Pellet Stove Vent Pipe Question

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thephotohound

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Apr 19, 2007
332
Central Massachusetts
I've been searching for pellet stove vent pipe, and all I can find at my local hardware stores is galvanized 3" 24 ga. The going price is something like $10 for 3 feet of it. I've looked up "Type L Pellet Vent" from Simpson, and it is literally 6x the price. This is for the interior, so it has to be black. I have a type L vent to the exterior with a wall thimble and cap (from Simpson) already. This is just for coming out of the stove and to the wall.

1. Does the 24 ga. at most hardware stores meet UL standards for Type L pipe? Does it have to say "Type L" on it?
2. If all that is out there is galvanized, I know from painting it before, galvi is a pain in the a$$, and even more so under high temps (peeling, cracking). Any suggestions?
 
pellet vent is expensive but thems the breaks.
http://www.ventingpipe.com/ has a good selection
but they are slow to ship.
Some of the Aubuchon Hardware stores in MA carry
Simpson Duravent Pellet vent. Most stove shops
that sell pellet stoves either carry or can get you
the 3" Simpson duravent.

Since you have some of the pipe I'd stick with the simpson duravent.
Other brands may not fit with the simpson. Just my 2c.
 
I checked out ventingpipe.com and the Type L 3" pipe is $15-$25/linear foot. Single wall wood stove pipe is half that. Now I'm very confused. It's hard for me to believe that the heat going out the pellet vent is more intense than the heat going out of a wood stove chimney. Is it that the heat is more concentrated in the 3" pipe? I can;t believe I'm going to spend more money on a 5 ft. pellent vent than on an 8 ft wood stove chimney.
 
Last time I was in my local Ace Hardware they had a nice selection...but I'm over towards the west coast.
 
Instead of comparing it to Single Wall Black Pipe (18" CTC) try comparing the price to HT103/Class A pipe (1.5-2" CTC). Type L usually has less than 3" CTC, some brands even have 1" CTC (Clearance to Combustibles). You are paying for the listing which gets you the lower clearance to combustibles (if you think the price of metal is high, check out the price of getting a product UL Listed).
 
Pellet vent is Stainless.
Stainless in not cheep no mater how you buy it.

You have to use stainless for Pellet vent because of the Heat and Corosion.
You may be paying a lot for Duravent but Life TIME Warrantee.
if you use anything els that LVent you are not up to code and it will burn out.

you are paying for the engineering to ensure your safety

Also Lvent insures you have a Good seal for pellet venting is Pressurized positive air (does not rely on draft like a wood stoves Negitive draft ) and if you dont have a good seal it will blow soot.


The new LVent such as duravent, ICC and some others pellet vent has a 1" clearance listing to combustible (some have 3) you cant get that with Non L vent pipe
 
Im sorry but I have to say one more thing

I just dont understand why people have to be so cheep? and Disregard safty?
the venting is one of the most important part of your hearth appliance be it wood gas or pellet.

Come on people you are buring FIRE in your home. That fire puts out Harmful Gases that can KILL your family!!!



You buy a $1500 to 4000 stove and what to put $1.98 venting on it?

To me that is like going out and buying a $50,000 Corvet and putting a set of Recap tires on it.
 
I painted my PV pipe with black stove paint. Worked fine for me.

They did not have black pipe at the hardware store and I only wanted the pipe from the stove into the outlet to be black. Could care less about the roof.
 
ThePhotoHound said:
OK, OK... so I'm convinced. Simpson Duravent it is. If I can;t get it in black, how do I paint it? Just lightly sand, high heat spray primer, high heat spray paint?

We use Unpainted pipe for both gas vent and pellet vent cost about 20% less that Painted and then you can match to the stove.
Some stoves are Matt black, Metalic black, Satin Black,Charcoal Ect ect

Stovebright paint
Remove the lable. Clean off the glue from the label with GoofOff.
use some Steel whool or 3M scratch pads to prep the pipe.
If it is cold out Less that 55 deg we pre heat the pipe with a Plumber torch.

Paint the pipe in Light coats (dries in Minutes if you Do in very light coats)
Three coats of paint is normaly good if you do it right and will only take one can if you do it right.
Takes about 10 minutes total with a cost of around $9.00.
 
If ye be painting the galvanized stuff remember this. Galvanize likes to be about 6 months or older before it is going to want to accept and hold paint. If you put paint on it too early it might start to peel off ( not that it matters beyond cosmetics) but you could end sanding it off and doing it again. I can't squawk to what the stove vent manufacturers say but rather the generic rules of painting over galvanized gutters and the like.
 
Driz said:
If ye be painting the galvanized stuff remember this. Galvanize likes to be about 6 months or older before it is going to want to accept and hold paint. If you put paint on it too early it might start to peel off ( not that it matters beyond cosmetics) but you could end sanding it off and doing it again. I can't squawk to what the stove vent manufacturers say but rather the generic rules of painting over galvanized gutters and the like.
I have painted 100's of cans of stovebright paint over Galvanized pellet and gas vent for the past 18 years and never had a problem with paint peal unless the pipe had a fire or oil was on the pipe and not preped right.
 
Fair enough, I just be parroting what they said on some set of directions once. Still, galvanized is a lot like aluminum in that it can be danmed finiky when it comes to holding paint. Anyone who owned an early 90's GM truck or can can attest to the problems they had with paint falling off the car in great sheets due to its lack of affection for the new galvanized panels . I guess with stove pipe its not much of a big deal either way, it doesn't get much abuse and its not something you tend to look closely at. Either way make sure you wipe that pipe clean with some paint thinner to get any oils off the surface and wipe it dry before you paint em.
 
i painted mine with the same stove paint we use on our stoves , matches and looks great IMHO i like its look even better than the black duravent pipe. but i did not paint it until i had used it a season so the advice on the galvie and paint above may very well hold true, its not coming off the pipe at all after a full season of use it looks like the day i did it
 
If you're going to paint, do it right. Most galvanized pipe is cold dipped. A few minutes of prep will stop all the worry. As previously stated "scuff sanding" helps with adhesion, but also means you are cutting through the protection of the galvanizing. This is a simple and affective "do around". Use OO or OOO steel wool and "rub down the surface with white vinegar. Yupp, that's right, the cheapest gallon on the bottom shelf in the grocery store. When saturated it will lightly etch and dull the surface. It will help get rid of any other contaminents, but not all, if you see oily spots, wipe with thinner (paint or lacquer) then go over with the vinegar. Let it dry, depending on conditions, minutes to hours. When you paint, do it above 55f degrees. Follow the paint makers recommended directions between coats and curing. The etched zinc in the "galvanizing" works as a great primer and will last for many years.

I did some interior pipe for a friend about seven years ago, and went throught the attic pipe and did a tasty, toasty red to the cap. Still looks good as new. Shocked me alot, when I really expected to need to do the outside after three years.
 
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