Penn Royal steel slammer insert

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Oct 22, 2014
25
NJ
Hi Everyone, I have an old Penn Royal slammer unit in my house. It has been in my family for decades and still works perfect. I will be moving to another home that was built in 1951 that has an existing original masonry fireplace (no insert) with the old trap door on the bottom for the clean out. I would like to take this Penn Royal insert with me. It’s a steel beast that throws great heat and it’s also sentimental to me. Right now the insert is only in the fireplace opening venting right up the chimney with no liner or connections. What would I need to connect this with a liner? The opening on top of my insert measures 2 7/8” x 9 3/4” and is flat with no flange. So it’s flush. I should have 5” clearance from the top of the insert to the masonry brick and more as you go further deeper in. Thank you in advance for your time!
 
That’s a tough one. Sentimental things are good but that’s a big item to lug around. Not to mention not as efficient as new. But I would think that a ss liner going from stove to top of chimney (insulated liner) would work. Clearances would need to be considered too- not sure if there is a manual online for your stove.
 
I doubled checked the clearances. I should have around 8” from top of insert to masonry brick. I don’t mind lugging it around, since I’m moving anyway
 
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If there is no bypass rod in the way, then a basic transition collar should work. 2 7/8" x 9 3/4" = 28 sq inches so a 6" liner should suffice. Homesaver makes generic adapters
 
If there is no bypass rod in the way, then a basic transition collar should work. 2 7/8" x 9 3/4" = 28 sq inches so a 6" liner should suffice. Homesaver makes generic adapters
Excellent news! I was going to ask if I should go 6” or 8” liner. I’m glad you suggest 6” because I’m sure that will make the install easier
 
Why do the slammers get a bad rap? They seem very solid and strong, they heat up very well. I can control the airflow with the knobs to slow the burn rate down. Is it because they don’t connect to a liner?
 
Why do the slammers get a bad rap? They seem very solid and strong, they heat up very well. I can control the airflow with the knobs to slow the burn rate down. Is it because they don’t connect to a liner?
Yes, bc they don’t connect to a liner. Without the proper sized liner, a slammer install fills up the masonry chimney with creosote bc the draft is all wrong . I don’t think the stove makes it a slammer, but how it’s installed instead.
 
It's the expansion of the gases into a too big chimney (meant for high-volume-breathing fireplaces) that cools them down and slows them down.
This leads to creosote formation and deposition, in a system that has less protection than a steel liner that could at least a bit contain a chimney fire.
 
Why do the slammers get a bad rap? They seem very solid and strong, they heat up very well. I can control the airflow with the knobs to slow the burn rate down. Is it because they don’t connect to a liner?
Slammer is a type of installation, not a stove type. Most of these old stoves are built like tanks. Connected to a proper and safe liner system they can perform ok. They're not as efficient as modern stoves and usually have no window that us firebugs like in order to see the fire. But they're usually paid for and will get the job done as long as one burns fully seasoned firewood and doesn't smolder the fire.
 
Now I’m learning! So basically I should be ok to use this unit if I can install the proper liner adapter, 6” liner with insulation, and clean the chimney first? I like this unit because it throws heat very well, it has the window to see the fire, 2 airflow control knobs, and I have room on top for the cast iron humidifier, and it’s sentimental to me. Thank you for all your help answering my questions! I don’t want to burn the house down!
 
Yes, the chimney must be thoroughly cleaned (including the smokeshelf). Then the insulated liner goes in and is connected to the insert.
 
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