Removing baffle of Hearthstone Mansfield.

[Marty]

Wondering whats involved in removing the baffle on the Hearthstone Mansfield.

Thinking when I get around to cleaning it it would be easiest to brush down into the stove rather than disconect the flex and pull the stove out.

So is this relativly simple or should I just forget about that idea altogether?

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

its not that hard, its just the burn tubes get in the way, its best to disconnect the stove and go from the pipe bottem up.

 

[Marty]

its not that hard, its just the burn tubes get in the way, its best to disconnect the stove and go from the pipe bottem up.

So the burn tubes don't like to come out eh. Too bad I have real easy access to the split level gently sloped roof so sweeping down into the stove would have been perfect. Thanks for the info MSG.

 

[DriftWood]

If the ceramic baffle is not loose be careful ! When assembled they are sealed in place with a furnace cement. I don't think you could get it out with out braking it. The baffle is thin and soft be careful. mine on a Heritage care loose in about a month. It will angle down and out on edge through the baffles after being lifted up out of place. I was surprised to find long beads of cement from the baffle seal in the rear flue exit of the stove.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

the baffle is cemented in so it will survive shipping. All of mine have came out too. There supposed to do that, they are replaceable, and cememting them in again doesnt make sense.

 

[Marty]

So what's involved in replacing the burn tubes?.. just take out the baffle first?

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

Marty, i will look, i have never had to replace one in the ten years i have sold them.

 

[Marty]

Marty, i will look, i have never had to replace one in the ten years i have sold them.

No rush... but thanks.
Just thought it would be good to know and take this thread title to it's logical conclusion.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

looks like there is a pin in on the left side on one of the tubes that removes the tube, which then allows you remove the rest because there is a retainer on the right.. you will have to look at it, my descriptipn is not very good.

 

[Marty]

looks like there is a pin in on the left side on one of the tubes that removes the tube, which then allows you remove the rest because there is a retainer on the right.. you will have to look at it, my descriptipn is not very good.

Thanks.
I'll take a peak when she cools down in the spring.

 

[Gooserider]

I would think that the question of being able to clean "through" the stove is an important one for some users, especially folks with inserts. I don't see it as being quite so critical with a freestanding stove since it usually isn't a big deal to pull the pipe off a stove. However the notion of horsing an insert in and out of a hearth a couple times a year doesn't exactly appeal, not to mention that most inserts look like it would be a royal PITA to get the liner connected / disconnected...

Plus there are probably a fair number of folks with chimneys like mine that are relatively non accessible to get at from the top.... I'd not only want something I could brush the soot into from the bottom, but something that I could put the brush into the pipe through the stove and clean from the bottom up... (Again, more of an insert issue)

At least I have a "T" on the back of our stove, so once you get the stove out of the way, or at least get past it, you can pull the cap off the bottom leg of the "T" and go up through the bottom that way.

Goosrider

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

some how, some way, you need access to the top. The cap needs to be cleaned. In the relativly short box like a insert has, it would be near impossible to get a brush up the chimney with the standard 4' rod. If the chimney is unaccesable its time to call in the pro sweep.

 

[Gooserider]

some how, some way, you need access to the top. The cap needs to be cleaned. In the relativly short box like a insert has, it would be near impossible to get a brush up the chimney with the standard 4' rod. If the chimney is unaccesable its time to call in the pro sweep.

We did call the "Pro-sweep", two times so far. - he took one look at our chimney, muttered something untranslatable under his breath (I think it was Czech or equivalent) and cleaned it from the bottom.... He used what I think is one of those $500 "Viper" coil rod setups - one reason I've been talking about trying to do a poor mans alternative with a plumbing snake...

He did go to the top once, to put on a new cap that may not be a 100% kosher setup from what I've read here (explained below), though it was a commercial product that claimed on the box to be designed for our style of chimney. It took him three ladders to get there, and took longer to setup than the cap installation took. I'm not particularly uncomfortable with heights, but the setup made me nervous though I didn't see a realistic way to do it better.

Elk has seen our chimney, and I think he would agree that it's a real bear to get at. The main roof of the house is a 12/12 pitch (or 45注), the brick double flue chimney is built just inside the wall (nothing shows on the side of the house) and comes out about a foot from the edge of the house in the approximate middle of the roof run. On the upper side of the roof, the chimney is about 7' tall. (about 28 rows of bricks). It is about 22'-25' from the ground to the edge of the roof at the point where the chimney is at. There is a laundry room that comes out of the house (another 12/12 pitch roof)at a 90注 angle to the house with it's lower edge about even with the lower edge of the house roof. The sweep and I used one ladder to go from the ground to the laundry room, then laid a second ladder with a roof hook onto the house roof on the inside of the chimney, then jammed a short stepladder in between the roof and the upper side of the chimney. This let him get up far enough to put the cap on and screw it down on three sides

Thus far we've been burning all season on the new cap, and I see no sign of significant creosote buildup, (and given our stove that is saying something...) The cap is a single stainless 'roof' with a stainless mesh screen on it, that looks like approx 1/2" expanded material.

The possible problem is that it is a double flue chimney, w/ two 8/8 flue tiles, at least one of which is lined w/ a 6" SS liner. Both flues are at the same level, and the cap is covering both flues. The original setup had two mismatched caps which were at slightly different levels, such that it looked like rain on one of them would be funnelled down the flue of the other. The new cap solves that problem, but I think I've seen something that says if two flues share the same chimney, they are supposed to be different heights? - I don't quite understand this as it would seem to me like if they were different heights, the lower flue would inherently be violating the 2-3-10 rule on clearances...

At any rate, so far we haven't had any problems, so I'm not planning to mess with the setup unless we see a definite reason that OUR specific chimney needs something different to be done.

Gooserider