Proper Chimney Repair

[Gtmst3]

Hi all, I have an issue and I need help in the proper repair of my chimney,. I attempted to replace the cap or crown of my chimney which was crumbling due to age. Upon disassembly I noticed my liner was cracked at least 3 feet down. In addition to this there is alot of staining on the brick going further down than the crack is visible so I'm guessing I have some other issues with the liner. The liner is 12x12 clay and I have decided to just pull in a new stainless round liner instead of try to just replace the upper section of clay liner when there may be failure points further down the system. My problem is I do not know how to connect the flexable liner to my stove. I am not very knowledgeable but I am extremely handy. You can see going through the wall from my stove into my chimney is simply a 24" section of triple wall stove pipe. We have been using this chimney and wood stove for 10 years with out issue. Can some one please advise me on how to properly connect the 6" flexable liner to my pipe in the wall. I understand the correct way would be to use a tee but I do not know how I would be able to attach the tee to my pipe either. I had a local chimney repair guy recommend I just clamp the flue liner to my existing pipe but that does not seem correct either. Please advise.

 

[begreen]

They make a liner specific tee section that has a removable snout. The bottom-capped liner with the tee section is dropped into place with the band loop of the snout already in place. The tee is threaded through the loop. When the tee's hole aligns with thimble hole, the snout is attached.

PS: The liner needs to be fully insulated.

Here is a video illustrating the process.

How to Install a Chimney Liner - Installing a Chimney Liner Kit Video - Rockford Chimney

Chimney liner installation instructions for the do-it-yourself homeowner and contractor. Easy to follow, step-by-step guide for a quick and safe install.

www.rockfordchimneysupply.com

 

[Gtmst3]

So from what I have seen the new liner does not have to be insulated because it is going into a masonary chimney. Is that not correct. Also I have watched the video you linked, so I need to cut open my wall and install a proper through wall thimble? If so how do I do that with the chimney already in place?

 

[Gtmst3]

Here's a few more pictures just because.

 

[begreen]

The requiremnt for insulation depends on chimney clearances to combustibles. For an exterior chimney that is 1". If this whole wall is brick with no studs, then you are correct.

The video shows how to install. You don't need to open the wall. However, that creosote needs to be fully removed before installing the liner. It's bad and could ignite. Insulating the liner would help here, but I think I would bust out all that clay liner. It's coated inside and out.

The woodstove will need a proper hearth and clearances per the stove manual requirements.

bholler?

 

[Gtmst3]

So that t snout should slide right through the triple wall pipe that is in the wall?

 

[begreen]

If that is an entirely brick wall then typically the thimble is 7" round clay tile. The triple wall is unnecessary for a 100% brick wall but it can work if it is 7" or 8" ID.

 

[Gtmst3]

So when we bought the house there was just a hole in the wall into the chimney. The wall is brick exterior with 2x6 framing and brick veneer over drywall on the Inside. I live in a small rural town so there is no one who specializes in chimney repair or construction. I would have to hire someone to come from 200 + miles away. And I cannot afford to pay someone anyway. So I bought a piece of what I was told is triple wall pipe rated for direct contact with combustible material and installed it into the hole in the wall into the chimney. As you can see in the attached pictures it is only 5 7/8 Id. I just need the quickest and least expensive route to get my wood stove ( primary source of heat ) up and running for winter. Even if that means abandoning the chimney and installing a new one through the ceiling. I just need some guidance. Class a pipe is expendsive so I was hoping to just re-line the chimney but I'm open to any suggestions. I have two Children so I want it to be done safely and correctly also of course.

 

[Gtmst3]

Follow up, this portion of the wall is solid mortar. It is fully non combustible. Can I use just the interior part of a through wall thimble then the tee ?

 

[Gtmst3]

So I think I need this piece then the flexable chimney liner will connect directly to this?

Insulated Chimney Thimble for Thimble and Wall Pass Thru Installations - Rockford Chimney

An Insulated Chimney Thimble protects the wall from overheating where the flue pipe passes through. Includes installation instructions. Free shipping.

www.rockfordchimneysupply.com

 

[begreen]

The guidance by the store was not exactly right. The insulated, 3 wall, class A pipe has a clearance requirement of 2", it can't be in direct contact with combustibles. And the tee snout will not pass through that short section of triple-wall. The snout is 6" OD. If the wall is 100% brick then the triple-wall is not needed for this install.

