Problems with new Xtrordinairre Elite insert

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

JayY

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 26, 2006
40
Western NY
Hello,

I am new to the group and to heating with wood. I had a Fireplace XTR Elite insert installed into an existing masonry chimney early in November. The install included a new stainless steel liner which was insulated. Initially the stove burned OK using 3yr old elm I had on hand. It never seemed to develop a raging fire however and I would burn it wide open most of the time just to keep the flames. Recently, however the fires have appeared even more "choked". At first opening the doors a hair for a few minutes would seem to alleviate the problem but I have now stopped using the stove. I looked at the top of the chimney and there is definitely tar like creosote up there. I plan to take a better look today. I also have a ton of questions.

What else should I look for? I am guessing the stove has been choked from the start and I already have a decrease in draft due to creosote buildup? The air damper control is on the bottom of the stove, is it common for this to get clogged somehow or is inadequate draft more likely? Is there a way to measure the temperatures in this flush mount insert? I can think of more but I don't want to seem too needy in my first post :-) I would like to have a little more knowledge before I call the dealer.

Thanks in advance
 
Are you sure that elm is dry? How was it stored for those 3 years? Can you get one of those bundles of firewood they sell at 7 Eleven and some gas stations? That kind of wood is kiln dried and if it won't burn then you have something other than wet wood. If you see tar you'll need to sweep the chimney first.
 
Is the tar creosote only on the chimney cap or is the inside of the liner itself coated with it?
 
Seems like he is expecting roaring flames thoroughout the burn cycle.
Mine after initial start up, then secondary, goes to mostly read coals and red charring on splits.
This is where I get my majority of heat temperature from.
Are you expecting roaring flames the whole burn cycle?
 
Thanks for the responses. I will try to answer the questions.

Rich, I think the elm is very dry. The tree died 3 years ago from storm damage and stood in place until this spring. At that time I cut it down, split it and stored it undercover. Not text book but it has no bark and the ends are cracked. It burns with no popping or sizzling and it splits easy which indicates dry elm to me.

MOF, I took a better look down the chimney and the tar was only on the cap. Nasty stuff. The rest of the chimney had a very light coating of the flaky shiny stuff. It was a very thin coating but since I was up there I ran the brush down it anyway. I don't think I had anything to worry about. I also took the face off and vacuumed around the air control. It seems to be burning better today.

HogWildz, I am not expecting roaring flames but I admit, I am not sure what is normal. I expected to have to damper down somewhat to achieve the conditions you describe.

A thermometer would take a lot of the guesswork out of this but I am not sure where to put one on this stove. This is a flush mount insert that has an integrated blower. The blower channels air across the top of the stove. Without the blower, the stove does not heat very well. I think I could put a thermometer on the stove top but it would be hard to see and it would be right in the blower draft. Is this my best option? I cannot see any of the flue.

Thanks Again
 
Status
Not open for further replies.