Pellet stove install question

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masterswimmer

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 15, 2006
83
Chester, NY
I'm having a Harman XXV installed within the month. The installer said I'll need four 90 degree elbows and one 45 degree. Is 4" pipe adequate for this install?

Thanks
swimmer
 
my kneejerk reaction on this, swimmer, is 4- 90 degree bends and a 45 is alot, so if there are no other options, make sure you use righteous 4" pipe, and not 3" pipe (4" ID). GVA is right tho...are you going into a chimney, or thru a wall (not that it matters).....I just dont like that many 90's.....alot of restriction to flow for a positive pressure appliance. Using outside air too?
 
Here's a very primitive drawing of the run of pipe needed to accomplish the install.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

swimmer

[Hearth.com] Pellet stove install question


edit: measurements from the back of stove to the termination through the concrete block is about 7'.
From the building termination point, the pipe should rise approx. 4'-5' above exterior grade.

HTH
 
Your first 90 should be a cleanout tee (makes it much easier to clean), and Id consider 4" pellet pipe rather than 3" pipe. I do like the 45 degree termination rather than a termination cap, direct most of the exhaust away fromt he home. Beware that you should cover the end when the stove is not in use so birds wont attempt to make a home in there when the stove isnt running. Make sure the installer uses a standoff outside to keep the pipe from rotating downward and possibly unhooking. Are you going to utilize outside air? With this setup, you obviously arent going to use the topvent kit.
 
Great point about the first 90 being a 'T'. I'll make sure that's their intent. The installer is the one who said 4" pipe is necessary. That lead me to believe he at least has a clue that he knows what he's doing. Another great point about a cap on the 45 when not in use. TY. The installer did mention about a standoff. I have to inquire if an outside air kit is in the plans.

Top vent seems like it would eliminate a 90 and make it more efficient. Should we consider that? Would it reduce the need for 4" pipe? Should I just leave the install with 4" and go top vent anyway?

Thanks for help.
Russ
 
no, forget the top vent idea....since you need to go thru the wall, you'll need to go through with pellet vent. Install 4", making sure its 4" and not 3".
 
Take a wander through the website forums at the bottom of my post. If you are going through a wall to vent like most of us its just a matter of a 5' vertical outside the building to get enough draft to vent if the power goes out. You don't even need that but for the small bit of smoke that will escape into the house if the electrics go out. One of the simple kits you can buy at Tractor Supply for $250 is plenty in most cases.
Here is the manual for the American Energy Systems Countryside or Magnum as its now called. Check out page 19-21 and you will see typical installations most people use. That will give you a fairly good idea what you are looking at doing.
 
HarryBack said:
no, forget the top vent idea....since you need to go thru the wall, you'll need to go through with pellet vent. Install 4", making sure its 4" and not 3".

Thanks HB. Since the installer recommended 4" as opposed to 3" (and he mentioned an adapter to accomodate it), I'd think he's headed in the right direction. Agreed?

swimmer
 
yeah, swimmer, it sounds like he might be.....be forewarned tho, if you use 4" pipe, and you choose to bring in outside air, you'll need an additional hole in the wall for the intake pipe. Harman doesnt make a intake passthru for 4" pipe. Intake air in your case might look a bit weird with so much pipe showing. Just to check the installer, measure the OD of the pipe....4" pipe is around 5" OD. And yea, he'd need an adapter, since the exhaust nipple on the XXV is 3". It sounds like he's covering all the bases except maybe for outside air, which we argue about here nonstop.
 
Thanks Harry. Extremely helpful. So clue me in, what's the debate about outside air? I'd think it's more efficient, hands down. Unfortunately it sounds like I might not be able to go that route though. Like you said, an inordinate amount of pipe would look ridiculous.

Russ
 
oh, you can still bring in outside air, it'll be painfully obvious you did so as well. There is slight disagreement with outside air here in pellet stoves, and alot of disagreement with outside air with other feul sources, such as wood. Do a search here, and you'll see.
 
I would use a T clean out at the first 90 Outside also
T at the stove and a T after it passes through the wall.
 
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