Are you having the work done or will this be a DIY repair? If DIY adding a liner will be less expensive:

1. Bust out the old tile chimney liner and remove the debris via the bottom cleanout. That gets rid of the creosote issue.
2. Cement in a 7"x 12" clay thimble using refractory mortar into the existing interior hole with the tile extending into the room a few inches. Let the mortar set up.
3. Install the stainless liner with the capped tee and then attach the snout as shown in the video.
4. Thread the top of the liner through the new stainless top plate.
5. Glue the top plate to the brick using a generous bead of good quality silicone adhesive like GE Silicone II.
6. Clamp the top of the liner. Trim and secure the top cap and storm collar as per the video.
7. Connect the stovepipe to the snout.
8. Put some stove door rope gasket around the stovepipe to seal up the gap between it and the thimble.

 

[Highbeam]

I’m a fan of just getting rid of the old masonry pile of rocks and replacing with a modern pipe system.

 

[Highbeam]

The guidance by the store was not exactly right. The insulated, 3 wall, class A pipe has a clearance requirement of 2", it can't be in direct contact with combustibles. And the tee snout will not pass through that short section of triple-wall. The snout is 6" OD. If the wall is 100% brick then the triple-wall is not needed for this install.

Are you having the work done or will this be a DIY repair? If DIY adding a liner will be less expensive:

1. Bust out the old tile chimney liner and remove the debris via the bottom cleanout. That gets rid of the creosote issue.
2. Cement in a 7"x 12" clay thimble using refractory mortar into the existing interior hole with the tile extending into the room a few inches. Let the mortar set up.
3. Install the stainless liner with the capped tee and then attach the snout as shown in the video.
4. Thread the top of the liner through the new stainless top plate.
5. Glue the top plate to the brick using a generous bead of good quality silicone adhesive like GE Silicone II.
6. Clamp the top of the liner. Trim and secure the top cap and storm collar as per the video.
7. Connect the stovepipe to the snout.
8. Put some stove door rope gasket around the stovepipe to seal up the gap between it and the thimble.

Don’t you think the 2x 6 framing with brick veneer makes this something other than a solid brick wall?

 

[Gtmst3]

I’m a fan of just getting rid of the old masonry pile of rocks and replacing with a modern pipe system.

It just wouldn't look as nice as the chimney.

 

[Gtmst3]

The guidance by the store was not exactly right. The insulated, 3 wall, class A pipe has a clearance requirement of 2", it can't be in direct contact with combustibles. And the tee snout will not pass through that short section of triple-wall. The snout is 6" OD. If the wall is 100% brick then the triple-wall is not needed for this install.

Are you having the work done or will this be a DIY repair? If DIY adding a liner will be less expensive:

1. Bust out the old tile chimney liner and remove the debris via the bottom cleanout. That gets rid of the creosote issue.
2. Cement in a 7"x 12" clay thimble using refractory mortar into the existing interior hole with the tile extending into the room a few inches. Let the mortar set up.
3. Install the stainless liner with the capped tee and then attach the snout as shown in the video.
4. Thread the top of the liner through the new stainless top plate.
5. Glue the top plate to the brick using a generous bead of good quality silicone adhesive like GE Silicone II.
6. Clamp the top of the liner. Trim and secure the top cap and storm collar as per the video.
7. Connect the stovepipe to the snout.
8. Put some stove door rope gasket around the stovepipe to seal up the gap between it and the thimble.

Yes it is a DIY
How would I finish the clay thimble on the interior to make it look nice

 

[Gtmst3]

Also is there any advantage to a chimney being taller than required? My roof is a 4-12 pitch the chimney is 10 feet from the peak and is currently 64" tall but I removed 24" of brick for repair so it was about 92" tall prior, can I leave it as is or should I rebuild it to its previous height

 

[begreen]

Don’t you think the 2x 6 framing with brick veneer makes this something other than a solid brick wall?

The question is how close it the framing to the thimble? If 18" it's ok. Without some on-site forensics this is TBD. To reduce the clearance will require an insulated thimble.

 

[Gtmst3]

The question is how close it the framing to the thimble? If 18" it's ok. Without some on-site forensics this is TBD. To reduce the clearance will require an insulated thimble.

It is currently an 8" opening in a wall framed 16" on center. Plus someone filled the cavity with mortar however there is some wood showing in a couple small spots on the sides and there is no mortar above. It seems like there was a pipe of someone mortared in there at one point previous to me buying the house.

 

[Highbeam]

It is currently an 8" opening in a wall framed 16" on center. Plus someone filled the cavity with mortar however there is some wood showing in a couple small spots on the sides and there is no mortar above. It seems like there was a pipe of someone mortared in there at one point previous to me buying the house.

It’s really hard to know what you have without opening up the wall. It is safest to assume that the mortar you see is just 1/2” thick and install the insulated thimble.