Picking up Huskee 22-ton next week...saw an old friend today.

[Intheswamp]

Well, I've been stressing out over getting a splitter for a while. I've got two elbows (one already operated on) that are questionable to say the least. Also, a previously whittled on back that, of course, isn't 100%. The hand splitting that I've done seemed to *really* wreck pain on the elbows...back did fair.

I have been looking at the Speeco 25-ton and the Huskee 22-ton but after Speeco jumped their prices over 10% that pretty well solved the debate for me. I woke up this morning with the intentions of going to TSC and purchasing one (before Huskee jumps their prices, too)....but what I woke up with instead was a fever of 103F<GROOOAAAAAAAAANNNNNNN> THE PITS! I'm sitting here aching all over, head pounding, just wiped-out feeling.<BLAHHHH!!> I was also planning on cutting some more wood today, but...it's on hold. It's one of those hurts where a breeze blowing across your skin hurts....

Anyhow, I managed to drag my carcass to the phone and called Tractor Supply and bought the 22-ton Huskee over the phone. It's still in the crate and they will be putting it together the first of the week. Definitely no hurry on my part.<OOOOHHHH> I'm figuring on hauling it back on a small utility trailer rather than towing it. It's only 21 miles, but....

In the meantime I have just a couple of questions.

What brand/type/weight oil are folks running in the B&S 675? Trust me, I've read till my eyes are crossed trying to figure out what to run in them. I've seen recommendations to run only dino 30w or the splitter will get swallow by a sink hole....to recommendations of 5w20 synthetic (Mobil 1 mostly mentioned) and aliens will come down and stack your wood for you. I want (like everybody else) for this splitter to last the rest of my life so I want to do what's best. I have heard mention that running synthetic on air cooled engines can cause gunk and carbon deposits to build up. Also, I've seen it mentioned that dino oil will fill the "gaps" in the "looser" air cooled engines. So...any brand/type/weight recommendations.

The next question is break-in. 5-hours and change the engine oil?

What about the hydraulic fluid?....does it need a break-in fluid change? I'm planning on getting some of the Coastal Economy AW46.

Any other tips or recommendations are appreciated...about the only thing I can do today is sit here and groan so I figured I'd try to get some feedback on the splitter.

BTW...I'm getting a little excited about it...even with a 103F fever!!

Ed

 

[TreePointer]

Just follow what the manual says to do.

I have a 2009 build Huskee 35-ton splitter with a B&S engine. I used the original oil for the first 5 hours and then switched to full synthetic at the recommended weight (5W-30). Since I split in below freezing weather to over 90°F, I chose synthetic to provide better range of protection. Additionally, it makes for easier cold weather starts.

In general, I don't change hydraulic fluid unless it looks like it needs it (dirty or cloudy).

 

[richg]

Ed, forget teh splitter, why do you have a fever of 103? That is very high for an adult and should be dealt with on an immediate basis. At the very least, go to an Urgent Care for an evaluation, boost your fluid intake double quick and worry about the splitter when you're at 98.6. this is a public service announcement brought to you by RichG.

 

[Intheswamp]

Just follow what the manual says to do.

I have a 2009 build Huskee 35-ton splitter with a B&S engine. I used the original oil for the first 5 hours and then switched to full synthetic at the recommended weight (5W-30). Since I split in below freezing weather to over 90°F, I chose synthetic to provide better range of protection. Additionally, it makes for easier cold weather starts.

In general, I don't change hydraulic fluid unless it looks like it needs it (dirty or cloudy).

Thanks for the feedback, TreePointer. The difference, though, is that we have two different engines. For the "lawn mower" vertical-shaft engines the thicker dino oil has been recommended to help fill those "gaps" that I mentioned. That nice horizontal engine of yours probably has tighter tolerances than the 675 vertical shaft splash engine. I'm really undecided on what to go with in regards to engine oil. I like the idea of easier starting when it's cold, but being in south Alabama I doubt I'll be doing a lot of splitting down below 40f.

Yeah, I figured on changing the hydraulic fluid if it becomes cloudy or dirty looking. But, what about the break-in period...would it be worth it to change it to remove any metal bits? The thought has passed through my mind (the little that I have) about getting another drain plug and JB Welding a rare earth magnet to it to collect any tiny metal pieces that might find their way into the tank. I'm not sure how well the rare earth magnets will work due to the heat...I'll have to check the heat tolerance of them.

