Should I buy a Palladian?

[Anicole]

Hello Ya'll!! Last year my husband and I installed a new Vermont Castings Aspen C3. The stove was basically the only one that would fit in our existing chimney opening with the necessary clearances to the mantel. The VC website says the Aspen heats 400-1200 square feet and we are trying to heat a 600 square foot open space, but it is not doing to job! We live in NC (so it's normally not super cold) but our old house is not well insulated, so although the stove is running well (no problem getting up to temp, no smoke going in the house when the door is open like I have seen others comment) it is not enough heat. I am ready to bump out into the room more in order to get a bigger stove that will actually make it warm in the house. I see a Woodstock Palladian stove for sale on Craigslist for $1500, which is just within the budget. I love the way it looks but have owned a Woodstock Fireview in the past, and replaced it with a Vigilant because it just was not hot enough. I'm wondering if its crazy to think of getting another soapstone stove, or if the Palladian would put out enough heat. Any other stove suggestions to look for used?

 

[ManitobaSky]

I wouldn’t really call a Palladian a bigger stove then a C3, the firebox is only a tiny bit bigger. You might get some more heat out of it because of the user controlled air but you would be feeding it pretty often.

 

[Anicole]

I wouldn’t really call a Palladian a bigger stove then a C3, the firebox is only a tiny bit bigger. You might get some more heat out of it because of the user controlled air but you would be feeding it pretty often.

Yeah that's a good point. It's just such a beautiful stove I want it to work for me! I should wait till something bigger comes up though.

 

[fire_man]

Hello Ya'll!! Last year my husband and I installed a new Vermont Castings Aspen C3. The stove was basically the only one that would fit in our existing chimney opening with the necessary clearances to the mantel. The VC website says the Aspen heats 400-1200 square feet and we are trying to heat a 600 square foot open space, but it is not doing to job! We live in NC (so it's normally not super cold) but our old house is not well insulated, so although the stove is running well (no problem getting up to temp, no smoke going in the house when the door is open like I have seen others comment) it is not enough heat. I am ready to bump out into the room more in order to get a bigger stove that will actually make it warm in the house. I see a Woodstock Palladian stove for sale on Craigslist for $1500, which is just within the budget. I love the way it looks but have owned a Woodstock Fireview in the past, and replaced it with a Vigilant because it just was not hot enough. I'm wondering if its crazy to think of getting another soapstone stove, or if the Palladian would put out enough heat. Any other stove suggestions to look for used?

I've owned both the FV and Palladian.
If you replaced the FV because it was not hot enough, the Palladian is not a good choice.

 

[Todd]

Maybe look into adding insulation? $1500 could go a long ways on 600 sq ft and make that Aspen a better fit.

 

[jetsam]

+1 on the insulation.

Any stove will struggle if it's installed inside a fireplace on an exterior wall- 3/4 of its heat output is going outside.

If you do want to move out of the fireplace, remember that you may well need a rear-vent stove unless you're willing to drill a new hole in the existing masonry stack.

You may want to consider inserts for the fireplace, and relocating the stove elsewhere and going straight up through the roof as options. Both will work better than a tiny freestander trapped inside of a masonry fireplace. The insert is designed for that situation but may require electricity to perform well.

Your current idea (a freestander sitting outside of the fireplace) would also be fine but you will either have a limited choice of which stoves you can use (rear venting models or short models with very low initial rise requirements), or you will need a new hole in the chimney for the flue to enter .

Soapstone is an all-around bad idea if you want heat out of a stove- its thermal conductivity is vastly lower than steel. You CAN wrap insulation around your space heater, and maybe it looks pretty, but it'd be a much better heater if you took the insulation off.

 

[Anicole]

I've owned both the FV and Palladian.
If you replaced the FV because it was not hot enough, the Palladian is not a good choice.

Yeah I should clarify, that was a different house. But it did make me wary of a soapstone stove, as I felt like it didn't put out a lot of heat.

 

[Anicole]

Maybe look into adding insulation? $1500 could go a long ways on 600 sq ft and make that Aspen a better fit.

It's a good point, but complicated by the fact my home is from 1850 and has original windows that are protected by a historic agreement. They are well sealed with caulk but still just single pane.

 

[Anicole]

+1 on the insulation.

Any stove will struggle if it's installed inside a fireplace on an exterior wall- 3/4 of its heat output is going outside.

If you do want to move out of the fireplace, remember that you may well need a rear-vent stove unless you're willing to drill a new hole in the existing masonry stack.

You may want to consider inserts for the fireplace, and relocating the stove elsewhere and going straight up through the roof as options. Both will work better than a tiny freestander trapped inside of a masonry fireplace. The insert is designed for that situation but may require electricity to perform well.

Your current idea (a freestander sitting outside of the fireplace) would also be fine but you will either have a limited choice of which stoves you can use (rear venting models or short models with very low initial rise requirements), or you will need a new hole in the chimney for the flue to enter .

