Recommend an upgrade to a Jotul 602C...

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

mmcc

Member
Dec 12, 2016
67
Northeast Ohio
(Note: I tried posting this on the Classic Wood Stoves forum but didn't get any bites, so I'm trying again here...)

I currently have a Jotul 602C in my masonry fireplace, with a 6" stainless steel liner going up my chimney.

The 602C is a nice little stove, but it doesn't throw off enough heat for my purposes, and I'm looking for an upgrade. Some considerations...

- I'd like to get something used
- The fireplace opening is 26 1/2" high, 37" wide, and 22" deep. The hearth sticks out 18" from the opening.
- I want to tie into the stainless steel liner in the chimney.
- If it matters, I'm located in Northeast Ohio.
- I'm willing to do some modification, like shortening legs, if necessary.

Any thoughts? I thought a Jotul 118 sitting on the hearth with the flue going into one of the side ports would be nice, but I don't know if I can safely lower one enough to make it work.
 

Attachments

  • Recommend an upgrade to a Jotul 602C...
    jotul602.JPG
    100.5 KB · Views: 153
You can also consider any number of modern inserts.
 
Is there a block-off plate in the chimney at the damper area or lower?
 
You can also consider any number of modern inserts.
I'll certainly keep watching for them on Craigslist, but they seem to be few and far between. Lots of Hearth Mates and the like.


Is there a block-off plate in the chimney at the damper area or lower?
I didn't install the liner, so I'm not real sure what is up there. I just took a peek, and the area between the line and the chimney seems to be stuffed with what looks like yellow insulation batting.
 
Jotul F400 or F500. Both have short leg kits.
You could also do the insert series. I believe the largest insert, C550, would fit. If you don't run a SS flex liner down the chimney your stove won't operate as well. Down drafts, etc could be an issue.
 
I didn't install the liner, so I'm not real sure what is up there. I just took a peek, and the area between the line and the chimney seems to be stuffed with what looks like yellow insulation batting.
So that is likely fiberglass insulation, not good for a hot liner to be sitting up against it, but it is probably blocking some heat from heading up the chimney. The proper insulation to stuff up there is Roxul.
 
If you are trying to keep costs down look at medium sized inserts from Century, Englander, Drolet, True North, and Heatilator.
 
You could also do the insert series. I believe the largest insert, C550, would fit.

If you are trying to keep costs down look at medium sized inserts from Century, Englander, Drolet, True North, and Heatilator.

So this fireplace has a twin on the other end of the house, in which I have a C550 insert. I've not been super impressed with the amount of heat I'm getting out of it - my theory is that a lot of the warmth is being sucked up by the bricks. So, I'd like either an insert that protrudes from the fireplace onto the hearth significantly, or a stove.

I'll look out for those brands.
 
So that is likely fiberglass insulation, not good for a hot liner to be sitting up against it, but it is probably blocking some heat from heading up the chimney. The proper insulation to stuff up there is Roxul.

So how concerned should I be about this? I've been there for several years, and I like to run my stove on the hot side - so far the insulation hasn't caught fire. So far.
 
I won't catch fire but it can melt.
 
Worst thing about fiberglass insulation, besides melting, is that it lets air pass thru it.
 
I'm partial to Lopi stoves in the used market. Heavy steel, well built, still supported by the company, which has been in business a long time. I also like freestanders, which you are used to. Not sure what will fit there. Look for a used Endeavor or Liberty. Probably can remove or shorten legs if needed. Look for these models or a single door unit (the double door Lopis are all at least 20 years old by now). Standard weld issues, cracks, overfiring signs, air tubes, are things to check. Remove the door (very easy) before you attempt to move one (saves the expensive glass from risk of breakage). I had the predecessor to the Endeavor and removed the side heat shield for better heat transfer since I had all the necessary clearances. You can move air with just a small fan blowing across the thing. I currently have a Lopi Freedom Bay Insert and had an insert prior; inserts require a fan to move the air, and most of the blower units are in the hundreds to replace (and they don't all last more than a few years).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.