It's been a long day...update coming.
Ed

 

[Intheswamp]

Ed, forget teh splitter, why do you have a fever of 103? That is very high for an adult and should be dealt with on an immediate basis. At the very least, go to an Urgent Care for an evaluation, boost your fluid intake double quick and worry about the splitter when you're at 98.6. this is a public service announcement brought to you by RichG.

Thanks for the concern, RichG. I went to bed last night not feeling "right"...something was up. Earlier in the day I had a burning sensation on my gums and lips...kinda like a pepper sensation. Anyhow, I woke up this morning like someone had hit me between the eyes with an oak split. There's been some intestinal stuff going around, but so far I haven't had an issue with that....I have had chills, fever, big-time aching body. This evening my temperature is hovering at 99.5f.

Now for the rest of the day's saga...

After posting my initial post I got a phone call from my MIL that she had no water (deep well). I figured ants had got into the points and drug my aching self over there to clean it up...it wasn't the points. I opened up the control box and it was basically rotten...capacitor case all cracked up, blade-connections on the cap all rusted up. Ok, I figure it's the control box...nobody in town has one so I have to drive 30 miles one-way to a nearby town to get a control box. Get the control box replaced. No water. My body is still rebelling against me with aches and pains. The breaker keeps kicking off. Ok, in my fevered stupor while I'm playing with 240v I hope on the outside chance that the breaker has fried or something. I run to town and pick up a two pole 30amp breaker. Get back pop it in, hold my breath, and flip it on. It hums and trips. No water. At this point my hair is hurting, I'm disgusted, I'm tired, and I'm looking at a fried deep-well pump that might just be froze up down there with about 160' of galvanized pipe hanging above it.

Did I say the hair on the bottom of my feet was hurting?....I thought so.

Anyhow, fevers down to 99.5f...I'm gonna live! But, didn't get to cut any firewood today.
Ed

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Ed, sometimes when it rains it pours. Sounds like you are getting pouring rain. I hope your luck changes fast.

On the oil, do follow the manual. I've used 10-30 oil since the beginning on our B&S and changed the oil after the first 2 hours when new. It is wearing some now though as I have to keep adding some oil between changes. But this thing has split a lot of wood too so lots of hours on it. Geeze, I loaned it to a guy once and freaked out when he didn't return it so went to see what was happening. He had about 30 cord of wood there and was almost done when I got there. When he returned it, he didn't even bother to fill the tank with gas...

 

[Intheswamp]

Ed, sometimes when it rains it pours. Sounds like you are getting pouring rain. I hope your luck changes fast.

On the oil, do follow the manual. I've used 10-30 oil since the beginning on our B&S and changed the oil after the first 2 hours when new. It is wearing some now though as I have to keep adding some oil between changes. But this thing has split a lot of wood too so lots of hours on it. Geeze, I loaned it to a guy once and freaked out when he didn't return it so went to see what was happening. He had about 30 cord of wood there and was almost done when I got there. When he returned it, he didn't even bother to fill the tank with gas...

Thanks for the well wishes, Dennis. I feel better this morning...fever's gone and feel like a wrung out dishrag but the sun's shining!!

I got a shoulder problem that has *really* been nagging me...started with a "crik in the neck" then moved over to the shoulder...going to the doctor tomorrow and if nothing else get one of those "zone" shots...been going on at least two weeks now.

But...I'm alive!<grin> It's sunny outside, though some rain's possibly moving our way for Monday night and Tuesday...hopefully with the time change I'll be able to do some cutting after work during the week. Sure gotta get this shoulder straightened out, though, and deal with the elbow. The business that I grew up in had a lot of repetitive motion lifting tires in it...never figured back then it'd tell on me today.<sigh>

How old is that splitter of yours? Seems that you've been well pleased with it. The new manual for the vertical shaft B&G's state that the 5w30 synthetic can be used with no problem. I'm still leaning to straight SAE 30.

Glad you got your splitter back with no major problems. Some folks just don't appreciate what folks do for them. Shoot...after 30 cords of wood through it he should've waxed and polished the steel, changed the hydro and engine oil, filled'er up and checked the air in the tires. Seriously, appreciation is getting to be a thing of the past with a lot of the sheeple out there.

Hope you're having a good day...take it easy on that hip or I'm gonna tell that sweet wife of yours on you and she'll live up to your description of her!

