So- after a year my fireview is scheduled for install.. do my plans sound safe..

[littlefire]

Took me a year to decide and pick out the stove- then life happened- and it took another year for the install to get scheduled.

I've been lurking for the last year so I value the opinions of the good people on this forum.. Please look over my plans and tell me if you all think this sounds kosher (before anyone does anything)..

My stove installer will be here this Saturday to install the stove -then he will move it aside for the guy that will install my hearth the next Saturday (hopefully) here is my planned set up..

The stove will go into the corner of a 20 x 20 room- the room used to be a garage, but was converted into a livingroom (so it is on a concrete slab).. The slab has hardwood installed on it- my plan is to leave the wood intact and build the hearth on top of it (in case the hearth ever needed to be removed).

I have a 3 cm 49 x 61 slab of granite in production as we speak- The hearth itself will be bulit to 48 x 60 -but I wanted a 1" overhang on the granite.. Besides my ranger this stove, stone, and chimney are the most expensive things I've ever purchased on my own, but it is a dream come true so I went for it..

The hearth will be built with durock and cinderblocks mortared together to a height of 16" (or as close to that as they can get)- with the granite slab mortared and set on top of the blocks..

My big question is.. how will they put the durock together on top of the wood flooring and get everything to be level.. because my granite place said if the foundation is not completely level the stone will crack

Does anyone have any suggestions before work gets under way- or does this all sound kosher, and should I just relax and finally enjoy the fact that I will have get my stove up and running after waiting a year? I think I would die if my stone broke and they would not honor the warranty... It would just be money down the toilet.. The granite place has a 10 yr warranty on the stone IF it is installed by them -or to their specific instructions- which we will be trying to adhere to since I could not afford their install price)..

 

[johnn]

I would think that regardless of how level the floor is, or the durock once in place,that from there it would be up to the masons to get the cinder blocks level. I dont know how many rows of cinder block will be required for the needed support,however will they really need to be perfectly in-line with each other as far as height? I`m thinking that the mortar bed securing the granite slab to the blocks, will even out any heighth differences.

If your question is wheather, the flooring has enough support and over time will sag,causing a possible shift and breakage in mortar joints, resulting in the slab cracking,,,then you have a concern. How was the flooring installed?

 

[wendell]

Is there any way you could have the granite "float" so that if there is any unevenness or if there is any shifting the granite won't crack?

 

[littlefire]

As to 'how' the wood floor is installed- I would think it is glued straight to the concrete slab..

I believe the stone guy plans to fill in the whole area with mortared blocks, and he will be using 8" blocks + 4" block 'caps'..so with a 1/2" durock, and the 3 cm of granite we should be able to get pretty close to my desired 16" height.

but as to the question of 'floating' the granite- I don't quite understand what you mean- please forgive..

 

[wendell]

No forgiveness required. I'm not sure what I meant either. ;-)

What I'm think if there is something you could put between the blocks and the granite to absorb any unevenness or shifting of your slab.

 

[littlefire]

he might be doing the durock on top of the blocks and then thinsetting the granite to that..

all this has me completely freaked out.. I just want it all to go well and finally be able to learn to use my stove..

 

[johnn]

Well you will at least have some questions to ask when they arrive. I wouldnt imagine them mortoring cinder blocks straight to the flooring without durock underneath. But what do i know? If they also apply durock to the block caps and mortor them together, would they also have the need to screw it down, to taks out any possible bows in the sheets. If so then the blocks underneath would need time to set, I would think. Just more questions to further confuse the issue for you,,sorry

 

[branchburner]

Talk to your stone guy about your concerns - but since your floor is on concrete slab there really shouldn't be any shifting or sagging. (Can you find out for sure if the flooring is directly on the slab?) Just let him know you don't want any chance of that granite cracking, and ask how he plans to ensure that.
I don't think the issue is so much being a "level" surface as being an "even" surface, though I suppose you could use those terms interchangably. Obviously you want the floor/hearth level, but the real thing to be avoided is any kind of bow or dip in the surface that granite lies upon. If it is even a little concave or convex over any long span that could provide a pivot to allow the granite to fail. The surface has to be even, and it has to be solidly supported (that's what will keep it even!). Just make sure your stone guy is on top of it and has a game plan.

