What do I need for a 6 inch stovepipe roof pass thru on my shallow roof trusses 24 inch on center...?I want to go uninsulated up to the ceiling and insulated after that...
roof kit
- Thread starter pellet9999
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Why not double wall all the way up? Im not sure single wall is the way to go.
What you’re going to need to do is find a chimney pipe company you like and get their kit.
check out Selkirk, Duravent, Ventis to get an idea of the spectrum of quality and pricing
all of them make fine pipe and hardware
What you’re going to need to do is find a chimney pipe company you like and get their kit.
check out Selkirk, Duravent, Ventis to get an idea of the spectrum of quality and pricing
all of them make fine pipe and hardware
There's a number of parts, from the stove thru the ceiling and roof. A stove store is the easy way to go. I think to all go together, it needs to be all the the same manufacture. The ceiling box hold up the weight of the chimney above. Also the transition from the stove connector to the chimney is in this box. You can do single wall up to the ceiling box. I did and get a lot of heat off that section of pipe. At the time I didn't know this cooling can be an issue with the double wall chimney above. But mine is straight up and works fine.
If your handy and codes, insurance, etc allow, you can do the total stove/ chimney yourself. First and foremost read and understand all the manufactures minimum clearance and "R value requirements. Otherwise you can burn the house down.
If your handy and codes, insurance, etc allow, you can do the total stove/ chimney yourself. First and foremost read and understand all the manufactures minimum clearance and "R value requirements. Otherwise you can burn the house down.
the prices are RIDICulous. I will build my own box thru the ceiling. I stilll have a bunch of ceramic insulation from 10 years ago to insulate it.btw. how far away from the wall/ceiling jct do I have to be up the truss for code???
and I guess I will do all insulated..
Inflation/money printing idiocy/t/watchout/things are going to get crazy over the next 10 years..
and I guess I will do all insulated..
Inflation/money printing idiocy/t/watchout/things are going to get crazy over the next 10 years..
Building it yourself will never pass code. Insulation is not used in a support box. This is infrastructure. Do it right with the same support box as the chimney pipe manufacturer and follow the chimney pipe mfg. directions. It needs a minimum of 2" clearance from combustibles including roof sheathing.
You’re paying for insurance coverage in the event of a fire. I know it’s expensive and when you get it you’ll see it’s just a bunch of bent up sheet metal.
The cost high because UL and CUL certification doesn’t come cheap. Neither does US or Canadian production.
The cost high because UL and CUL certification doesn’t come cheap. Neither does US or Canadian production.
Well, usually a bit more than that. Depending on the mfg. In addition to the metal enclosure maintaining tested distances, it also has a mating start collar for the chimney pipe and a 3-6" projection on the room side where it has the transition fitting for the stove pipe. All this is done with a stainless flue path.
pellet9999. We still only have a slim idea of the details of this installation. Without them, we can't make suggestions or know whether you are looking at the correct parts or not.
will that pipe adaptor that is on the bottom of it fit insulated DV pipe or just regular? is there an adaptor
inside the box for the top piece of stovepipe..insulated?? the top piece being the one that goes above the roof..??
I asked before how many ft from the side wall should the hole up be??It cant be too close to the wall, no??
inside the box for the top piece of stovepipe..insulated?? the top piece being the one that goes above the roof..??
I asked before how many ft from the side wall should the hole up be??It cant be too close to the wall, no??
Double-wall stove pipe is not DV pipe and it is not insulated. There is an air-gap between the inner and outer pipes. DV pipe can not be used for a woodstove. That is for a gas stove. Double-wall, woodstove stovepipe has a stainless liner and a steel outer jacket.
The bottom of the support box connects with either single-wall or double-wall stovepipe. For some brands, an adapter is required. On the chimney side, there is a mating coupler for the chimney pipe without an adapter.
The bottom of the support box connects with either single-wall or double-wall stovepipe. For some brands, an adapter is required. On the chimney side, there is a mating coupler for the chimney pipe without an adapter.
No one shows the inside of the box in any picture or video. LAME. I assume that a 6 inch Duratech insulated chimney
pipe will fit on the adaptor that is inside the box..??no??
pipe will fit on the adaptor that is inside the box..??no??
Every manufacturer does it a little different. Some the adapter is part of the box. Others the adapter goes on the pipe then just sits in the box.
Duratech's chimney support box has a mating male end start collar for their chimney pipe to twist lock on to.
Similar threads
