Split size and starting the fire

[Wallace]

So my chimney goes in on Friday and I plan on doing my break-in fires on Saturday. I have about a cord of oak that I split and stacked. The splits vary in size. Most 18" long but anywhere from 3" to 6-7" wide. Plus I have a bunch on 2" branches that are 12" long. Are the 6-7" splits ok or are they a little big? I still have my buddy's splitter so I can split them smaller if needed. Also, I have a big pile of pitch pine chips that I hacked off of an old ponderosa pine stump. Was gonna use a few of those chips as my fire starter. That sound ok?

 

[CTYank]

What I find works best: load enough for summat (spell-checker accepted that!) shorter than normal burn cycle similar to:
largest first, N_S, full course,
couple smaller quick-lighting splits NE-SW, spaced ~1", w/starter-stuff between them, near the door,
small kindling NW-SE across the previous, with the smallest near the door.

Leave gaps ~.5" between all for airflow. Light starter-stuff and leave door cracked until stove & flue are warmed up.

This is "top-down" fire-starting, and can reduce startup smoke to nil.

I'd be busy scrounging suitable kindling (not oak) to simplify this. Think pine/spruce/poplar, you get the picture; right now, look for pre-dried.

 

[soupy1957]

"Are the 6-7†splits ok or are they a little big?"

Depends on a couple of factors:

1. How big is your stove?
2. How many logs do you want to burn at one time?


Assuming your stove is large enough to handle good size chunks of wood, and further assuming that you understand that the startup fire should be done with smaller kindling pieces so that you build up a good base of ash first, before introducing the big pieces,.......you're good.

-Soupy1957

 

[NordicSplitter]

Pallet wood is great for kindling. Cut it up to any size you want. Some small and some a little larger. Plus they are usually free. Have fun.

 

[bogydave]

I'm not familiar with big oak splits but I found that my big 6" to 8" thick birch takes more seasoning time.
For birch: 5" spilt & smaller are dry enough with 1 year drying time but the bigger ones burn significantly better with 2 year drying time.
Knowing oak is 2 years or longer drying time, the bigger ones may take longer to be prime burners. Maybe some oak user will chime in with oak experience.
But when they are dry, I put them in the center of the load & they burn long & well. Great for long hotter overnight burns for cold winter nights.

For this time of the year in your area, burn the smaller splits this time of the year & save those big ones for the hotter, longer overnight burns in winter.
Many burn "uglies, butts & mis-shaped" wood for early season fires (shoulder season) & save the better stuff for colder weather.

I don't use pallet wood, due to possible nails (of various metals) & chemical contamination, but having a catalytic has made me cautious.
Getting kindling isn't an issue for me, (I split up a few straight grained spruce rounds 3/4" to 1" & good to go) &
I don't use much since when I start burning I have a fire 24/7 for months & even when I empty the stove I have hot coals left to restart the new load.
That pitch pine should work great as a fire starter, burns hot & fast. Some of the big dry pine cones work great as fire starters too.

Once you learn your stove & chimney system, you'll get a good idea of the burn times & heat output & what way to load it for the results you need for the weather.
Light that baby up, sit & enjoy the heat with a big elk steak & an MGD.
Have fun

 

[Wallace]

I'm not familiar with big oak splits but I found that my big 6" to 8" thick birch takes more seasoning time.
For birch: 5" spilt & smaller are dry enough with 1 year drying time but the bigger ones burn significantly better with 2 year drying time.
Knowing oak is 2 years or longer drying time, the bigger ones may take longer to be prime burners. Maybe some oak user will chime in with oak experience.
But when they are dry, I put them in the center of the load & they burn long & well. Great for long hotter overnight burns for cold winter nights.

For this time of the year in your area, burn the smaller splits this time of the year & save those big ones for the hotter, longer overnight burns in winter.
Many burn "uglies, butts & mis-shaped" wood for early season fires (shoulder season) & save the better stuff for colder weather.

I don't use pallet wood, due to possible nails (of various metals) & chemical contamination, but having a catalytic has made me cautious.
Getting kindling isn't an issue for me, (I split up a few straight grained spruce rounds 3/4" to 1" & good to go) &
I don't use much since when I start burning I have a fire 24/7 for months & even when I empty the stove I have hot coals left to restart the new load.
That pitch pine should work great as a fire starter, burns hot & fast. Some of the big dry pine cones work great as fire starters too.

