Shorties for a N/S load ?

[Dajolu]

My Green Mountain 60 will take 18” logs E/W but no more then 10-11” N/S. So far I have just been burning fires E/W, but when I process wood on my own should I just cut up the log lengths at 10” to do a N/S load, or keep the log lengths in the 16-18” range and just do E/W loading? Seems like N/S is ideal but then again stacking 10” logs may prove problematic. Maybe a mixture of N/S and E/W I dunno. . .

 

[begreen]

Cutting and stacking all that wood to 10" would drive me nuts. It's meant to be an E/W loader.

 

[raiderfan]

My ZC Fireplace is made for E/W loading as well, so I am going through the almost the same dilemma as you. I have wood left ready to burn that are 18-20" or more that fit my VC Winterwarm. So I cut off enough to make my splits around 15" or so, just so I can load N/S (will take 16" splits that way). So that is what I have been doing the last 2 winters, however, FINALLY have wood stacked that will fit.

Stacking 10" would be a pain... I agree with BG on that one.

 

[Wisco Shepherd]

Maybe keep a small stash of 10" in an IBC Tote for especially cold occasions. Stacking 10s would suck but totes ..........

 

[Dajolu]

Maybe keep a small stash of 10" in an IBC Tote for especially cold occasions. Stacking 10s would suck but totes ..........

Yea keeping a bunch in something like that would probably be the way to go.

 

[MRD1985]

My stove is designed for E/W loading, but I find it burns MUCH better loaded N/S. But my N/S loads take 14-14.5”. 10” is a pain for sure. That would be very annoying to stack as previously stated.

All depends on you. It really does not matter what anyone else thinks. Run the stove the best way that works for you.

 

[bigealta]

My f400 only can get 8" or 9" N/S.
That said i do keep as many shorties as i can for sleepers on the bottom of top down starts and also reloads sometimes.

I season them on the tops of my stacks and in some small mini stacks and spread out on small "drying racks".

But i won't specifically cut any 18" pieces to make shorties.

 

[begreen]

My f400 only can get 8" or 9" N/S.
That said i do keep as many shorties as i can for sleepers on the bottom of top down starts and also reloads sometimes.

I season them on the tops of my stacks and in some small mini stacks and spread out on small "drying racks".

But i won't specifically cut any 18" pieces to make shorties.

I did the same thing when we had an F400. It worked for starting, but I was glad to switch to a N/S loading stove.

 

[EbS-P]

When the tree service drops off shorties I stack them separate. I’d never cut that short. It’s double the work for 15-20% more fuel per load.

 

[BillBurns]

My stove holds 19 in. logs, but I usually use around 10, or smaller. I load N/S and E/W plus anywhere in between. If it fits I use it.

 

[begreen]

When the tree service drops off shorties I stack them separate. I’d never cut that short. It’s double the work for 15-20% more fuel per load.

And more firewood fuel + gas wasted as sawdust from the extra cuts.

 

[EbS-P]

My experience loading N/S shorties means any future stove will allow 17” N/S loading.

 

[stoveliker]

I have about half a cord if shorties this season, 8-12" long. Essentially blocks of red oak. From summer 2020, before I knew my neighbors wanted shorties.
I stack them in the box. It works. But I get less in them with these blocks than putting 17-19" splits n/s.

Future years won't have shorties, as I give them to the elderly neighbors. They're happy, I'm happy.

 

[NickW]

I cut to 12" for the Stratford 2 in the Northwoods. Yes, stacking sucks but n/s loads and burns so much better.

 

[all night moe]

I'm a tree service/contract climber. I bring home truck loads of tree service wood. Leaves me with no shortage of uglies, and shorts. Like noted, these are a major PITA to stack.

I have some materials collected for an uglies/shorties wood shed. I'm planning for about 10x10' and 9-10' tall. I have posts, rafters and some recycled tin roof. I'm going for a simple shed roof with pallet floor. Scrap lumber to tie the walls together. Chain link fence for the "sheathing." Plenty of air flow for chunky pieces to dry. Leaving the top open about 16'' for easy filling. 3 sides will have 16'' ports at the bottom, open for drawing wood out. I figure I'll make a door to gain access if ever need be. Drawing from the bottom like a cat food dispenser will pull the driest. Feed the freshest in through the top. Collect with a wheel barrow for a good sized load. Only material I'm lacking is the chain link. I've got to make time to chat with the local fence guy......

 

[NickW]

I'm a tree service/contract climber. I bring home truck loads of tree service wood. Leaves me with no shortage of uglies, and shorts. Like noted, these are a major PITA to stack.