Ed

 

[Backwoods Savage]

So glad you are feeling better Ed. On the shoulder and neck, yes, repetitive motion can wreck havoc with those joints. Shoot, I ruined my wrists, elbows and neck just riding bike and then there is the numb foot problem I've had for years because of that too...

Our splitter is over 20 years old. I don't remember for sure (memory seems to be a thing of the past with me now) but I'm thinking now it was in 1989 when we got it and bought it at Quality Farm and Fleet, which was bought out by Tractor Supply. I got a bargain on ours but did have to put it together. That was no problem though as there wasn't much to it.

I would not hesitate to run synthetic oil but regular oil is fine too. Lots of folks run only synthetic in their atv's too but I've always ran regular oil with no problems.

The wife has been sort of quiet lately. Maybe I need to stir her up a bit.

 

[TreePointer]

I have a 1989 White lawnmower with a B&S vertical shaft engine. For the first 10 years of its life it used dino oil, but after that I've been running full synthetic with no problems.

In addition to the log splitter, I also have a 2009 B&S Vanguard 23hp engine (vertical shaft) in a lawn tractor. I ran the first 5 hours with factory dino oil and have run full synthetic ever since without issue (~100 hrs). I have other B&S engines that have run full synthetic after the factory recommended initial oil change without issue. My local briggs service shop (services for Sears and others) says the 5 hrs. is for break in and the change is for removing any small particles that result from break in.

Regarding hydraulic fluid, there aren't many moving parts to create the small particles. Reservoir, hoses, fittings, valve, cylinder, filter. Since the filter is on the return line before the reservoir, the filter would catch anything that shouldn't be there. That's why I change the filter regularly and not the hydraulic fluid, unless i actually see it needs it.

 

[rustynut]

intheswamp,
You'll find that a back brace will make you feel a whole lot better at the end of the day.
Had one from the dirt bike and tried it out.
Big difference, and my back is in pretty good shape.
Enjoy the new toy...........
rn

 

[Nic36]

Ed, hope you get to feeling better.

I've had my splitter for about a year and just changed the hydraulic filter for the first time and topped it off with hydraulic fluid. The hydro oil looked very clean and I don't plan to change it anytime soon. At current prices, it would take about $60.00 just to change out the hydraulic fluid. I also changed the engine oil and decided to use synthetic 5W30, just for kicks mostly as I don't use synthetic in anything else. I try to buy oil in the 5 quart jug because it is cheaper. I did use SAE 30 in my small engines for a while, but it is not sold in a 5 quart jug and over time adds up to extra dollars spent.

I really don't think it matters what oil you use in the engine, especially down in the South. From my experience with Briggs engines, keep the air filter clean, oil level normal and periodically change the oil and they will run a long time. By the way, the air filter in mine looks brand new, unlike a mower filter that see a lot of dust.

Don't stress out over the maintenance and just enjoy the easy splitting.

When you pick up the splitter, I advise you to check the level of hydraulic fluid so they don't short you. (engine oil too) TSC includes it with the splitter. Make sure it is not low. If it is, make them top it off. It can hold about two gallons if it is on the low mark of the normal range on the dipstick. (I found that out when I changed the hydraulic filter.) Mid mark of the normal range and you can still add about another gallon. The hydraulic oil is very hard to see on the dipstick as it stays very clear.

 

[Intheswamp]

Dennis, yelp I'm feeling better in regards to the fever thing...that was weird, no stomach or intestinal symptoms...just fever, chills, and aches. Anyhow, I'm gonna call the doc in the morning and get him to help me figure out this shoulder issue...really the pits...the elbow can wait a little while. I grew up in the tire business (all this high performance stuff makes my head spin now...nothing like in the old days with utilitarian sizes with a few "sport" sizes thrown in). Anyhow, through the years stacking tires bigger than me has told on me..."oh, I don't need no help, I got it!"...I warn these kids today about that foolishness, they'll learn one day. What kind of bike were you riding....dirt bikes (thinking of wrists and elbows)? Twenty years old for the splitter, eh?....how many cords of wood do ya'll average a year?...I know it's several of'em, that splitter's paid for itself several times over! Don't push it with the wife....she's got plenty of firewood to keep you straight with! <g>

