ~ 30lbs. Any objections to the use of aluminum instead of steel? With or without cement board underneath?
The Summit needs ember protection only. The sheet of aluminum would do that fine. Consider putting a 1" radius on the front corners for a more finished look and less sharp-edged.
Thanks for your quick reply. Good idea on the relaxed corners. I will do it. Great website and contributors
All things being equal, would you go with steel or aluminum hearth floor protection. Steel is heavier and harder to cut, but it is a bit cheaper and more durable. Also, do you recommend 1/8”, 3/16”, or 1/4” thickness? And, from a purely aesthetic perspective, would you use flat metal or diamond finish? I will be painting either option using POR-15 flat black engine paint.
1/8" plate steel is fine. It could even be 24 ga sheet metal and qualify. Hearths get dusty and dirty with ash. I would think about cleanability which would lead me to the flat rather than the diamond plate surface. And for this reason, I would use a satin black because it cleans better. Or a medium grey if you really want to hide the ash.
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
I’d do steel for the price and that is what commercially bought ember protection hearth pads are made of. For thickness of material, I’d refer to stove manual to see if they specify.
Ok, bought a piece of 11ga flat steel, rounded the leading corners and cut a 4"+/- hole in the steel where the air intake comes through. Now, for the paint... What do you guys and gals think I should do for paint? I am looking at using Stove Bright high-temperature flat black or satin, but I am open to other options. Pete, at ForrestPaint (Stove Bright), is a wealth of information. Highly recommend you give him a call if you have any questions. The POR-15 was a HUGE mistake. Don't ask... begreen suggested stain black or medium grey to hide ash. Thoughts?
Stove Brite is good. What it will need is a durable, scratch-resistant finish that is very easy to clean. Paint will be somewhat vulnerable because Stove paints harden as they bake in and this metal will never get that hot. Powder coating would be good. Hot blackening is another option.
Installed 1/8" flat steel with rounded corners and painted using Stove-Brite charcoal colored paint. Turned out great 
I even cut the hole in the flat steel for the air intake in the right place. Measure twice, cut once... Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions. Still early days, but I am seeing a HUGE reduction in the amount of wood I am burning. With the outside air intake, I am not having to constantly heat room air to replace warm air going out the stove pipe. My best guess is a 50% reduction in wood consumption. And the best part is, as the stove burns down overnight, the house stays warm through the night because I am not losing warm air out the stove pipe. I was nervous about cutting a hole in a perfectly good floor, but in hindsight, it was one of the best decisions I have made in recent history.
I even cut the hole in the flat steel for the air intake in the right place. Measure twice, cut once... Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions. Still early days, but I am seeing a HUGE reduction in the amount of wood I am burning. With the outside air intake, I am not having to constantly heat room air to replace warm air going out the stove pipe. My best guess is a 50% reduction in wood consumption. And the best part is, as the stove burns down overnight, the house stays warm through the night because I am not losing warm air out the stove pipe. I was nervous about cutting a hole in a perfectly good floor, but in hindsight, it was one of the best decisions I have made in recent history.
Hi J... My wife and I have been wracking our brains trying to decide on a cook stove or just a heating stove... Main concern was if grid went down for extended time we could at least cook , and I think even tho not as effective heating as a regular heating stove, we still could stay warm...Normal lows around mid to upper 20's. I see you had a Heco 420 which is what we've sorta narrowed down to....Can you give some thoughts of pros / cons on the stove? . We'd certainly appreciate it....PS...May I ask why you returned the KQ? We were looking at those and pioneer princess..
Is an oven necessary? We have gone 5 and 6 days with no power and it was not an issue without the oven. If the oven is not required, then any stove that has a good cooktop will do. So will a Coleman 2 burner camp stove in a pinch.
If outages were just a weather related issue we probably wouldn't bother with wood stove as we have a propane gas log fireplace and 3k solar backup... We've had issues around with substations being shot out and other issues human related.. One of our relatives works for a contractor that installs/repairs grid systems for many electrical power producers.... Without saying a lot over the internet,,as was told to us,, there are "people" wanting to outdate the coal fired plants and pushing the hydro systems as bad too......... Just saying ,. trying not sound so pessimistic,,,in case things linger for lengthy amount of time... would like to be totally independent..
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