Screws for Attaching Insert Connector to Flexpipe??? Pictures Added

[rhyano]

Hello all,

I am installing a Drolet 1400i Escape insert along with an insulated 6' flex liner and blockoff plate this weekend.
My house is about 25 years old, well insulated, 1200 sq ft 2 story with the insert being installed in a masonary fireplace opening in my living room on the first floor.
What is the best way to connect the flexpipe to the insert?

The connector that came with my flex liner kit has you attach the appliance connector to the flex pipe with 4 stainless steel screws. Im wondering if this is an effective way to connect the flex pipe to the connector. All other designs I have seen, the appliance connector uses a band type clamp to connect things together.

Which one is the preferred method?

Another question that I have is should I be using any sealant on the joints between the insert and the connector and the connector and the flex pipe? Im worried about air leaking at this joint. Just curious if any sealant is used at the joints.

Thank you,

Ryan

 

[DAKSY]

If your liner/adapter kit came with SS screws - use them.
That's the approved attachment for your liner...
You don't need to seal the adapter to the liner OR the top of
the insert. You can if you want, but it's not necessary...

 

[drdoct]

Where'd you get your flex liner kit and what brand is it? My liner just slipped into the appliance connector and had a band clamp that I tightened to it. After that I took stove cement and gooped it in every place that I thought could be an opening around it. The sheet metal screws 'should' hold the liner in place, but I would much rather one with the band clamp. I'd be worried about tearing and just generally having holes in the liner because holes are weak spots, especially so close to the stove.

 

[rhyano]

Thank you for the replys!

The liner is made by Selkirk it is a flexiable liner.

The connector does not have the band clamp and im worried about the screws not holding like they should. Im wondering if a band type connector is better than using screws. Im worried about them not holding up as well during the cleaning process.

Also what type of caulk or product does one use to seal these connector joints up with?

Thanks again!

Ryan

 

[Fsappo]

There was a recent thread discussing using stainless L brackets screwed to the top of the insert and then to the liner. If you dont want to screw into the liner, you can run a stainless hose clamp around the top side of the L brackets

 

[rhyano]

My concern is screwing the appliance adapter (connector) to the actual flex pipe with screws. Im concerned if holding this appliance adapter (connector) to the flex pipe with screws provides adequate holding power -vs- using a band type clamp.

 

[Deep Fryer]

Use both then, band & screws, maybe even a sealer, I dont see how it could hurt, "over-compensating", as it were.
Just keep in mind that at some point you may have to take some of the "connections" apart, in which case I would omit the sealant.

 

[rhyano]

Here is a picture of the appliance connector that was included with the liner kit.

Will this appliance connector work? I would like to get some input from you folks who are much more knowledgeable than I am.
Should I just use this connector, or should I try to get one with a band clamp on it?

Thank you again for taking the time to look at this for me.

 

[daryl]

Stainless steel rivets backed up with a washer is what I like to do.

 

[drdoct]

Don't use caulk. Use stove cement (at least that's what I use). It comes in a little tub and you just goop it on. The stuff in a silicone tube gets really brittle and just pops off.

 

[rhyano]

Hey thanks for the tips.

Looks like im going with the screws with some stainless backup pieces.

Install is tomorrow.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

no sealant is needed, nice tight fit by the looks. why people always want to seal joints like this is beyond me, i never have in 14yrs, w/o any issues. if you have to, just use furnace sement, at least it will just fall apart later when the stove has to come out for some reason...
silocone is 500 or 750max temp, it burns up
milpack is actually the best semi permenants sealant for this application

if you can pre drill holes thru the thick flue collar and use 5/16"headX 1" ss screws, is better than most rivets which are aluminum. if you have extra beefy stainless stel rivets then go for it, but all hardware needs to be stainless steel/
gl w/ the install

 

[theheatelement]

Screws are plenty fine, that stainless is very strong. Dave, the reason people think they have to seal is because they believe that smoke will exit the the appliance connector. In fact the chimney is a negative pressure system which means that the air will actually be drawn into the liner from around it.

 

[drdoct]

I sealed mine up just for that reason. I wanted my draft to come through the stove and not around my joints.

 

[rhyano]

I attached the connector today to the flex liner with sheet metal bolts and nuts. Using washers on the outside and inside I feel will hold it well.

I am also using the sealing cement to totally seal the chimney so the only air that enters it is through the insert.

Thank you for the help with this guys!


I have the chimney liner all insulated and ready to go down the chimney tomorrow morning when my helper will be here to assist me on the roof.

 

[greythorn3]

Screws are plenty fine, that stainless is very strong. Dave, the reason people think they have to seal is because they believe that smoke will exit the the appliance connector. In fact the chimney is a negative pressure system which means that the air will actually be drawn into the liner from around it.

would that cause a runaway chimeny fire?

 

[daryl]

I have been putting chimneys in for 20 years and I have not known of one manufacter that suggest to seal a liner at the joints yet. If you take your time and make every thing fit right.Stove connectors often need too be cut and fit too the stove thats why they make snips and crimpers.There is not one sealent out there that will take the constant expansion, contraction and high heat of the liner. Never had a problem doing it this way but I have been on calls where people complain about smells that are almost always RTV silicon smeared on joints of the liner and connections.

 

[theheatelement]

What exactly do you call a runaway chimney fire?

Screws are plenty fine, that stainless is very strong. Dave, the reason people think they have to seal is because they believe that smoke will exit the the appliance connector. In fact the chimney is a negative pressure system which means that the air will actually be drawn into the liner from around it.

would that cause a runaway chimeny fire?

 

[greythorn3]

maybe i should have said just chimeny fire.