Quad Castile Insert - shuts down unexpectedly

[iamdrumming]

Hi everyone.. these forums have helped me aout a lot.. thanks!

I'm still working on an issue with my Quadra Fire Casile Insert..
The stove fires up and runs perfectly fine for awhile (sometimes as much as a few hours) and then suddenly it just shuts down.
Once cool, we hit reset and it all start all over again.

We have done the following:
- Completely cleaned the stove top to bottom including pulling it out and removing the three metal panels and cleaning and inspecting both blowers. We inspected all the pipes going to the outside and cleaned all of them as best we could (they weren't really that dirty).
- Removed the auger to inspect and completely cleaned the chute
- Replaced the Thermal Coupler

We put it all back together last night, ran it for a few hours last night, no issues.
We fired it up again this morning, no issues. My wife just called and said it started shutting down as soon as she added more pellets. So, it ran for a good three hours this morning on high with no problems.

- Could the pellets be getting stuck and not feeding properly? The dealer recommeded we spray the hopper with Pledge so they slide easier.. haven't tried that yet.
- It almost seems like the stove thinks its too hot and is shutting down due to an over fire condition. Is this possible?
The Snap Disk on the chute to the firebox resets itself automatically right? This make sense since once its cool, we can hit the rest button and it fires up alright. Could the Snap Disk be defective? Could it be the control box? Should I try cleaning the terminals on it?
5 degrees in Windham NH this morning, so we really need the heat!
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[kinsmanstoves]

Hi everyone.. these forums have helped me aout a lot.. thanks!

I'm still working on an issue with my Quadra Fire Casile Insert..
The stove fires up and runs perfectly fine for awhile (sometimes as much as a few hours) and then suddenly it just shuts down.
Once cool, we hit reset and it all start all over again.

We have done the following:
- Completely cleaned the stove top to bottom including pulling it out and removing the three metal panels and cleaning and inspecting both blowers. We inspected all the pipes going to the outside and cleaned all of them as best we could (they weren't really that dirty).
- Removed the auger to inspect and completely cleaned the chute
- Replaced the Thermal Coupler

We put it all back together last night, ran it for a few hours last night, no issues.
We fired it up again this morning, no issues. My wife just called and said it started shutting down as soon as she added more pellets. So, it ran for a good three hours this morning on high with no problems.

- Could the pellets be getting stuck and not feeding properly? The dealer recommeded we spray the hopper with Pledge so they slide easier.. haven't tried that yet.
- It almost seems like the stove thinks its too hot and is shutting down due to an over fire condition. Is this possible?
The Snap Disk on the chute to the firebox resets itself automatically right? This make sense since once its cool, we can hit the rest button and it fires up alright. Could the Snap Disk be defective? Could it be the control box? Should I try cleaning the terminals on it?
5 degrees in Windham NH this morning, so we really need the heat!
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rob

At what setting is this happening?
Do you have a wireless remote, change batteries?
If wired thermostat check it to make sure it is working correctly.

Eric

 

[iamdrumming]

We've tried it on all three settings.. doesn't seem to matter.
Today it started shutting down on high.
No remote and we do not use a thermostat.. we just have it wired to an on/off switch.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[kinsmanstoves]

Then I would look at the negative pressure air switch, very unlikely to go bad.

Clean the venting. I mean clean not look at it and think it is clean. The best way is to take it apart. If that can not be done run a brush through every inch of the pipe. Make sure the cap is clean also.

Check the door gasket using the dollar bill test. Check the ash pan gasket.

Eric

 

[iamdrumming]

Thanks.. I'll try those suggestions and let you know.

 

[kinsmanstoves]

Also check the hose connected to the air switch. Do not blow into the switch, disconnect the hose and blow into the stove to make sure it is not clogged. I have found a switch works or it does not. There is not "going bad".

Eric

 

[iamdrumming]

That must not be the problem then.. when we had the stove all pulled apart, we blew compressed air through the tube (while disconnected on both ends). We also blew air through the hole on the auger chute too. If the vacuum switch were bad, it would not feed pellets at all right?
We're now looking at the seals around the door and firepot. What gets me is that it runs fine for awhile and then BAM, just starts shutting down! Driving us nuts!

Thanks

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

That must not be the problem then.. when we had the stove all pulled apart, we blew compressed air through the tube (while disconnected on both ends). We also blew air through the hole on the auger chute too. If the vacuum switch were bad, it would not feed pellets at all right?
We're now looking at the seals around the door and firepot. What gets me is that it runs fine for awhile and then BAM, just starts shutting down! Driving us nuts!

Thanks

Is the convection blower the first thing that shuts down?

