Selkirk DSP with EKO 40

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rjkohrs

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jul 6, 2008
7
northeastern Pa.
Hi,
I've been a member for awhile, but fall in the lurk mode... absorbing (or at least attempting to) all this great information about wood gasification boilers. I am getting ready to install an EKO 40 in my basement along side my current baseboard hot water oil burner system. The EKO will be hooked up to an 8" masonary chimney. I was wondering if anyone here has used Selkirk DSP, and if so, will a 7" to 8" increaser work going from the boiler to the pipe? The specs appear favorable, but it is still nice to hear from someone who has done this.
Thank You,
Randy
 
I have not done it. But when researching for my system I found that it was okay to increase the size of the flu pipe. It was suggested by most to not decrease the size.
 
Sorry, my original post may have been misleading. My concern is with the 7" size of the dsp increaser fitting matching up with the outlet pipe coming out of the EKO 40.
 
So are you talking about reducing flu size from the EKO to your chimney? From 8" on EKO to 7" into chimney? Is that correct?

I read that it is not advisable to reduce flu size. I did have one company tell me it would be okay as long as the draft of the chimney was good. But that draft would have to be confirmed. Someone else will chime in on this. I suppose, if you did it, you would want the reduction done on a vertical run only and only if the draft of chimney was correct.
 
I believe that the EKO 40 has an 8 inch outlet, like my 25. I used a double wall black pipe reducer to go from the EKO to the 7 inch chimney I already had in place. The fit on the EKO is OK, but required some gasket material to seal tight. If you have an 8 inch chimney there should be no need to reduce the outlet.
 
Medman said:
I believe that the EKO 40 has an 8 inch outlet, like my 25. I used a double wall black pipe reducer to go from the EKO to the 7 inch chimney I already had in place. The fit on the EKO is OK, but required some gasket material to seal tight. If you have an 8 inch chimney there should be no need to reduce the outlet.

+1. The outlet on your EKO will be 8".
 
I have an DSP 8" stove adapter . It will fit on the boiler backwards, but not the correct way. The OD of the stove outlet is 7-7/8" and the ID is 7-1/2". The OD of the 7" side of the DSP increaser fitting is 7-1/2". I was wondering with manufacturing variances, etc. if this increaser fitting would be able to slide into the stove outlet. I was looking to see if anyone has done this.
 
I used Sellkirk pipe and I can't remember the names that they had for thier pipe but I thought that the DSP pipe was the "chimney" class "A" pipe that is usually used as the actual chimney pipe and that regular "stove" pipe was used between the boiler and the chimney. Now by "chimney pipe" class "A" I mean it's usually stainless steel in and out with about a 1" (insulated) wall thickness. This is what you use to exit thru the wall or ceiling/roof and use for the "stack". Between the boiler and this Chim pipe you generally use a heavy guage or SS stove pipe that is usually single wall and un insulated. All this blabbering of mine is asuming that you don't have any clearance (to combustables) in your situation. If I remember right, yu use the stove (pipe) adapter at the point of transition (where your stove pipe out of your boiler goes into the DSP) of the 2 diff types.
 
Selkirk DSP is double walled smoke pipe for use between any appliance and a chimney, also very useful for tight clearance situations (they claim as close as 6"). The adapter that I spoke of, is the recommended 8" stove to pipe fitting which was not compatible with the outlet on the EKO
 
My EKO 40 is in a pole barn with 14' ceilings. Originally planned to use double wall to the ceiling but couldn't find pieces to connect to the stove. However a small ACE hardware store had a piece of single wall that fit like a glove over the stove outlet. Too bad they don't make single to double wall adapters. Very snug, I had to use a rubber mallet and 2x4 but it went on several inches and I even drilled a small screw to make sure it could come not off. Screw was probably not necesary since I don't think it would come off now without destroying the adapter. I took my double wall back and used 8" single wall up to the adapter in the ceiling. My ceiling is steel and I put the EKO with the left side facing the wall so it gave me plenty of clearance between the wall and chimney. The ceiling adapter upward is all 8" Class A Supervent which I believe is made by Selkirk. You are correct about the size on the EKO outlet. Search that in the posts and you will find many posts about it. I remember a few people making custom stove adapters. The important thing is that it is well secured because these boilers can "huff and puff" and the joints needs to be well secured. Put a cleanout tee with a plug on the bottom instead of just an elbow because you won't want to take this apart except for the plug for cleanings. Does your masonary chimney have a 8" liner? I am pretty sure you do not want to run the EKO without pipe all the way to the top but I will let someone with more experience answer. I was in the same boat as you are with the double wall, glad they took it back at Menards even though it was a special order. You probably need it for the clearances in your situation, so I would search the old posts and see how the other guys had that adapter made.
 
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