Run away stove

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woodhog73

Minister of Fire
Jan 12, 2016
780
Somewhere cold !
Was having a discussion with a friend who burns an older non epa stove. He was asking me how easy my stove insert is to control air and if I had problems with " run away" burns.

I said no because when I turn my air down I get good secondary burn and medium to slow lazy blue and yellow flames. Lots of heat but medium slow flames nothing " run away" looking to me. But I'm still new at this.

What does a " run away " situation look like? He said his gets so bad at times the stove starts to turn red and it " warps" !! Sounds very unsettling to me. If my stove ever turned red or started to warp I would call the fire department !

So what would a run away stove look like if viewing through a glass door ? Can someone explain this term ? Thanks
 
You're friend is right there are some stove installs that can or are prone to run-away. Run-away meaning with air shut down fully stove temp climbs uncontrollably to over-fire temps. Usually happens with installs that have a very long chimney. But many stoves can be "made" to run-away if you're not using your head. Ex. if you load a stove full of kindling or load on a big hot coal bed. Even a full load of less dense or very dry wood it could happen. Many possibilities.

The key thing is an uncontrolled to the point of over-fire not just a temporary very hot fire that scares you a bit but can be ridin out.

The way to diagnose has more to do with stove top temp and remember to never let any part of the stove glow or get red hot. Looking through the window won't tell the whole story but you'll most likely know it when you see it. Ball-parking too hot is over 800 IMO. Personally I try to stay under 700 and rarely hit 750 for short periods of time.

The way to stop is first make sure air is shut full. If still climbing open the door to send max heat up the flue and out the chimney. Sounds counter intuitive. Some have spritzed water (wouldn't be my choice) or some sand. For what it's worth I've never had it get to that point but it's good to have a plan.

If this was to happen often, a key damper may be the best solution that is if you can do it. Those of us that have inserts don't really have that option.
 
If this happens, just open the door fully. It will calm down pretty quick.
 
Looking through the window won't tell the whole story but you'll most likely know it when you see it.

I'm assuming the entire firebox would be filled with bright yellow very fast moving flames ? And for an extended period of time to reach high temps ?

I'm still burning without a stove top thermometer. Having a non flush mount I've got room but I read they were not accurate ? Even feeling the stove top it's hotter in the center and cooler on the sides. So I've just used my common sense in that run a medium or low grade flame that appears lazy. I've always thought that was a good sign until my friend started talking about run away burns. I just assumed my flame condition would let me know.

On a seperate note I was about to order a rutland stove too thermometer. Then I read they were not accurate ? Or only read accurate for a month, etc. any recommendations on an " accurate. " magnetic thermometer ?
 
I'm assuming the entire firebox would be filled with bright yellow very fast moving flames ? And for an extended period of time to reach high temps ?

Well sure but how it looks and what the temperature is or if its trending up rapidly or stabilizing are different things. I'm sometimes surprised how hot my stove even when it looks pretty calm. Some days the stove just drafts and breaths easy. Also consider how much fuel and what type do you have? Early in the burn cycle, full of high BTU wood? IMO you should run a stove w/o a thermometer so you have some reference point and gain that knowledge over time from checking the temp in all situations.
 
Also consider how much fuel and what type do you have? Early in the burn cycle, full of high BTU wood? IMO you should run a stove w/o a thermometer so you have some reference point and gain that knowledge over time from checking the temp in all situations.

Oak 2 to 3 years dry. Usually do a cold start with some birch and popler I cut into kindling mixed with oak.

What brand thermometer are you using ? Was going to order a rutland stove top thermometer but read they were not accurate. I've been reading that most all thermometers are not very accurate. Any recommendations on a accurate one ?
 
Whatever you get doesn't need to be spot on. I have a cheapo IR and a Rutland magnetic I think. They seem to agree pretty good. From hanging around here I have come to believe that Condars are good. You can check them by putting them in the oven. Of course that won't work if your oven is off.
 
with the insert likely the best bet is the infrared gun.
 
Seconding the "open the door" comment. WIDE open too. You break the draft thats pulling air up through all the wood and more importantly the super-hot secondary burn tubes, and the heat just rushes out of the stove and up the chimney. I had to go for this trick right after I installed a new black stovepipe on my quad 4300 and let it get too hot too fast. The paint normally needs to "bake in" over a couple successively hotter fires... I pretty much did it all at once and got a room full of stank out of it. When I noticed what was happening, that was the quickest way to get the heat out of there, and it worked like a charm.
 
Was having a discussion with a friend who burns an older non epa stove. He was asking me how easy my stove insert is to control air and if I had problems with " run away" burns.

I said no because when I turn my air down I get good secondary burn and medium to slow lazy blue and yellow flames. Lots of heat but medium slow flames nothing " run away" looking to me. But I'm still new at this.

What does a " run away " situation look like? He said his gets so bad at times the stove starts to turn red and it " warps" !! Sounds very unsettling to me. If my stove ever turned red or started to warp I would call the fire department !

So what would a run away stove look like if viewing through a glass door ? Can someone explain this term ? Thanks
Your friend just needs to hog-tie his stove to keep it from running away. You're just the one to help him with that, woodhog73.
 
Your friend just needs to hog-tie his stove to keep it from running away. You're just the one to help him with that, woodhog73.

I'm afraid I have no idea what your trying to imply here. Hog tie and wood stoves have no reason to be in the same sentence. Please do tell I'm all ears