Real stone veneer vs. manufactured?

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gman1001

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Jan 9, 2006
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For my stove surround - considering the owens corning stuff.

Anyone have experience with the heat retention qualities of the 'fake' stuff vs. real?
 
gman1001 said:
For my stove surround - considering the owens corning stuff.

Anyone have experience with the heat retention qualities of the 'fake' stuff vs. real?

Good question. As a newbie yet to install, I do not have any firsthand experience. My first thought on the subject would be since the veneer has less mass---less "stuff" there---the heat retention would be less than real, and thicker, stone.

But I am not a physicist either, so that's just my guess.

BTB
 
I'm not sure if the manufacturers have that info. I have manufactured stone behind my stove. I check it to make sure it's not getting too hot and it always feels nice and warm.

Here's a picture:
 

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CountryGal said:
I'm not sure if the manufacturers have that info. I have manufactured stone behind my stove. I check it to make sure it's not getting too hot and it always feels nice and warm.

Here's a picture:

Very nice. What brand and model name is that stone?

BTB
 
BTB said:
CountryGal said:
I'm not sure if the manufacturers have that info. I have manufactured stone behind my stove. I check it to make sure it's not getting too hot and it always feels nice and warm.

Here's a picture:

Very nice. What brand and model name is that stone?

BTB

It's a Country S160 Striker by Country Stoves.

Here's my thread on the removal of "Old Smokey" and the installation of the new stove:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/3455/
 
On a related note - If you add this type of veneer to a combustible wall, say sheetrock, do you then measure the clearance from the face of the veneer? Installation procedures for the veneer don't seem to ever include any type of air gap or combustible products.

Last time I tried to look at the Country site which is a local company, the browser was redirected to Lennox which appears to have bought out Country. Too bad.
 
Highbeam said:
On a related note - If you add this type of veneer to a combustible wall, say sheetrock, do you then measure the clearance from the face of the veneer? Installation procedures for the veneer don't seem to ever include any type of air gap or combustible products.

Last time I tried to look at the Country site which is a local company, the browser was redirected to Lennox which appears to have bought out Country. Too bad.

AFAIK, if you are not using an NFPA clearance reducing setup, you measure to the outside surface. of the wall. If you are using a clearance reducing strategy, then you get a double bonus, first the clearance required is reduced, and it's measured from the original wall rather than the clearance reduction wall.

As long as the veneer itself is non-combustible (check the mfgr tech info to be sure), and it's mounted to non-combustible backing material, with non-combustible materials, there is no reason I'm aware of that you can't mount the backing using standard NFPA air gaps and techniques to get a reduced clearance install. I could see ways to do it in my mind that could result in a really nice looking setup.

Gooserider
 
Highbeam said:
Last time I tried to look at the Country site which is a local company, the browser was redirected to Lennox which appears to have bought out Country. Too bad.

Yeah you're right, they were taken over/bought by Lennox. Lennox plans to maintain the line though although I think I read that they were going to improve Country's manufacturing facilities.
 
Country is local and makes nice stoves. I hope Lennox is not the KOD for the company.
 
Yes, local is very local for me. I sat in the living room with the guy who's name is written on the back of the country stoves he makes. He is a welder/fabricator and signs the stoves in this small shop. Several members of the founding family live up here in the hills.
 
Hey gman, I did a pretty big wall bump out in cultured stone. One bit of advice, the board samples in most showrooms are very different than what you get. The best advice someone gave me is when you find the manufacturer and style stone you like, buy a box of it first. Bring it home and see how it looks. We bought 2 boxes from another manufacturer and it didn't look anything like their sample. Reds and oranges seem to be the worst colors. Luckily we were only out the cost of the box (70 bucks a box non returnable). 70 bucks x 2 is 140 so it was expensive but not as painful had we ordered all the materials and no returns. We finally went with Owens and their product while a bit pricier was spot on.

our cultured does get hot but not hot enough for me to worry.

good luck with the project and if you have any questions let me know.

here are some pics from the install of the stone. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/1992/

matt
 
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