We recently bought a house that had a Ventis 240 stove installed into an existing fireplace. Since the day we bought the house six months ago, we would smell a strong scent of soot/burnt wood coming from around the stove and flashing. It would not happen all the time but it was frequent enough to be annoying. I searched and searched the internet for a similar problem but wasn't able to find anything. Frustrated after trying multiple things to stop the smell from entering the house, I finally had the stove removed so the fireplace could be fully inspected. Attached is what we found. The Ventis 240 stove that the prior owner purchased was a bit too large for the fireplace and so it appears they just chiseled away at the firebrick to make room for the stove. In doing so, I was able to find at least one hole that was letting in a nice flow of air. I confirmed this by using a smoke pen. Currently, I have the fireplace sealed up and the Ventis 240 is sitting in my garage. I'd like to repair the fire brick, and I'm wondering the best way to do that which doesn't require me to chisel out this mess and replace it with new brick. Can I mix up something like Heat Stop 40 refractory heat cement and just fill in the gaps flush to the surface or do I need to do something more complicated?
Repair Fire Brick
- Thread starter joshmus1
- Start date
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We did not get an inspection on this one. I'm not sure an inspector would have pulled the stove out to see this mess anyways.
I am not sure a hole in the masonry fireplace would lead to a smell; air may come in there but there should be no smelly stuff back there (if there is you have much bigger problems).
Instead I suspect your flue was not cleaned before the liner was put in and smelly cold air so ks down from there. It may need pulling the liner and cleaning the flue. Then an insulated and sealed block off plate should be installed.
Instead I suspect your flue was not cleaned before the liner was put in and smelly cold air so ks down from there. It may need pulling the liner and cleaning the flue. Then an insulated and sealed block off plate should be installed.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
does the liner run all the way to the top? Do you want to keep the Ventis?
I would verify the line runs all the way up. Then pull it up enough to verify that the masonry chimney is clean. If not pull it out and have it cleaned. Then insulate it and reinstall the liner to the stove or insert if your choice.
I’m not concerned about the clearances firebrick. You don’t want an open fireplace.
I would verify the line runs all the way up. Then pull it up enough to verify that the masonry chimney is clean. If not pull it out and have it cleaned. Then insulate it and reinstall the liner to the stove or insert if your choice.
I’m not concerned about the clearances firebrick. You don’t want an open fireplace.
The SS liner does run all the way to the top. I think we may get rid of the Ventis. I have never used a wood stove and don't feel confident enough to start. I can see past the old damper location around the liner. It is definitely not clean.
I had a similar situation and used a piece of 16 ga. cold rolled flat steel to cover the opening. I painted it black, used high temp silicone to seal it, and installed some masonry anchors. If you go with this method, you may want to "skin" all 3 sides for aesthetics.
CanFireman
Member
Chiseling that brick out as shown has compromised the masonry fireplace. No longer suitable for any wood-burning fireplace insert. Best to have this repaired before using.
In that case you need to remove the liner clean everything properly then reinstal properly with insulation and a bockoff plate etc
How can you tell? There is very likely still enough masonry thickness there to meet requirments
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