Treepointer, thanks for sharing your experiences with me and it sounds like you have lots of it. That Whites mower has been a good'un, no doubt! What do you see as the benefit of using the synthetic...extended time between oil changes?....easier cranking?.....??? I'm not going to be racking up a bunch of hours on the splitter...probably only 2, maybe 3 cords a year so I *think* I'll be doing seasonal oil changes rather than per-hours changes. It makes sense that the metal flashing or whatever that might be loose in the system will be coming out of the system and that the filter will keep it from recirculating. What type of hydraulic filter are you using?

rustynut, thanks for the back brace suggestion. I just happened to spy my old brace in a storage closet the other day (just a belt type with the pad in the back, no suspenders or such). I recall that it did help a good bit....and that after work when I took it off it seemed like my abdomen just kinda melted down...a strange sensation...but it did help the back. I'll be sure and pack it the next trip out! If I can see the doc tomorrow I think I'll ask him if he thinks one will help my elbow, too. Thanks again for the recommendation!

Nic, thanks, I'm feeling better as for as the crud goes...just gotta get this pain out of the shoulder now. I think what's confusing me some about the oils is all the ratings or whatever that are talked about...some having zinc, some not, SL, SJ, whatever ratings. Will just a simple Castrol 30HD or a Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic do? I'm thinking that down here in the south I could get away with a straight 30w and be ok. I hadn't paid attention to the fact that you can't buy straight 30w in the big jugs...interesting. Thanks BIG TIME for the tip-off on checking the hydraulic fluid in the splitter...and the engine oil. I keep a flashlight in my pocket....I'll see where the oil level is whether in the warehouse or sunshine! Yelp, I'm planning on enjoying the splitter...I'm looking forward to it. I've just gotta get feeling a little better so I can round up some more rounds. <G>

Thanks for all ya'll's help...trust me, I need all I can get.
Ed

 

[TreePointer]

Treepointer, thanks for sharing your experiences with me and it sounds like you have lots of it. That Whites mower has been a good'un, no doubt! What do you see as the benefit of using the synthetic...extended time between oil changes?....easier cranking?.....??? I'm not going to be racking up a bunch of hours on the splitter...probably only 2, maybe 3 cords a year so I *think* I'll be doing seasonal oil changes rather than per-hours changes. It makes sense that the metal flashing or whatever that might be loose in the system will be coming out of the system and that the filter will keep it from recirculating. What type of hydraulic filter are you using?

Here's an excerpt form the B&S manual for my splitter:

Below 40*F, the use of SAE 30 will result in hard starting.

Above 80*F the use of 10W-30 may cause increased oil consumption. Check oil level frequently.

Although this probably would be less of an issue if I lived in the South, I operate my splitter above 80F and well below 40F at times. The chart indicates that synthetic will be okay for operating from -22F to 104F.

I could use dino SAE 30 in the White lawnmower, but since just about everything else takes synthetic to cover the temperature range in which they get used, I put full synthetic in it, too (I just by one big container when it's on sale). In addition, all my push and rider mowers get used HARD, so I like the extra protection of synthetic.

As for the hydraulic filter, read the following discussion. Pay attention to the posts by kgreer (customer service rep form SpeeCo/Huskee):
(broken link removed)

Right now, I'm using a Cross filter form Tractor Supply Co.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Ed, my bikes did not have motors. I used to ride a Bianchi but when the body parts really began advising me to stop, I got a recumbent bike. You can see what my bike looks like here: (broken link removed to http://www.bacchettabikes.com/bikes/touring-commuting-bikes/giro-26-att)

Wrestling the tires is hard work and perhaps it is best left to the younger folks. Another thing that is bad is working on cement, especially during the winter months. Bad things can it do to your body.

Actually I do not know how many cord it has split because I've split for others and loaned the splitter. We used to burn 6-7 cord per winter but since installing the Fireview in 2007 cut that to 3 cord! About all I can say is we are probably approaching 200 cord or somewhere in there.

 

[Intheswamp]

Treepointer, thanks for sharing your experiences with me and it sounds like you have lots of it. That Whites mower has been a good'un, no doubt! What do you see as the benefit of using the synthetic...extended time between oil changes?....easier cranking?.....??? I'm not going to be racking up a bunch of hours on the splitter...probably only 2, maybe 3 cords a year so I *think* I'll be doing seasonal oil changes rather than per-hours changes. It makes sense that the metal flashing or whatever that might be loose in the system will be coming out of the system and that the filter will keep it from recirculating. What type of hydraulic filter are you using?

