Second year with the Hearthstone Heritage

[BrowningBAR]

Burning in the Heritage is much easier than last year since I was learning on the go due to it being installed midway through December. I am glad I installed a damper. Seems like all three chimneys have strong drafts and the damper really helps keep the temperature up since less heat is being sucked up the liner.

I have a lot more secondaries this year due to the ever increasing quality of my wood supply.

It really puts out a lot of heat (once I remembered that the damper wasn't just for decoration :lol: ). Just wish it had a longer burn time for my needs. I think the Mansfield that I lost out on this summer probably would have been the perfect sized Hearthstone for me.

Without the damper I had a hard time getting it over 400 degrees. With the damper it is sitting north of 550 degrees.

 

[pen]

I've never found the damper to increase my stoves temps on this epa unit. I find it helps keep things at bay when it's really cold and things get pulling too hard.

But, if it works for you, it works for you. Each and every setup has it's quirks.

Glad to hear you are happier with where you are at.

pen

 

[BrotherBart]

You have wanted to take a Mansfield for a little test drive as long as I have. I will always wonder about that big rock.

 

[pen]

You have wanted to take a Mansfield for a little test drive as long as I have. I will always wonder about that big rock.

All it takes is a little luck

 

[BrowningBAR]

I've never found the damper to increase my stoves temps on this epa unit. I find it helps keep things at bay when it's really cold and things get pulling too hard.

But, if it works for you, it works for you. Each and every setup has it's quirks.

Glad to hear you are happier with where you are at.

pen

I know what you mean. I noticed it was working that way last year, but I thought it might have just been me not knowing the stove that well. The first few burns this year I was using the stove without the damper. I would try all sorts of different positioning and timing with the air control and getting it over 400 was a challenge (got it to 450 on the previous burn) and I was wasting wood. The wood would catch, burn, and I'd have a bunch of secondaries, but the stove temp would never really take off.

Today I ran it like I did last season and the stove is sitting at 575 right now with secondaries while having the air shut down and the damper closed.

 

[BrowningBAR]

You have wanted to take a Mansfield for a little test drive as long as I have. I will always wonder about that big rock.

I was so close.

 

[Stump_Branch]

I wouldnt have minded your heritage either...but good to hear your choices are going well.
Last night was the coldest weve had with a fire, i never understood secondaries like what i saw last night. Fully closed dampner, gas grill look out the tubes. Loved the 575 stove top too.

I have wanted to try a key dampner off my T, havent done so, with such a short chimney i doubt it would ever be needed but i like the thought of control.

 

[Highbeam]

It's a struggle to get my heritage to 550 even with a pretty ideal vertical 14 foot chimney. I tried to install a damper but found out that the double wall pipe I am using makes it difficult.

I think that the hearthstones send too much heat up the flue and would benefit from something slowing down the draft. My flue temp regularly runs above 800, sat at 1000 for about an hour last night while I was trying to warm up the rock.

Clean chimney for sure.

 

[BrowningBAR]

It's a struggle to get my heritage to 550 even with a pretty ideal vertical 14 foot chimney. I tried to install a damper but found out that the double wall pipe I am using makes it difficult.

I think that the hearthstones send too much heat up the flue and would benefit from something slowing down the draft. My flue temp regularly runs above 800, sat at 1000 for about an hour last night while I was trying to warm up the rock.

Clean chimney for sure.

When I had the stove installed I had the damper put into the double wall pipe about 4" from the collar. I was able to intentionally hit 600 degrees with good would using the damper on several occasions. I do not have an internal thermometer for the pipe, but your posts are making me think about doing this to see the difference when the damper is closed and opened.

 

[certified106]

Wow flue temps over 800 regularly would leave me scratching my head.....Once I have gotten used to running the T6 my flue temps have stayed between 500-600 tops during the burn cycle.

 

[BrowningBAR]

Wow flue temps over 800 regularly would leave me scratching my head.....Once I have gotten used to running the T6 my flue temps have stayed between 500-600 tops during the burn cycle.

