I have a Hampton Regency Hi300 insert. I have never gotten an all night burn in it but thats another issue. At the end of last season my secondaries werent working well so I shut it down and cleaned everything out real well. Swept the liner out well and had some crap fall from the last 2 feet. Very little the rest of the liner. It is totally clear now. Looking up and looking down the liner it is clear. Took out and cleaned all secondary tubes with a wire brush and blew them out. Firebrick and baffles removed and cleaned. Put everything back and positioned the baffles correctly and my secondaries were not kicking in at all. I am about to fire it up for the 1st time this season and thought I would ask if I am missing something. Yes my wood is very dry. I even have a bunch dating back to superstorm Sandy. All wood is covered on top. Ideas???
Secondaries not working
- Thread starter rick clifford
- Start date
-
- Tags
- wood insert
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
It's good that the cleaning was done, but the secondary tubes don't need it. Was the chimney cap screen cleaned also?
Was the flue gas diverter above the baffle adjusted or moved?
Was the flue gas diverter above the baffle adjusted or moved?
Chimney cap screen cleaned the best I have done in a few years and I dont know of a diverter above the baffles. I am not sure what that even is. I bought the stove used several years ago and there was never anything above the baffles. (That I have or can remember...I am getting old) Your advice is always appreciated.
My errror, it looks like the flue gas diverter is on the HI500 and not on HI300. It might be good to do a visual on the flue collar to make sure air is not leaking in there. To further cross items off the list, try a fire with some 2x4 cutoffs mixed in to see if that livens up the secondaries. Also, for a test, open a nearby window an inch to see if that has an effect.
I will do both. I didnt check the collar but have have put high heat sealer around it in the past as a precaution just to make sure there werent leaks but maybe its cracked and brittle. I will see. And the window cracked open a bit will try also. One thing I dont like about this stove is the sliding air control which cant be accessed as far as I know. I would like to see it operate as some times the fire stays cooking even after I shut the air down, I did the dollar bill trick and its still quite snug so no air penetration there. I will check now and fire it up. Thx
If I recall, after the first year or so of production in this series,the put a restrictor plate to reduce air flow. This was due to field reports that the stove was hard to control. There are reports in the long Regency ci2600/ci2700 thread about this with some pictures.
Secondary air will be unrestricted regardless of the primary air control setting. This is to ensure a complete, clean burn of the wood gases and to prevent the fire from smoldering.
Secondary air will be unrestricted regardless of the primary air control setting. This is to ensure a complete, clean burn of the wood gases and to prevent the fire from smoldering.
Similar threads
