As stated above I'm very new to the wood burning gig. I'm heating a 2000sq/ft two story house. I have installed an addon stove that is 27"deep, 21" wide and about 20" tall as far as the firebox goes, so this thing is pretty big. It has 10" legs and sits on the concrete foundation of my block home. I've run the 6" flue through the concrete wall, which is at a contant angle up, nothing completely horizontal. This runs 6' and turnminates up at a 90' another 6'. My house is a gable roof, so its plent far from the roof at this height. My questions are:
-Do you think this will allow for proper draft or should I go higher
-Stove is 2' from one wall, the back corner nearest to the firemat is about 1' and that front corner about 1.5' from wall.
-How would you treat the walls for fire safety, I haven't started this thing full time yet and can do anything needed to the walls of this furnace room.
-I lit the stove and the room went from 60'F to 115'F in a couple hrs and didn't rise above that, that was with the 8" duct pipe not installed into my return, is this safe?
*I'm very new and i've done a lot of research, but there's only so much without real life experience. I've got seasoned hardwood to burn, and eagar to do this the right way. What sort of thimble for going through a block wall, pipe is standard black single wall from Tractor Supply. It runs under my return (10" is the closest it gets) and this should provide some heat for the incoming return air that is being supplied by the stove. Please let me know what you think of this setup and what I should change so I can get it done before the extreme cold sets in...
*Another thing, my stove has a box on the top rear that is conected to what seems to be a damper door by a metal draw cord. There is conduit running to this and into an electrical box where. I assume this is supposed to be some sort of "auto" damper, but its rusted to bits and i've just installed a damper into the flue, will I be ok to weld this one shut? Anyone know where a replacement could be found if its worth replacing? Thanks and here are some pictures for identification of the stove as there is no numbers, letters, or anything on it ANYWHERE!
Pipe going through the block wall, any thinble rec. with link?
The electric damper box?
-Do you think this will allow for proper draft or should I go higher
-Stove is 2' from one wall, the back corner nearest to the firemat is about 1' and that front corner about 1.5' from wall.
-How would you treat the walls for fire safety, I haven't started this thing full time yet and can do anything needed to the walls of this furnace room.
-I lit the stove and the room went from 60'F to 115'F in a couple hrs and didn't rise above that, that was with the 8" duct pipe not installed into my return, is this safe?
*I'm very new and i've done a lot of research, but there's only so much without real life experience. I've got seasoned hardwood to burn, and eagar to do this the right way. What sort of thimble for going through a block wall, pipe is standard black single wall from Tractor Supply. It runs under my return (10" is the closest it gets) and this should provide some heat for the incoming return air that is being supplied by the stove. Please let me know what you think of this setup and what I should change so I can get it done before the extreme cold sets in...
*Another thing, my stove has a box on the top rear that is conected to what seems to be a damper door by a metal draw cord. There is conduit running to this and into an electrical box where. I assume this is supposed to be some sort of "auto" damper, but its rusted to bits and i've just installed a damper into the flue, will I be ok to weld this one shut? Anyone know where a replacement could be found if its worth replacing? Thanks and here are some pictures for identification of the stove as there is no numbers, letters, or anything on it ANYWHERE!
Pipe going through the block wall, any thinble rec. with link?
The electric damper box?