wondering if anyone has had luck using the blue starter gel to start their wood fires.I have a recent load of 19 percent moisture content locust that i'm really struggling with to get going.
thanks.
thanks.
pellet starter gel
- Thread starter krav51
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i measured the center of a pretty big piece after splitting.Is that the accepted procedure? thanks
Why dont you let us know what you currently are doing to get a fire started. Once we know what you are doing we can help you fine tune for more success.
I cut a bunch of smaller pieces up,and build up a crisscross pattern with lots of air space in between. Ive been using small fire starters under the pile.it's just been very hit and miss.
Bad LP
Minister of Fire
Ben Stark
Member
Top down method works great for me. Also make sure you leave the stove door open about an inch for the first 15 minutes after lighting it, because the fire needs extra air to get established. It goes without saying to stay near the stove during that time.
I use the gel and it works well for me, because I have a cold exterior chimney, paper tends to smoke too much. Use lots of kindling, softwoods work best for kindling. You can even use sticks scavenged from the ground outside as long as they aren’t wet. Kindling should be skinny like 1/2 inch so it catches quickly.
Lots of folk use super cedars and like them but they are too costly in my opinion.
I use the gel and it works well for me, because I have a cold exterior chimney, paper tends to smoke too much. Use lots of kindling, softwoods work best for kindling. You can even use sticks scavenged from the ground outside as long as they aren’t wet. Kindling should be skinny like 1/2 inch so it catches quickly.
Lots of folk use super cedars and like them but they are too costly in my opinion.
no matter the wood, if the pieces are small enough they will light. Try going smaller.
I use pine lumber scraps when starting so its not much of an issue for me. If i dont have those, i usually come across a few 1/2"-1" pieces in the wood pile i put aside. I use two larger splits, place a supercedar in between, and criss cross 3-4 small pieces over the starter. Works everytime.
I came across an electric/hydraulic splitter a few years ago on craigslist. Its great for when i have to make kindling from large pieces. I keep it in the basement near the wood pile.
I use pine lumber scraps when starting so its not much of an issue for me. If i dont have those, i usually come across a few 1/2"-1" pieces in the wood pile i put aside. I use two larger splits, place a supercedar in between, and criss cross 3-4 small pieces over the starter. Works everytime.
I came across an electric/hydraulic splitter a few years ago on craigslist. Its great for when i have to make kindling from large pieces. I keep it in the basement near the wood pile.
For cold starts I use the rutland firestarter squares. You get 144 of them for less than $20. I use just one normally and it works great. When its a little warmer outside and the fire wants to be stubborn a piece or two of fatwood with the square really makes it take off.
Ben Stark
Member
Top down method in a nutshell:
Criss cross larger pieces on the bottom of fire box, using smaller pieces as you go, top it off with kindling wood. Light the top, and leave the air control fully open until all the wood is burning well. (Also leave stove door open an inch under supervision for 15 minutes) The fire burns it’s way down through the wood and won’t smother itself. It starts small and hot to warm the flue and gradually spreads down to the larger pieces of wood. It should burn for about an hour and a half before you need to add more wood.
Criss cross larger pieces on the bottom of fire box, using smaller pieces as you go, top it off with kindling wood. Light the top, and leave the air control fully open until all the wood is burning well. (Also leave stove door open an inch under supervision for 15 minutes) The fire burns it’s way down through the wood and won’t smother itself. It starts small and hot to warm the flue and gradually spreads down to the larger pieces of wood. It should burn for about an hour and a half before you need to add more wood.
vwmike
Feeling the Heat
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I need one. Some days are a struggle if there are no embers or coals left from the night. I'm tired of struggling
charger4406
Feeling the Heat
If available get map gas(yellow bottle), its quite a bit hotter than propane and doesn't cost much more.
MAD MARK
Feeling the Heat
charger4406
Feeling the Heat
Not by much
MAP-Pro gas burns at a temperature of 3,730 degrees Fahrenheit, while propane burns at 3,600 F.
charger4406
Feeling the Heat
Sawset
Minister of Fire
I'll second the replies about using a few pcs of softer wood. Softer woods seems to char and stay ignited longer and easier, allowing the locust to do the same only at its own slower pace. Also it helps to leave the door propped open an inch to give it plenty of air for 15min at startup to make sure it is fully burning. I'm also having trouble with white oak right now and am having to do that almost every time. It needs to get to an initial coal stage going on the surface, charred, before it will maintain itself. Other woods burn like a match, but not this stuff, even if the moisture is down where it should be.
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