 

[kinsmanstoves]

That must not be the problem then.. when we had the stove all pulled apart, we blew compressed air through the tube (while disconnected on both ends). We also blew air through the hole on the auger chute too. If the vacuum switch were bad, it would not feed pellets at all right?
We're now looking at the seals around the door and firepot. What gets me is that it runs fine for awhile and then BAM, just starts shutting down! Driving us nuts!

Thanks

Go to the venting. clean clean and clean it again.

Do not worry about the firepot gasket. Only way it will act up is if it is missing.

 

[iamdrumming]

The convection blower continues to run as designed for ~ 10 minutes after shut down is initiated.
Its like someone turned it off.
My wife is home with it.. she waits for the geen light to come on and then she hits reset and it starts up again.
The only place the venting can be dirty is outside the house. We completely cleaned and inspected everything up to the pipe leading outside which is a straight 3 ft piece of direct vent pipe through the wall. Not really much there..

 

[kinsmanstoves]

After the vacuum switch check the #2 snap disk (orange wires). Check the connections and the condition of the switch. There is a slim chance this might be acting up.

Eric

 

[kinsmanstoves]

The convection blower continues to run as designed for ~ 10 minutes after shut down is initiated.
Its like someone turned it off.
My wife is home with it.. she waits for the geen light to come on and then she hits reset and it starts up again.
The only place the venting can be dirty is outside the house. We completely cleaned and inspected everything up to the pipe leading outside which is a straight 3 ft piece of direct vent pipe through the wall. Not really much there..

"inspected" before or after the problem started?

Eric

 

[iamdrumming]

Do you think I should bypass the vacuum switch first? Am I checking the #2 snap disk when shut down is initiated? Wil it be popped out or something? How wil I know it was trggered? Should I do this before bypassing the vacuum switch? By "switch", you mean check the switch the thermostat wires are connected to? Should I just connect these leads together and see what happens?

Thanks!

 

[iamdrumming]

[email protected][/email]]

The convection blower continues to run as designed for ~ 10 minutes after shut down is initiated.
Its like someone turned it off.
My wife is home with it.. she waits for the geen light to come on and then she hits reset and it starts up again.
The only place the venting can be dirty is outside the house. We completely cleaned and inspected everything up to the pipe leading outside which is a straight 3 ft piece of direct vent pipe through the wall. Not really much there..

"inspected" before or after the problem started?

Eric

We've been working this problem for a few weeks.. so, everything I've mentioned has been done since the problem started. Could Snap Disk #2 be defective and reporting a false over heating condition?

 

[kinsmanstoves]

[email protected][/email]]

The convection blower continues to run as designed for ~ 10 minutes after shut down is initiated.
Its like someone turned it off.
My wife is home with it.. she waits for the geen light to come on and then she hits reset and it starts up again.
The only place the venting can be dirty is outside the house. We completely cleaned and inspected everything up to the pipe leading outside which is a straight 3 ft piece of direct vent pipe through the wall. Not really much there..

"inspected" before or after the problem started?

Eric

We've been working this problem for a few weeks.. so, everything I've mentioned has been done since the problem started. Could Snap Disk #2 be defective and reporting a false over heating condition?

Yes this can be the issue. I would bypass the #2 snap disk and see what happens. Keep an eye on the stove cause bypassing a safety device is a temporary "check" and not to be used for a long period of time.

If this does not work do the same to the pressure switch.

Eric

 

[iamdrumming]

That's my next move.. I'll update ASAP.. probably not till tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[tjnamtiw]

No one has mentioned pellet length. Are you finding any pellets that are 2" long or more? I had the same problem the first year I ran my stoves because the pellets clogged up the feed gate going into the auger and also, many times, bridged over the top of the chute. With it restarting when hitting the reset, that may not be it but still worth a try.
You're right though about the vacuum switch. If it's bad, you wouldn't get any pellets at all. You mentioned it happened once when your wife added pellets. My older stoves don't have hopper switches but I wonder if the new stoves have them and yours is out of adjustment.

Jumping #2 snap disk TEMPORARILY makes sense to rule it out. Remember that it's a safety to prevent hopper fires so don't leave home!

Added> you might want to open up the feed gate just in case the pellets are too long and see if it stays running. That solved my problem with the longer pellets. Did you set the flame height on HIGH to 4" like the manual explains?

 

[iamdrumming]

The pellets seem fine.. none nearly that long. No hopper switch that I am aware of.
I think everything is adjusted right because when it is running, everything is perfect!

OK, so here's an update.. I feel pretty stupid, but whatever.. I'm new to all of this and I'm learning as I go!
I went to bypass Snap Disk # 2 and forgot to disconnect the power!! Big spark, smoke coming from the Control Box and a horrible smell coming from it.
The fuse was blown (obviously).. I replaced it and no power anywhere now that I can tell. Nothing happens at all.
So, unfortunately I think I fried the Control Box right?
How much will that set me back? Hopefully the local dealer has one.