Soapstone is an all-around bad idea if you want heat out of a stove- its thermal conductivity is vastly lower than steel. You CAN wrap insulation around your space heater, and maybe it looks pretty, but it'd be a much better heater if you took the insulation of

It is an interior fireplace, and yes I would need a rear venting stove. I like the aesthetics of a wood stove so much more than an insert. Also the hearth is not raised at all, if that makes a difference. I guess I would consider one if I really couldn't find a stove that would work. I see a Jotul F 500 oslo from 2007 for sale a couple hours away. I think that stove could work. Also a Quadrafire Explorer 2 four hours away and $500 more. (both used)

 

[jetsam]

It's a good point, but complicated by the fact my home is from 1850 and has original windows that are protected by a historic agreement. They are well sealed with caulk but still just single pane.

That's why storm windows used to be a common thing. Good news- they're not common anymore, but they're still a thing, and they make efficient double-pane ones now.

 

[begreen]

If the Aspen is not heating the 600 sq ft space well then there is a large amount of leakage and heat loss. Normally that stove would be enough to drive one out of the house if burning well. However, if the wood is not fully seasoned or the flue system too short, then that could also be the issue.

What stove top temperatures is it running at? How well seasoned is the firewood? How tall is the flue system on the stove?

 

[Anicole]

We normally run it about 400-500. The firewood seems good to me, though I don't have a moisture metre. This is our first time cutting our own wood, it's been seasoned for about a year and we have much more consistent results than when we used to buy wood when we lived in a city. We burn a mix of hard and soft woods (maple, red oak, pine, black walnut, poplar). Flue system is about 20 feet. The stove seems to burn well, no issue with buildup on the glass or smoke coming out of the front door like I have seen others mention. I gotta say visually it looks really small for the space. It's also really tucked into the fireplace which I'm sure doesn't help. I just remeasured the space, it's more like 700 square feet with a bathroom whose door is normally open. Still well within the range that the stove should heat.

 

[Anicole]

My husband just pointed out we have very high ceilings so the cubic feet of the space is probably larger than the square footage might make one assume.

 

[ManitobaSky]

With 700 square feet, tall ceilings and questionable insulation and windows the C3 may be too small. 400-500 seems low from what others have posted for stove temps, could you try running with only the pine, maple and popular and see if that has any effect. Those woods are more likely too season in the time you had, I would doubt the oak is ready. Also since the C3 is thermostatic I wonder if the tight install is limiting its performance maybe? could you post a photo of the install? Maybe you could move the C3 out a little and get better heat out of it with out having the stove replaced.

 

[ctyankee]

It's a good point, but complicated by the fact my home is from 1850 and has original windows that are protected by a historic agreement. They are well sealed with caulk but still just single pane.

windowinserts.com. Very good product. Well worth the modest investment per window.

 

[begreen]

Back to the original question, should you get the Palladian? Perhaps. It would get the job done. The Fireview might be a better fit. The Palladian takes a 7" flue while the Fireview is 6". It also has a lower, low-end output than the Palladian and a larger firebox for longer burn time. That said, if the draft is good, a Palladian can be reduced down to 6".

 

[begreen]

windowinserts.com. Very good product. Well worth the modest investment per window.

Have you installed them in your home? If so, how clear is the vinyl window as compared to glass?

 

[fire_man]

I get amazing 10+ hr burn times with the Palladian but it does not throw as much heat as my FV did.
I have the 6" flue reducer on a 25 foot flue and it drafts perfectly. The ashpan is great.

I've had 4 stoves and the Palladian is my favorite but has the lowest heat output.

 

[begreen]

I get amazing 10+ hr burn times with the Palladian but it does not throw as much heat as my FV did.
I have the 6" flue reducer on a 25 foot flue and it drafts perfectly.
The ashpan is great.

Yes, it's a nice stove and more contemporary looking. I considered it for our house. The Fireview has about .4 cu ft more capacity and a wider burn range from about 7,600 BTUs up to 46,500.

 

[Anicole]

With 700 square feet, tall ceilings and questionable insulation and windows the C3 may be too small. 400-500 seems low from what others have posted for stove temps, could you try running with only the pine, maple and popular and see if that has any effect. Those woods are more likely too season in the time you had, I would doubt the oak is ready. Also since the C3 is thermostatic I wonder if the tight install is limiting its performance maybe? could you post a photo of the install? Maybe you could move the C3 out a little and get better heat out of it with out having the stove replaced.

Here's some photos. The stove is really not extending out into the rooms much.

 

[Anicole]

windowinserts.com. Very good product. Well worth the modest investment per window.

thank you for the recommendation, I will check them out.

 

[begreen]

Is there an insulated block-off plate installed in the damper area of the fireplace?

 

[ManitobaSky]

Here's some photos. The stove is really not extending out into the rooms much.
View attachment 290480View attachment 290481

Doesn’t look like you would have the room to move the C3 out, I was hoping you had enough height in the fire place for a tee on the liner and then a short run into the stove. Bummer cause the C3 looks great in your shape. Does the chimney have a block off plate? Just desperately grasping at straws hoping to find a away for you not to change out your stove….

 

[ctyankee]

Have you installed them in your home? If so, how clear is the vinyl window as compared to glass?

The lessening of clarity is to me insignificant. I think most would find it acceptable. But I would not want them in year round. I only use them for the heating season. Some use them for a/c season.

 

[bholler]

It's a good point, but complicated by the fact my home is from 1850 and has original windows that are protected by a historic agreement. They are well sealed with caulk but still just single pane.

Install interior storm panels in that case