Hi, my stove is not feeding pellets. I put a jumper wire between the 2 vacuum switch leads, and there's still no voltage to the auger. The thermostat is on, the control box shows the red call-for-heat light, and flashes blue 6 times. I removed the power cord, reseated the control box, and switched back on. It still calls for heat but no voltage to the auger. I'm not sure what else to check, please advise.
QuadraFire Castile Auger No Power
- Thread starter IanS
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Check the hopper lid magnetic switch (a pellet or small peace
of pellet on the hopper rim will not allow the hopper switch to work)
Check snap disc ##2
Is the combustion Fan working?
If you do not have a manual here is one
of pellet on the hopper rim will not allow the hopper switch to work)
Check snap disc ##2
Is the combustion Fan working?
If you do not have a manual here is one
I have continuity across the hopper-lid's leads when the lid is closed. A handful of pellets in the burn-pot does ignite.
Snap disc 2 (if that's the one on the auger housing, behind the vacuum tube when viewed from the RHS) shows continuity. I tried replacing this with a jumper lead, plugged power back in and called for heat, still no power to the auger.
Yes, the exhaust fan starts up a few seconds after the unit is plugged in, with or without call for heat.
When not calling for heat, the auger power connector shows ~1.6VAC. When calling for heat (red light on), it goes to ~2.1VAC.
The control box works fine on another Quadrafire stove (CB1200, and I moved the box's selector dial to the correct number before installing).
So I'm stuck. I've tried bypassing the vacuum switch, bypassing snap disc 2, confirmed the ignitor is working, and swapped out the control box. I note from the circuit diagram that there's a capacitor between snap disc 2 and the feed motor, could this be the problem? I've no idea where that capacitor is, or how I can test it.
The auger not turning (I can see thru the gap on the lid), and my DMM shows < 3 volts AC at the auger's power connector.
Could a bad thermocouple cause the stove to not start? There's no warning light at the control box, but I can't think what else to check.
I think I'd start tracing 120 volts from the board to the auger
if the red wire has power to vac switch and so on
could be the board has lost its magic smoke
if the red wire has power to vac switch and so on
could be the board has lost its magic smoke
Sorry, but... what board? As stated above, I swapped out the control box with another Quadrafire unit, and it's working fine. I tested 115vAC across Snap Disc 1. Am just trying to figure out how to test voltage at the vac switch.
I'm wondering if this is a problem with this connector the control box plugs into, or maybe the wiring behind it that I can't see. The design seems amateurish, this connector is the only thing holding the control box in-place.
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What you want to test is the vac switch wire from the board if 120 jump the vac switch
then test the wire at the hopper if 120 jump the hopper wires test the wire at the snap disc
#2 if 120 jump the switch and test at the auger motor for 120. If you lose power at any
switch then the wire from the previous switch is bad, find the broken spot and repair
then test the wire at the hopper if 120 jump the hopper wires test the wire at the snap disc
#2 if 120 jump the switch and test at the auger motor for 120. If you lose power at any
switch then the wire from the previous switch is bad, find the broken spot and repair
OK I ran tests again... am losing voltage at the vacuum switch. Jumped that again, and this time the auger worked. Weird that it didn't before.
So now I need to figure out where the vacuum problem is. The vac tube is clear and the switch itself is working normally.
ARC
Minister of Fire
Check vacuum switch silicone hose end next to firebox is it dried out and cracked?
And of course clean, clean,clean. A handful of ash in the wrong place will stop vacuum.
And of course clean, clean,clean. A handful of ash in the wrong place will stop vacuum.
Gasket on the door sides are tight. Along the top I was able to pull the dollar bill out, with some resistance. At the bottom of the door, there's no gasket, the bill slips through. The firepot gasket looks OK, and the firepot door is closed.
The little vacuum hose looks good, no cracks, not brittle. The firebox-side vacuum nipple had no resistance when I pushed in a straight paperclip, so that seems clear. I checked the chimney, and that's clear.
I guess I'll just keep vacuuming, maybe start taking apart the exhaust pipe leading to the chimney.
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