Pulled the trigger and bought the garn

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hedge wood

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Mar 1, 2009
417
Eastern NE
With all the good things said on this forum about the garn I decided to buy the 2000 model. It seems things are a little slow for them and they have some 2000 models build ahead,so they are offering a small discount . I sent the check off today and will go to Mn in may and pick it up. It is seven hour drive one way for us which is not bad. We have a one ton ford diesel pickup and a trailer with 7000 pound axles so I didn't price getting it shipped. So the next step for now is to do the design to heat my shop which has floor heat and the house that has two propane furnaces. I will have lots of questions, but I know I am in good company. Thanks in advance.
 
Congrats! Here's to a fun 2009 for you! The install is a lot of fun, in my humble opinion....
 
Congratulations Hedgewood, and welcome to the Boiler Room.

I towed my WHS-2000 home with my wife's Jeep Commander (5.7 Hemi) and my flatbed trailer with dual 3.5k # axles. Piece of cake, even in the pouring rain. The 2000 weighs a bit over 4k #.

Be sure to document your project. Feel free to visit my web site to see how I went about it (link in my signature).

Best of luck.
 
I have the local Garn man coming to see me. Just wondering what sort of discounts there were.

And what are the must ask questions to make sure he knows his stuff?

He did say it was 50% down with order, is that the norm?
 
Durango
I think 50% down with the order is normal. We have no dealers here in Nebraska The factory won't sell direct so they made me go threw a dealer in MN. I have not phyisally saw the unit. All the talk about them and long live and the simple design speaks volumes.
The discount is not much $500.00 on a $15,000 dollar item. I had to sent a check for the full amount to get one reserved that the factory has built in stock . I don't necessary like to cut and split wood but I have a pasture full of hedge wood that needs cut. I use to burn wood for years when we lived at our other farm in a Lincoln stove made in Lincoln Nebraska a simple design like the garn and worked great. When we move about five years ago to this farm I said I would never burn wood again O'well never say never.
Now with propane 2.10 last year it is time to burn wood again. I think if you have room for the garn it is the way to go. I have lot of room in the building my shop is in for the garn. I hope I can get the garn installed for $5,000 in parts, will see.Good luck on your desison.
 
I was paying a lot more than 2.10 a year ago!

I am now a lot higher than Durango and its a lot colder. Must change my name.

I guess I was hoping that with the price of steel dropping there would be a corresponding drop in price, it seemed to work the other way.

The big bucks for me are in the radiators.

Good luck with your install, I will be watching progress.
 
Durango said:
I was paying a lot more than 2.10 a year ago!

I am now a lot higher than Durango and its a lot colder. Must change my name.

I guess I was hoping that with the price of steel dropping there would be a corresponding drop in price, it seemed to work the other way.

The big bucks for me are in the radiators.

Good luck with your install, I will be watching progress.

Durango - can you install staple up or some other kind of radiant tubing? If I were starting from scratch, I would do that in a heartbeat. My whole house was already plumbed in baseboard, so that is what I use. I can let the GARN get down to ~150 deg F before I have to fire it, but the radiant would give me another 20+ degrees of delta T before refiring.

Best of luck with your unit, whatever you choose. 1/3-1/2 deposit is common, dependant upon the dealer. Some have been screwed and had to eat the balance of the cost of the GARN so charge more up front.
 
The building is 110 years old, I may use UFH in one area but it would be a MAJOR hassle and cost for the building as a whole.

We also have extremes of weather, yesterday got to 58F, but 18F last night, 40 degree delta is not unusual. When the sun is shinning which it normally is, it can go from chilly in the morning to seriously hot in the afternoon due to solar gain, we have 53 large windows. So we need something that can respond quickly. On and off. I did see a very thin system that whent over existing floors, lost the link, but this was about 10mm (.4") thick. That responds a lot quicker but would still give us issues.

I did mention this on another thread, but I am currently considering either traditional school house type radiators or baseboard, not the fin type, basically they look like wood baseboard but are made of alumnium so ae effectively above floor radiant pipe. They can also work ok with lower temp water. Or possibly a mix of both.

I will post what happens, I know I am much better informed for reading others posts.
 
Durango said:
The building is 110 years old, I may use UFH in one area but it would be a MAJOR hassle and cost for the building as a whole.

We also have extremes of weather, yesterday got to 58F, but 18F last night, 40 degree delta is not unusual. When the sun is shinning which it normally is, it can go from chilly in the morning to seriously hot in the afternoon due to solar gain, we have 53 large windows. So we need something that can respond quickly. On and off. I did see a very thin system that whent over existing floors, lost the link, but this was about 10mm (.4") thick. That responds a lot quicker but would still give us issues.

I did mention this on another thread, but I am currently considering either traditional school house type radiators or baseboard, not the fin type, basically they look like wood baseboard but are made of alumnium so ae effectively above floor radiant pipe. They can also work ok with lower temp water. Or possibly a mix of both.

I will post what happens, I know I am much better informed for reading others posts.

You might want to investigate using a panel radiator system. Done right it would give you room by room control and the ability to use pretty low water temps from your Garn. Control options are limited only by your budget but they can be set up and used in a host of different configurations. My beginning advice would be to avoid undersizing the HX and the tubing .

Send me a PM if you want facts, figures or help with a panel rad system.
 
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