Once you learn your stove & chimney system, you'll get a good idea of the burn times & heat output & what way to load it for the results you need for the weather.
Light that baby up, sit & enjoy the heat with a big elk steak & an MGD.
Have fun

I am sure my oak is dry. It sat for over a year and through a pretty hot/dry summer(most days were 90-95). I have hundreds of 1.5" round 12" pieces of unknown wood. They are what tree nurseries use to support thier planted trees. I got a huge among of these and cut them up for kindling. It sounds like the bigger splits will be just fine as long as I have a decent bed of coals. Thanks for your help!

 

[BrowningBAR]

So my chimney goes in on Friday and I plan on doing my break-in fires on Saturday. I have about a cord of oak that I split and stacked. The splits vary in size. Most 18" long but anywhere from 3" to 6-7" wide. Plus I have a bunch on 2" branches that are 12" long. Are the 6-7" splits ok or are they a little big? I still have my buddy's splitter so I can split them smaller if needed. Also, I have a big pile of pitch pine chips that I hacked off of an old ponderosa pine stump. Was gonna use a few of those chips as my fire starter. That sound ok?

I would start smaller. It's just easier to start a fire with smaller splits. Can you start a fire with large splits? Yes, I do it often, but when you are just starting out learning a stove, large splits are a pain to get going. Once you get your fire established, then add larger splits. It is far less frustrating that way.

Also, no need to drag out the splitter. Splits split really easily with an ax once they are already split. (Felt weird typing "split" that many times... :lol: )

 

[Wallace]

What I find works best: load enough for summat (spell-checker accepted that!) shorter than normal burn cycle similar to:
largest first, N_S, full course,
couple smaller quick-lighting splits NE-SW, spaced ~1", w/starter-stuff between them, near the door,
small kindling NW-SE across the previous, with the smallest near the door.

Leave gaps ~.5" between all for airflow. Light starter-stuff and leave door cracked until stove & flue are warmed up.

This is "top-down" fire-starting, and can reduce startup smoke to nil.

I'd be busy scrounging suitable kindling (not oak) to simplify this. Think pine/spruce/poplar, you get the picture; right now, look for pre-dried.

I have a ton of kindling! It's 1.25-1.5" rounds that are cut up tree support poles. Very dry and burn quickly I am going to give the top down thing a shot. Figure I will learn to do it that way from the beginning! I also have a cord of seasoned juniper (next best thing to oak out here in AZ) being delivered next week. So between that stuff and my oak I should have some time to cut some more wood and fly out to PA week and arrow a whitetail without feeling guilty about not having cut wood at home

 

[logger]

Start w the small stuff to get temps up then throw the big ones on the established coalbed and see how they burn. I like a variety of sizes so I can tend to any heating occasion. Small stuff to get going or burn little fires in the shoulder seasons, big splits or rounds for overnighters and the workday, etc.

 

[Jags]

Okay - I am gonna go against the grain here a bit. I simply don't use the same method as many of the folks on the forum. For one, I don't use kindling.

So here it goes:
You have an oslo - pretty decent size firebox.
Your using Super Cedars as a fire starter (good)

Bring in your stove load of wood - check
Create a tunnel in the ash going N-S - check (if no ash, use one of the smaller of your splits or one of your branches to go N-S. This creates the "tunnel of love" (hey, blame BeGreen)
Stack remaining splits E-W leaning up on the branch or small split it should create /| (a tunnel going N-S) Loading the stove completely (unless you simply don't need the heat)
Drop your Super cedar in the opening of the tunnel, under wood, but towards the front of the stove.
Light it - full open air (or some report the need to crack the door). Watch - be amazed. Adjust as necessary.

If this does not work - "its your wood silly"

There - I said it. :zip:

 

[velvetfoot]

I do the same as Jags, but I use the Rutland fire starter squares (flat, easy to start).

 

[Jags]

I do the same as Jags, but I use the Rutland fire starter squares (flat, easy to start).

Well, we can't BOTH be wrong. :lol:

 

[firefighterjake]

Start small and build your way up . . . the first fire I think I only used kindling . . . from there I built up with small splits for subsequent fires.

 

[Wood Duck]

I did what firefighterjake says - start with small fires using very dry kindling. Add a few small splits next time, work your way up. I find oak is not a great wood for starting a fire. Go get some pine twigs, kindling, 2x4 cutoffs split into several pieces, etc. once you have a hot stove and some coals it is pretty easy and the oak should be fine (although I bet it will be better next year than it is this year)

Edit: I noticed you're in Arizona. The oak might be pretty darn dry.