Replacing Firebrick

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

Paul_NJ

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 2, 2005
8
Morristown, New Jersey
I bought a used Timberline stove to put in my barn workshop for $200. Other than being well used, the only problem was that much of the firebrick was broken. I purchased new fire brick "shorts" (4" x 8" x 1 1/4" thick) at my local stone supplier.

Here's my questions:

1. Can I cut firebrick with a tile saw? I'm just concerned whether my wet diamond blade will stand up as well to firebrick as it does to tile.

2. The bricks stand on end around the steels walls inside the stove. If there were ever any top brackets to hold the firebrick in place, they are gone. Should I find some 1" angle iron and tack weld them against the top of the firebricks, or cement the bricks to each other with some sort of refractory cement?

Any help would be appreciated!
 
Paul, I can't answer #1, but can offer some possible insight to #2. My new Osburn didn't have anythign holding the side bricks in place, just kept in place by the floor bricks. I suspect they should be loose and cementing them in with refractory cement is either overkill or dangerous. It might transfer too much heat to the steel. I'd keep em loose.
 
You can cut firebrick with an ordinary masonry-cutting wheel, so a wet diamond ought to work even better.

If the bricks are tight against each other, which they should be, you probably don't need a retaining bracket. Gravity ought to do the trick if they're in there nice and snug.
 
Yep, like Eric says, the diamond or masonry blade should work fine. Cut a set for my stove last year and used a dry diamond blade. Little dusty but worked like a champ. As far as the top bracket, my stove has one of those as well. I replaced some of it...1-1/2" angle bracket, 3/16" thick. This allows you to weld directly to the stove wall and makes a 1-5/16" space under the bracket for the firebrick...which works perfectly. I laid a solid bead across my angle...the old angle had a series of 1" welds every 3" or so. With the heating/cooling cycles of the stove, the bracket got nice and wavy. With welding the bracket solid, it expands/contracts as a unit and eliminates any warping. Also, leave the bracket above the brick 3/8" or so...this way you can slide the brick underneath...if the bracket is down tight on the brick it will be stuck for ever and a new brick will not fit in.

If you want a pic or more info just let me know.

Corey
 
Where do you guys get your firebrick?
 
Most masonry supplies retailers have them. If you can get you hands on a wet saw cut common fire brick to the same width as the ones you are replacing you can get 2 to a brick. If you wanted to, purchace dry refactory cement mix and make up a mold. Mix the cement and pour it into the mold
 
hi paul, i have a timberline also. the bricks lined the floor and the sides , across the top was a piece of metal . my chimmney connection is on top . the bricks fit snuggly across the bottom and on the sides. the bracket runs horizontal about 2/3 of the way up.and i didn't even know they were there until i tried transporting it. one fell out and then i realized they were there. took them all out and removed the doors made it alot easier to manuever. only problem is never noticed how they were situated . haven't installed it yet .township wants the manual for specs and i can't get it. do you have one? good luck , john jackson , n.j.
 
Hey tugs: I forwarded a link to Bob Villa forum where a guy says he will mail you a Timberland Manual. Did yo save that link on the old forum. Sorry to say I warned you about unlisted stoves and permits. But I will be thinking where I can find one to help you. I mean its looking for some thing 30 years old.
 
JohnnyTugs1 said:
hi paul, i have a timberline also. the bricks lined the floor and the sides , across the top was a piece of metal . my chimmney connection is on top . the bricks fit snuggly across the bottom and on the sides. the bracket runs horizontal about 2/3 of the way up.and i didn't even know they were there until i tried transporting it. one fell out and then i realized they were there. took them all out and removed the doors made it alot easier to manuever. only problem is never noticed how they were situated . haven't installed it yet .township wants the manual for specs and i can't get it. do you have one? good luck , john jackson , n.j.


Johnny

Sorry, I purchased my Timberline last year second hand and the previous owner never mentioned a manual. My stove sounds just like yours except for the brackets (which I have none). Does the bracket hook over the top of the bricks? My side bricks fell out when I transported my stove as well, but the floor bricks didn't and are in their original arrangement. I'd be glad to post photos of the inside to show how they are situated if that would help. Seems like a good stove based upon how heavy it was to move but I haven't connected it up yet either.

Paul
 
paul,

the band ran horizontal across the back and sides, the first course i think ran vertical the second ran horizontal and the third was again vertical. when i get home (around the 14th of december or so) i will ck it out for ya and let ya know for sure . i'll also get the placement of the flat stock (band) dimensions. i will take the picture of the base brick layout to make things easier. thanks for your help and if i get a copy of the manual i will forward it to ya. all the best to ya .
john : )
 
elki,
i would be forever greatful to you .i 'm not sure which address your talking about (link). for the bob villa site?i believe i have it but will gladly take it again. yes you did give me the heads up and i'm trying my best to make everyone happy. i'll be getting underway soon so i'll check back with ya in a day or two.
thanks again. if you need my home address or any info let me know .
john : )
 
JohnnyTugs1 said:
paul,

the band ran horizontal across the back and sides, the first course i think ran vertical the second ran horizontal and the third was again vertical. when i get home (around the 14th of december or so) i will ck it out for ya and let ya know for sure . i'll also get the placement of the flat stock (band) dimensions. i will take the picture of the base brick layout to make things easier. thanks for your help and if i get a copy of the manual i will forward it to ya. all the best to ya .
john : )


Johnny

Thanks for your reply. Looking inside of my stove there is a row of split (1 1/4 inch thick) bricks around the perimeter which stand an inch higher than, and outside of, the floor bricks. I believe they sit horizontally. The floor bricks lie flat inside of that, and hold the perimeter bricks against the steel walls. I don't know if the floor bricks are splits or full width bricks. But all of that is tight and still in place. The stove rode on it's back when I transported it home, and they didn't budge, so I'm leaving that part alone.

The rest of the bricks that were along the walls, except for one or two bricks in the corners, fell out. But they sat vertically (on end). I'll have to cut a couple bricks the long way to make a tight wall. Perhaps that will be enough to hold all the bricks of that row in place. I didn't think there was another row above that one, but I would have no way to know. Now you have me thinking that there might have been. But there is no band of any sort at the top. Seems like there should be to keep everything else inplace. I'll post a photo of the inside and outside to see if were talking about the same stove - although I'm not sure yet how to do that on this forum.
 
paul,
here is a picture of mine ,there are some small horizontally cut pieces that fit to keep it tight. for example 2" by the legnth ,maybe 6-8" long.

elki, still waiting for yer reply on the bob villa link , do i need to contact someone there?
thanks ,
john
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Replacing Firebrick
    MY WOOD STOVE.webp
    29.3 KB · Views: 3,190
Hi folks,
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I just got one of these old timberlines myself. It seems to have all the necessary bricks, but I can't figure out how they are supposed to be arranged along the bottom and sides. For those discussing the availability of a manual - does anyone have it?

Thanks.
 
ugga, what a great stove man! i believe i may have something that should be good enough to present to the inspection dept. send me an email and i'll find it and get it to you. i am at sea until wed. when i return home if you remind me i will get you the brick configuration as well. what size stove is it?
John
917- eight 42-one 8 09
Johnnytugs1at gmail dot com
 
Status
Not open for further replies.