Here's an excerpt form the B&S manual for my splitter:

Below 40*F, the use of SAE 30 will result in hard starting.

Above 80*F the use of 10W-30 may cause increased oil consumption. Check oil level frequently.

Although this probably would be less of an issue if I lived in the South, I operate my splitter above 80F and well below 40F at times. The chart indicates that synthetic will be okay for operating from -22F to 104F.

I could use dino SAE 30 in the White lawnmower, but since just about everything else takes synthetic to cover the temperature range in which they get used, I put full synthetic in it, too (I just by one big container when it's on sale). In addition, all my push and rider mowers get used HARD, so I like the extra protection of synthetic.

As for the hydraulic filter, read the following discussion. Pay attention to the posts by kgreer (customer service rep form SpeeCo/Huskee):
(broken link removed)

Right now, I'm using a Cross filter form Tractor Supply Co.

Yeah, I've been researching more and more on the synthetic. Sounds good, I'm not knocking it for sure. B&S states that 10w30 can be used from 0F-100F but it doesn't specify synthetic whereas the 5w30 recommendation does specify synthetic. Elsewhere I've read that as long as you adhere to the recommended oil weight that it's ok to go synthetic. My heads spinnin' Ditto on the higher oil consumption above 80F for the 10w30...but I wonder if that is figuring on using dino oil in that case. My heads still spinnin'

Yelp, I've read that thread that Kevin contributed to several times. With the cross references of the filters the Wix is 33 microns vs. the Cross at 25 microns....maybe 8 microns don't make that much of a difference but why would they have a 10 micron filter if it doesn't matter? Just thinking out loud, I guess...

Ed

 

[Intheswamp]

I've gotta flash back to the 70's and say COOL BIKE MAN!! Now that is nice I was actually thinking (once I got past the motorized stage) of one of those low-slung bikes (probably goes back to the 70's, too) where your butt is about 3 inches off the asphalt.

Yelp, concrete mostly with some asphalt thrown in...unload, stack, reload, haul, restack.<groan> Unfortunately that has become less and less. The small Mom and Pop operations have been hit hard by the economy and the big corporations...it's bad when your main supplier puts a bullseye on your back, loyalty gets you no where. At least being small we have a lower overhead to deal with, but it doesn't look good...another reason I'm trying to get my wood heating going...I've got some tools and trees.

There's one thing about it, and I think you've said it before....your splitter don't owe you anything! It's a good'un!!

Take care,
Ed

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Do you mean a bike like these Ed?

(broken image removed)

This was Team Velokraft in 2007. Tim Woudenberg from San Francisco and Glenn Druery from Sidney, Australia. I well remember when Glenn was clocked at 72 mph just west of Durango, CO. That is flying! Yes, he was passing cars.

Oh, the bikes were $10,000 bikes....

 

[Intheswamp]

Do you mean a bike like these Ed?

(broken image removed)

This was Team Velokraft in 2007. Tim Woudenberg from San Francisco and Glenn Druery from Sidney, Australia. I well remember when Glenn was clocked at 72 mph just west of Durango, CO. That is flying! Yes, he was passing cars.

Oh, the bikes were $10,000 bikes....

WOW Just think if Opie had one of those to deliver newspapers with.... Who's that strange looking character second from the right?

Ed

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Never did figure out who he was but we saw him driving the RV all the time. He had some other chores too and we just put up with him.

 

[Intheswamp]

Never did figure out who he was but we saw him driving the RV all the time. He had some other chores too and we just put up with him.

I think I've seen him on "America's Most Wanted"....

 

[fishinpa]

Intheswamp: I will bw honest and admit that I have not read every reply here, so hopefully this is not a repeat recomendation.

BY an extray 5 gal jug of hydraulic fluid when you grab the splitter. The crate only comes with x amount, and does not fill the unit up to the recommended amount.

NOTE: I just changed my filter for the first time (about 32 hours) and it was a mess. There does not appear to be a way to stop the flow (short of driaing the entire unit first) and the oil was so clean, I wounder why I did it. My unit it about 2 seasons uused now.

 

[Intheswamp]

Thanks for the tip, fishinpa. I'll be sure and pick up some extra hydraulic oil. TSC put the splitter together and I'm going to check the fluid before we roll it out the door....if it's low when we check it won't be when it leaves there.