 

[Highbeam]

No sweat on the granite. What the mason will do is build a solid base as close to level and even as he can. He will then cover the whole thing with a bed of mortar and set the granite on the wet bed of mortar. He will then squish it down and spooge out extra mortar off the sides. Just like setting a single ceramic tile. The point is that the granite will have full contact with the mortar bed and will then be fully supported when the mortar dries. What you don't want is a point load or a few points which support the granite. This would happen if you just set the granite down on dried mortar and you would risk crackage.

Be sure he wet sets the granite on a thick bed of mortar. This is the kind of hearth that you build on the subfloor, the concrete, and not the wood which is glued or floating. If this was a premanufactured hearth pad then you could throw it on top of the wood.

I can't wait to see the picks of this raised hearth and the granite. Sounds really cool.

 

[littlefire]

The stone guy asked me if I wanted the wood to be cut out and I said no... should I change this plan and let him cut it out so it sits on the concrete..

Guess I'm just a nervous wreck because it is such a large slab of granite and is costing me so much- just want everything to be perfect (like we all do)..

The husband doesn't want much to do with this project so I'll need all the support from here that I can get - but I'm sure he'll at least take pictures for me so I can post them for everyone to see- then I'll be back with the questions on -how to run my stove lol..

 

[Highbeam]

I would definitely cut the floor. Since the "wood" is on concrete we know that it must be some sort of pergo type wood floor right? Regardless, all wood floors need to expand and contract and won't be able to with the concrete hearth anchoring it. It could buckle the floor elsewhere in the room. The wood beneath the hearth will be damaged by the hearth construction anyway so your hearth will be permanent.

 

[littlefire]

I'm 'pretty sure' the wood has been glued to the concrete, but what you say is correct that the weight from the stove and hearth would damage the floor below anyway- so I guess we will be cutting it away..

so now I don't really need the durock- correct? Since I will be building directly onto concrete.. That may make it better for leveling purposes anyway..

 

[TreePapa]

It's likely that your original garage floor had a slight slope toward the door (most do). Do you know how the builders leveled that slope? Depending on what the floor installeers used to level the slope so they could install a level floor, your mason may need to remove that and relevel.

Discuss this w/ your mason ahead of time so you don't get any surprises.

Peace,
- Sequoia

 

[Flatbedford]

Did mean to say that the stove is going to be installed, then moved out of the way so that the hearth can be built? why not build the hearth and then have the stove installed? How can the stove and pipe be installed before you are absolutely sure of the height of the hearth? Maybe I just misunderstood you?

 

[Flatbedford]

Did you mean to say that the stove is going to be installed, then moved out of the way so that the hearth can be built? Why not build the hearth and then have the stove installed? How can the stove and pipe be installed before you are absolutely sure of the height of the hearth? Maybe I just misunderstood you?

 

[littlefire]

I 'was' originally going to have the hearth built first and then have the stove installed -but- when my stove installer came to the house to look at the layout -he said that I was doing things backwards and that he was uncomfortable doing it this way.. He said if I had the hearth installed first that I ran the chance of it not being centered on the hearth because of installing around trusses and joists..

I called my stone guy and told him what this guy said and he said he thought that too- but since I was so excited about getting the hearth that he was going to install it for me. So I ended up post-poning the hearth to let the stove go in first..and my stone guy said to call him and he would come out when I was ready..

So- the stove guy will install the stove and then unhook it and move it to the other side of the floor for the hearth guys to come in and do their thing.. Both guys come highly recommended so I have high hopes..

I'm so excited- but still very nervous

 

[Highbeam]

Wow, well that's one way to do it. I am guilty of building the hearth first and then the stove installer could have but didn't center the chimney install perfectly over the hearth. We're talking 1/4" here. Both contractors should be able to run a plumb bob and get it close but hey, you're keeping them both happy and they won't have an excuse for errors.

