Amazing how the more I read from this website & look into my setup, the more I realize I need to change if I'm to make things workable. Thought this question was different enough that perhaps I should start a new post.
It turns out that my 'horizontal' run to a ceramic lined masonry chimney is actually very slightly reverse -sloped. To the tune of a 1/4" in two feet. So, free liquid would flow towards the chimney, if present. I see three possible options (maybe more, but these seem most practical to me at the moment - being too early):
1. Minor issue, don't worry about it, just go ahead and connect it back up (with proper piping, combustibles clearances, and the like).
2. Get a short leg kit for the stove, and find someway of connecting a slightly shorter stove into the wall (I don't think you could just deflect Class A and/or double wall pipe that much at the joints). I'm also assuming I could use this kit or something similar - (broken link removed).
3. Keep (or shorten, as needed) the current legs for the stove, reline the masonry flue (with stainless), and hopefully get enough additional height from removing the Class A section that's there (if it works that way), and/or from use of a flexible liner, to connect the stove up with proper slope back towards the stove.
Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated. FWIW, all of you here have been very patient and helpful. It's much appreciated.
It turns out that my 'horizontal' run to a ceramic lined masonry chimney is actually very slightly reverse -sloped. To the tune of a 1/4" in two feet. So, free liquid would flow towards the chimney, if present. I see three possible options (maybe more, but these seem most practical to me at the moment - being too early):
1. Minor issue, don't worry about it, just go ahead and connect it back up (with proper piping, combustibles clearances, and the like).
2. Get a short leg kit for the stove, and find someway of connecting a slightly shorter stove into the wall (I don't think you could just deflect Class A and/or double wall pipe that much at the joints). I'm also assuming I could use this kit or something similar - (broken link removed).
3. Keep (or shorten, as needed) the current legs for the stove, reline the masonry flue (with stainless), and hopefully get enough additional height from removing the Class A section that's there (if it works that way), and/or from use of a flexible liner, to connect the stove up with proper slope back towards the stove.
Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated. FWIW, all of you here have been very patient and helpful. It's much appreciated.