For the B&S engine I've pretty much decided to go with Pennzoil HD 30w. I may try a synthetic later on but for now I'll use dino.

I'll be heading over there to pick it up in an hour or so....it's kind of bitter sweet (for now) being as the doctor feels pretty sure I've got a pinched nerve in my neck/upper back....toothache pain in the shoulder and upper arm. I was going to haul it back on my small trailer but I'm thinking it might be just easier to tow it back on it's tires....it's a 20+ mile trip. I'm still going to try some firewood cutting this afternoon, though....I've got a new mouth to feed now. But I'll either be rolling the rounds up a ramp or hoisting them with block and tackle.



Ed

 

[fishinpa]

I hope you get this before you tow it home... I recommend you plug the beather hole in the square fill plug or you need to wipe the unit down once you get it home. It'll leave a trail of fluid frm the store to the house. (And probably pi$$ of the Mercedes that was tailgate'ing you the whole way back. ;-) )

 

[velvetfoot]

I'd tow it on the trailer.

 

[Intheswamp]

Well, I just got back in from cutting wood...my shoulder and arm is KILLIN' ME It was weird...while I was cutting my shoulder hurt but not enough to hinder me but enough that I tried to be careful loading rounds. Soon as I get home and sit down in a chair it goes into warp drive pain. Crazy...time for a muscle relaxer...they don't really help but they kinda make me stupid and I don't think about the shoulder as much...I might take two.

Anyhow, got a minute and figured I'd give a quick update. I finally got to TSC and picked the splitter up. I did a little shopping (dogfood) and told one of the stock clerks that I was going to pick up a splitter and wanted to look at it. He carried me in the back and let me see it. The first thing I did was check the engine oil. It was only up to where the point turns into the stick width...I guess you could say the shoulder of the point. I asked them if they had checked the oil and was assured they had...they said the guy that put it together even cranked it. I asked for the manager. While the *assistant* manager was coming I checked the hydraulic fluid....it was a half inch below the "low" mark. My frown got even bigger....oh, and the plug was finger tight...should it be tighted with a crescent wrench firmly? The stock boy and the "certified mechanic" that was there definitely were defending the person that put it together...I sensed a defensive attitude from them which didn't help my feelings any.

Anyhow, the assistant manager got there, the stituation and my displeasure was expressed. I made sure of a 30 day return and the assistant manager assured me that I could and that they wanted me to be happy. All the fluids were topped off and I brought it home. The first thing I did when I got home was to check the temperature of the wheel hubs. The left side was acceptably warm while the right side seemed almost to the point of being hot...I can't remember right now, but one of the caps seemed like it was a bit mashed in...I'll check on which one.

Naturally, the next thing I did was split a round...I would have split more but was in a hurry to go cut some wood. Before putting the round on the cradle I operated the ram....it was jerky, but I recalled reading someone saying that it would be until the air got out of the system...and we had added a good bit of fluid at TSC. I retracted the ram and activated it again and it was smooth. The round made the splitter hesitate just a thought but it busted through it with ease...split that round up quiet nicely. I'm happy for now, even if the splitter was very low on both hydraulic fluid and engine oil. Earlier in talking with the manager I had inquired about the quality of the assembly....he said they'd never had any problems....I guess I'm the lucky one, eh. Too bad he had the day off, he's not the most friendly type and I would have liked him to have been there.

Thanks fishinpa for the tip on checking the fluids! I didn't get your message about plugging the vent hole...I was wondering why all those folks coming up behind me would suddenly going into a spin...I think most of'em got out of the ditch...I would've stopped and helped them but I was on a "mission".

Anyhow, I'm happy with the splitter if I can really say that with only one round under the wedge. More to come.

I got a fair load of wood today, probably a bit more than a face cord in the round. Some more water oak probably. And a couple of other varieties that I'll post a pictures of when I get some daylight. I intended to bring a ramp with me today...forgot it. Was going to buy a couple of double pulleys at TSC and make a block and tackle but they didn't have them. I've definitely gotta figure something better out. There's some good wood in the clear-cut but if it is very deep into the clear-cut where I can't drive the truck I can only tote it so far. Once I get the brakes fixed on my Cherokee 4x4 I'll be pulling my 5x10 trailer and that might get me further into the clear-cut but the biggest thing is that it will be much lower to load wood into.

Now, where are those muscle relaxers and tylenol...

Ed