On a granite slab hearth there is no reference lines as there are with grout lines between tiles so I don't think that the typical contractor slop will be noticeable.

Be sure to take pictures for us!

 

[littlefire]

Keeping them both happy is great- as long as they make ME happy too..

I was a little perplexed when this professional stove installer said he was uncomforatable doing it the way I had it planned..but what could I say- do it anyway- no, cause then he would just use that as an excuse if something did go wrong..he'd give me the old "I told you so".. So, to make everyone happy- I gave in.. which will be a little extra waiting for me, but if all goes right -that's OK..lol

And I will surely take pictures for all to see- than I'll be asking advice for my break in fire.. OOOH I'm so excited..

 

[Flatbedford]

I understand now. Your guy is doing the chimney install so the hearth is in the right place.

 

[Highbeam]

Which came first, the chicken or the egg? In my case, I wanted the hearth to be centered on the wall and then have the stove guy center the chimney on the hearth. I've even bought contractors some lunch to keep them happy and productive.

 

[Wet1]

It sounds really nice, I'm looking forward to the pictures!

 

[littlefire]

Well the stove is in (sort of)...

The installer came out saturday and marked the place I wanted to hearth- took him about an hour or so.. he measured, marked, taped, and drew lines- then measured and moved tape- then measured some more..

then; he measured everywhere for the hole in the ceiling- checked where the joists and trusses were in the attic.. moved the stove into position.. dropped the plumb bob, drew the circle with a compass- measured some more---then they cut the hole..whew.. I was tired just watching that part.

Now comes the part that confused me.. My installer said he has been installing stoves for more than 30 years- thus the desire to let him have his way and postpone putting the hearth in first- but, he scratched his head most of the day and said that this stove (my fireview) was difficult to install.. I'll explain:

I ordered ALL of the safety bells and whistles that were offered from Woodstock- I got both heat shields- the double wall pipe- the close clearance pipe- the storm collar- the brace that goes on the roof.. You get the idea.. well the first thing he had a fit with was the elbow that goes into the back of the stove.. he didn't know he was supposed to use the stainless steel adapter that they sent with it and was just going to start drilling holes, so I went outside real quick and called Woodstock to ask if that was ok- they got on the phone with him and told him to use the stainless steel adapter or it would not fit right.. he hung up with them and told me that he did not like it because it would be 'loose', but he would use it because it is what 'they' recommended (woodstock told me that it would not be loose once it was secured).. Anybody else use this piece? Any problems with it being loose, causing smoke, any other problems?

then he had a problem with the amount of pipe that they sent.. granted, our roof pitch measurements were off from his measurements.. but, 2 different people from woodstock told us that the recommended height for the chimney was 15'.. which confused me because the book that came with the stove says 14'.. anyway, that was going to have about 7' of pipe coming out the top of my house- which he kept saying was going to 'look funny'.. well they got all the holes cut and a short piece of pipe sticking out the top of the house and put the cap on.. this was about all he could do today..

now we wait for phase 2 - the hearth installers..

However, I am now concerned over the install of my stove, since it seems he does not like the way the stove is designed- him and his helper kept saying that it was a bad design.. Will they do a halfa$$ job of finishing the install and just say that they told me so..

Will I have smoke coming into my house at the elbow with the adapter that they don't like.. Do I have too much pipe sticking out of my house (he says there is more outside, than I have inside).. but said he will put it up if it is required for proper operation of the stove, 'it will just look funny'..

this has now went to a whole new level of stress.. what do you think?

 

[Adam_MA]

I would say to make sure he does the install based on what Woodstock says. It's their stove, their design, and they really do know best!

 

[Flatbedford]

I think your installer is a jack ass. Good luck with him. He reminds me of the guy I hired to change the engine in my boat a few years ago. He was on the phone arguing with the guy I bought it from and telling me that the guy didn't know anything. Funny thing is that it wouldn't run right until he "figured out" by himself that it should be set up the way the guy who didn't know anything told him. Good luck. Call the folks at Woodstock as often as you feel you need to and insist that he do what they tell him.