I have some materials collected for an uglies/shorties wood shed. I'm planning for about 10x10' and 9-10' tall. I have posts, rafters and some recycled tin roof. I'm going for a simple shed roof with pallet floor. Scrap lumber to tie the walls together. Chain link fence for the "sheathing." Plenty of air flow for chunky pieces to dry. Leaving the top open about 16'' for easy filling. 3 sides will have 16'' ports at the bottom, open for drawing wood out. I figure I'll make a door to gain access if ever need be. Drawing from the bottom like a cat food dispenser will pull the driest. Feed the freshest in through the top. Collect with a wheel barrow for a good sized load. Only material I'm lacking is the chain link. I've got to make time to chat with the local fence guy......

I like the theory, but don't you think the weight of the wood on top will make it tough to pull wood out the bottom and if it's 10x10 you'll never be able to reach the middle?

 

[all night moe]

I like the theory, but don't you think the weight of the wood on top will make it tough to pull wood out the bottom and if it's 10x10 you'll never be able to reach the middle?

I've thought about this.....part of the reason I haven't gone forwards, yet. I'm in dire needs of running an OWB. Will cut my chores down ten fold. Plan would be to fill the ugly shed. Starting in the spring and filling by late summer, early fall. Of course, the bottom would be the most seasoned. I'm up in the hills and get a fair amount of winds so, the top should dry by the end of the burn season. This would be my primary OWB fuel, saving good grade firewood for sales. Well, it would be the majority of my fuel....

With the 3 opened bottom sides, I should be able to grab what I need for a wheel barrow fill. I have one of those garden tools, I forget what it's called. Looks like a claw on the end of 5' handle, used for mixing soils. That will give me my reach. In fact, I have a second that a tine got twisted and it's only sporting a broken 24'' handle. I saved it for mixing coals in the OWB. Straighten the tine and weld on a 4' pipe for a new handle.

Anybody interested in this Idea, could just downsize the scale to their needs. Possibly even just build 2 smaller uglies sheds. I will add I plan on a good overhang of the roof to keep the sides dry.

 

[xman23]

For all the reasons said I would stick with E/W burning. Yes N/S does have more wood surface and air space for quicker start up's. One down side is the but end of the wood is facing the glass so you can expect to blacken the glass more often.

 

[bigealta]

Bottom Line N/S is good, but E/W is good too, especially if u use spacers between the stacked rows.

 

[kennyp2339]

Ahhh to stack shorts or uglies I took a pallet, 60" metal garden fencing, made a cylinder tied with tie wire and just threw the shorts in that, works like a charm

 

[begreen]

Bottom Line N/S is good, but E/W is good too, especially if u use spacers between the stacked rows.

It's hard to utilize the full capacity of the firebox loading E/W. N/S is better for full loads in the stove without worrying about the top splits rolling up against the glass.

 

[Kodiak]

Yup. I tried an east west load in the t6 to see if it burned better or differently. It’s a much better load north south for that very reason. You have to fill it very carefully so it doesnt roll and hit the door. There was no real advantage really.

Talking about the uglies, all my wood I do not discriminate, if it’s wood and it burns it goes in. I use my uglies when I’m down to coals or nesting the end of a cycle and want to extend it a bit for timings so my cycled loads are running “ on time “ or when I want to to go to bed. I don’t like going to bed k owing the cycle hasn’t peaked yet or is peaking and is on its way back down.

 

[mpaul]

I typically burn E/W but will use shorties to load N/S from time to time. My shorties will vary in length but I always find it a pain to carry them in. Just can’t fit a full load of shorties in my log carrier. Always requires two trips to load the stove with the shorties.

 

[all night moe]

I typically burn E/W but will use shorties to load N/S from time to time. My shorties will vary in length but I always find it a pain to carry them in. Just can’t fit a full load of shorties in my log carrier. Always requires two trips to load the stove with the shorties.

Yes they are indeed an inconvenience. But those of good hardwoods are so worth it.
What about bringing them in with a plastic tub? The round kind with rope handles.

 

[bigealta]

It's hard to utilize the full capacity of the firebox loading E/W. N/S is better for full loads in the stove without worrying about the top splits rolling up against the glass.

Yes agree that is the downside of E/W, but not too hard to mostly overcome with some experience in strategic loading and another benefit of using top down as it's easy to load for inner collapse vs. collapse onto the glass.

Reloads on large coals are a bit more finicky when packing on new loads. N/S wins for fast easy reloads for sure.