Question on bypassing snap disks, switches, etc. AFTER REMOVING THE POWER (duh!), do I just connect the two wires together with a piece of wire and tape the ends up with electrical tape?

Thanks!
Rob

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

The pellets seem fine.. none nearly that long. No hopper switch that I am aware of.
I think everything is adjusted right because when it is running, everything is perfect!

OK, so here's an update.. I feel pretty stupid, but whatever.. I'm new to all of this and I'm learning as I go!
I went to bypass Snap Disk # 2 and forgot to disconnect the power!! Big spark, smoke coming from the Control Box and a horrible smell coming from it.
The fuse was blown (obviously).. I replaced it and no power anywhere now that I can tell. Nothing happens at all.
So, unfortunately I think I fried the Control Box right?
How much will that set me back? Hopefully the local dealer has one.

Question on bypassing snap disks, switches, etc. AFTER REMOVING THE POWER (duh!), do I just connect the two wires together with a piece of wire and tape the ends up with electrical tape?

Thanks!
Rob

Whenever you open up the covers on a stove to do anything except add pellets the stove should be off, cold, and unplugged this includes normal cleaning. You are lucky you didn't get zapped or burned.

The switches can be jumpered by using a small jumper made of a small length of insulated wire and spade lugs or insulated alligator clips. Your method would also work.

Remember 120 VAC can kill, burn out unintended items, cause sparks that can start fires, etc... always treat electricity with the utmost caution.

Unless you unplug the stove there is always 120 VAC inside the stove even when the stove is off.

 

[tjnamtiw]

Sounds like you learned a valuable lesson! If smoke was coming out of the control box and you have no power to anything including the red 'call' light, your box is probably toast. Take the box to your dealer and see if he will put it in one of the stoves he has on the floor to see if it works. Probably not. You'll be out $3-500. Shop around and some of the dealers on here may have a good price.
Smokey is ABSOLUTELY right. Don't mess with 120 volts. The only time you want to get in there with the power on is to check voltages with a meter and then be extra cautious and, in your case :lol: , wear rubber gloves......

There won't be anymore troubleshooting until you get power back. Hopefully, you didn't burn through any wires. It might be best to bite the bullet and let the dealer replace the box and check the wiring. It's on his dime then if more problems develop.

 

[iamdrumming]

Ouch! Yes, I did learn a lesson.

According to the manual, there are two separate parts related to the Control Board, but they're both listed under the same Item #:
Item # 20
Part # SRV7000-205 - Control Board 3 Speed
Part # 812-3780/10 - Fuse, 8 Amp, Control Box

Then there is a separate fuse to the left of the Control Board (the one I was able to pull and see burnt out) - 7Amp (my manual actually says .7 Amp(?)).
I replaced this one.

So, is there a second fuse I can replace or is the 8Amp (812-3780/10) located INSIDE the Control Box and not replaceable by me?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[tjnamtiw]

Ouch! Yes, I did learn a lesson.

According to the manual, there are two separate parts related to the Control Board, but they're both listed under the same Item #:
Item # 20
Part # SRV7000-205 - Control Board 3 Speed
Part # 812-3780/10 - Fuse, 8 Amp, Control Box

Then there is a separate fuse to the left of the Control Board (the one I was able to pull and see burnt out) - 7Amp (my manual actually says .7 Amp(?)).
I replaced this one.

So, is there a second fuse I can replace or is the 8Amp (812-3780/10) located INSIDE the Control Box and not replaceable by me?

Thanks,
Rob

There is one small fuse inside the control box but I believe it is 1/2 amp, if memory (what's left) serves me. I don't know of any others.

If you smelled a 'horrible smell' from the control box, it's more than a fuse problem! How old is your stove? Is it still under warranty? Of course, you probably voided it anyway, so first check with the dealer to see if he will test the control box. If it's bad, there's a thread in the archives listing the parts that go bad on the board, if you are so inclined. Chances are that it may be too far gone though. Wouldn't hurt to open it once you know it's bad. Maybe someone will come forward and volunteer to take a look at it and give you a guesstimate to fix it as a spare.

Good luck

 

[iamdrumming]

This is our 4th season. I doubt its under warranty.
I agree and think I just need to replace the whole board. Ugh!

 

[tjnamtiw]

This is our 4th season. I doubt its under warranty.
I agree and think I just need to replace the whole board. Ugh!

In that case, open the case up and look on the circuit board for anything that's burned or if the board itself is burned. If it is, then you must order a new one. Is anyone near you or will the dealer let you borrow a control box to try?

 

[stoveguy13]

after you get the box make sure the TC is all the way into the potyou can watch and see if the green light and the red light both come on befor it starts to shut down