Some help installing a new wood stove chimney

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I'm not sure. A friend has had a system very much like yours, but with 3-4' lengths of class A on order for 2 weeks now at dynamitebuys. They are backed up on orders. We hope to get a ship date later today.
 
I ordered 4'ers for my rigid chimney liner, came shrink wrapped on a pallet, each pipe in its own box. I personally would go longer lengths, less seems, easier/faster installation.
Mine had no dents, and as I said, came each pipe in its own box.
 
Hmm...looks like I also need a 12" section of duratech below the Tee for a clean out since the Tee needs to be above the bracket.
 
Not if the T goes through the bracket and you can get an end cap on it & access it. Otherwise you a 6" or 12" would help.
 
6" it is. Just spoke with dynamitebuys. They are out of 5', 4' and 3' pipe with a truck coming in this week to fill orders and have a little overflow. I hope I make this week!

Also think I will change to 4 - 4' sections instead of 5 - 3' sections. I get 1' more foot of length and will cost me $5 less.
 
BeGreen said:
Brian VT said:
BeGreen said:
The class A pipe should project into the room 6", I would plan on a 12" stub to go through the wall.
I think he'll want an 18" to go through cinder block+framed interior ?

Right Brian, good catch.
I ordered an 18" since I have the same situation. It requires a 24". The 18" only protrudes 4" into the room.
No biggie, I'll throw the 18" up top. I was (technically) 12" short anyway. I hope I can find a 24" locally so I can install this weekend.
Another after-thought...they sell black Dura-Tech for going through the wall since the 6" in the room will show. I'll just have to paint mine.
 
How deep is your wall on the inside? I suspect your T is not right up against the thimble where you are losing the space. 8" block should leave 10"-6" for after wall. So you have 4" for block to drywall depth and for coming out the outside of the T. I think the studs on my drywall are only 2" (4" just seems like too much from my memory of measuring it) sot hat leaves me 2" for the outside play.
 
I also have a 6" piece on order for the bottom of the T for cleanout. Worst case, I can steal that for another 6" on the thimble install.

I hope not, that will mess up the rest of my measurements...ugh..
 
My inside wall is 3 1/2" framing + 1/2" sheetrock. The tee has to be away from the outside wall to get my 2"+ clearance between the chimney and the outside wall. Your results may vary.
 
Brian VT said:
BeGreen said:
Brian VT said:
BeGreen said:
The class A pipe should project into the room 6", I would plan on a 12" stub to go through the wall.
I think he'll want an 18" to go through cinder block+framed interior ?

Right Brian, good catch.
I ordered an 18" since I have the same situation. It requires a 24". The 18" only protrudes 4" into the room.
No biggie, I'll throw the 18" up top. I was (technically) 12" short anyway. I hope I can find a 24" locally so I can install this weekend.
Another after-thought...they sell black Dura-Tech for going through the wall since the 6" in the room will show. I'll just have to paint mine.

Not trying to confuse things, but I just bought Matalbestos classA pipe and they say it only needs to protrude 4.5" into the room. Just curious why the difference.
 
My metalbestos install manual says min 3" into the room...
 
I dunno. I saw that in the Selkirk manual when I was planning to use them.
Simpson requires 6" into the room to meet the 6" min. clearance of the DVL dbl. wall interior pipe. I'm okay with it.
I originally had my stove planned at the minimum to the back wall. It would've met code but I'll sleep a little better with a couple inches on the safe side both inside and out.
 
I guess I don't understand this, if you measure straight in (along the class a) there is no combustable, only the thimble.

You would have to measure at least 2" out from the class a at the wall to the stove pipe for your 6" combustable distance, resulting in less than a 6" room penatration.
 
You are correct, Kenn, but I'm going with what's in print. I'm sure that's what my insurance company would want.
 
Kenn said:
My metalbestos install manual says min 3" into the room...

I checked my manual again just to be sure and it does say 4.5". What model of pipe is yours? Mine is Metalbestos Sure Temp.
 
I'm using superpro. Here is a planning guide: (broken link removed to http://www.selkirkcorp.com/WorkArea/showcontent.aspx?id=1648)
 
blel said:
Kenn said:
My metalbestos install manual says min 3" into the room...

I checked my manual again just to be sure and it does say 4.5". What model of pipe is yours? Mine is Metalbestos Sure Temp.

Yea, you're right (broken link removed to http://www.selkirkcorp.com/WorkArea/showcontent.aspx?id=4366)
 
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