Yeah, Highbeam has me thinking about checking my internal flue temps. I'm using double-wall pipe so my surface temps are usually in the low 100s. The damper might explain why burn times and stove temps are easier to increase with the damper closed.

 

[snowleopard]

My second year with the Heritage as well. I also have a damper in, and used the propriatary one that is made by the same manufacturer of my double-wall pipe (Excel). My damper has about a 4-6" joint of pipe that it sits in, so installation is as easy as adding another length of pipe would be.

I usually get sufficient heat to warm the house with the stove running in the 350-450 range, and I get nervous when it inches up above 550F. I think 600 or 650 is considered the danger zone for overfiring. I used the damper mostly for two reasons: windstorm howling over the stovepipe, and I wanted to slow down the draft, or shutting the stove down for the night when it's cold and I want the fire to burn slowly.

Still very happy with my stove.

 

[BrowningBAR]

My second year with the Heritage as well. I also have a damper in, and used the propriatary one that is made by the same manufacturer of my double-wall pipe (Excel). My damper has about a 4-6" joint of pipe that it sits in, so installation is as easy as adding another length of pipe would be.

I usually get sufficient heat to warm the house with the stove running in the 350-450 range, and I get nervous when it inches up above 550F. I think 600 or 650 is considered the danger zone for overfiring. I used the damper mostly for two reasons: windstorm howling over the stovepipe, and I wanted to slow down the draft, or shutting the stove down for the night when it's cold and I want the fire to burn slowly.

Still very happy with my stove.

You are correct temps over 600 can crack the stone.

 

[leeave96]

It's a struggle to get my heritage to 550 even with a pretty ideal vertical 14 foot chimney. I tried to install a damper but found out that the double wall pipe I am using makes it difficult.

I think that the hearthstones send too much heat up the flue and would benefit from something slowing down the draft. My flue temp regularly runs above 800, sat at 1000 for about an hour last night while I was trying to warm up the rock.

Clean chimney for sure.

When I had the stove installed I had the damper put into the double wall pipe about 4" from the collar. I was able to intentionally hit 600 degrees with good would using the damper on several occasions. I do not have an internal thermometer for the pipe, but your posts are making me think about doing this to see the difference when the damper is closed and opened.

This has got me thinking. For what ever reason, I thought a stove pipe damper on these EPA stoves were useful for slowing down the draft on a super tall chimney or to slow things down if the stove went into an uncontrollable burn or maybe even a flue fire. I just assumed it was a no-no to use them in an EPA stove (or any other stove) - reasoning was that slowing down the air would slow the exit velocity of the air going up the chimney and cause it to cool - giving creosote a chance to condensate out on the chimney walls.

But - on a stove with secondary burn tubes, it is important to maintain enough firebox temp to keep the secondaries burning-up the bad stuff in the first place. Perhaps if your stove is doing a good job with that, then from a creosote standpoint, it ain't going to be a problem. One could make the case that a catalyist combustor is in effect a stove pipe damper as it causes a restriction in the flue gasses exiting the stove too - allowing the stove pipe to be much cooler.

I've got a stove pipe damper on my Englander set-up and may give it a try tonight - before it starts SNOWING

Bill

 

[Highbeam]

Hearthstones run hotter flue temps than most stoves. Don't know why but members with real probe meters always seem to report high flue temps on these stoves. Remember that 1000 is the safe continuous limit for class A so no big deal. In fact, my condar probe meter tells me that I am in the good range if I'm below about 900 or so.

I tried adding a damper using Simpson's applaince adapter kit with a damper but the cast iron stove collar is too big and meant to accept just teh double wall snout.

The heritage owner's manual tells you that 600 is the stove's "redline" temp so I only go to 550 for fun. The stove makes plenty of heat for us below 500.

 

[relax]

highbeam i had a dampner put on my double wall ,its a one piece section of double wall with the dampner built in..love it,had it on my haritage first .. always half to 3/4 closed. helps slow things down.

 

[BrowningBAR]

highbeam i had a dampner put on my double wall ,its a one piece section of double wall with the dampner built in..love it,had it on my haritage first .. always half to 3/4 closed. helps slow things down.

I have the same damper.