Paragon 5440 Pellet Stove. Is this a switch or relay

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Tim772

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 23, 2008
5
MD
I have a 5440 pellet stove. It was running great until. I contacted the manufacture and they don't make it or parts for this stove. I tested the pressure switch and it was fine. Then I bypassed what I believe a relay or micro switch. It appears it controls the augur motor. When I bypassed it everything worked fine. Does anyone know if I can change this out with another type. I don't think I will be able to find the same one, since as said before they don't make parts for this stove anymore.
 

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That just looks like a common snap switch to me. The rating should be on it somewhere. You should be able to mount any similar type there and make it work. If you can see the model number or any other on there for that matter try Googling it. You might just land on one that way. Graingers probably has them and someone put up a link a few weeks ago to a place online that sold stuff like this really cheap but I can't recall it offhand. You might be able to get one by taking it in your hand right down to the local plumbing heating supply. Not Lowes or HD but the places the plumbers and contractors get their stuff. That is a common off the shelf part used in lots of furnaces, heater and the like and surely they catalog something that will match or replace it. If its hooked to the auger motor I would say you have either the high or low limit switch that stops the auger motor when the pot is too cold or if the fire gets too high and it is overheating. There should be a number printed on the side, top or bottom to give you the degrees and it would be called a HI LIMIT or LOW LIMIT snapswitch.
If you can't find one locally or get more specific info here try the iburnpellets and iburncorn fourms as all these stoves use very similar switches.
 
Tim,

I saw one of these stoves listed on Craig's list for $650 dollars. They had the stove listed as being manufactured by the US Stove company. Maybe if you contact them they can help with a manual and/or part number for your switch.
 
I just though of something. It seems sort of chitty that when you contacted the company they didn't give you any info besides the brush off. At the least they should have told you as much and more than I did about it. Real customer service there. I would keep that in mind next time I went to buy something. It seems that there is a lot of that going around this year.
 
Thanks guys for the info. I will check around for the part. I didn't think it would be to hard to find a replacement. The one on Craig's list for 650 is the one I have. I only paid 500 for it. It worked for a week. It does work when I by pass this switch. Anyway thanks for the replies and I will keep informed in case someone else has same problem. The manufacture did say that they don't receive to many calls for this stove because it was built simple and doesn't have problems. They also said the circuit board and pressure switch is not made anymore, so if someone has this unit and not using it, I will but the board and pressure switch from them.

Thanks again and Happy Holidays. Stay warm.
Tim
 
Simple low temp switch... $20 or so... The Whitfield low limit, which could fit, is ceramic, a bit heftier. $38 - $45. They should last several years. Someone on E-bay is selling the Whtifiled ones...he might have the other switch. They are on a few pellet stove parts sites.

http://www.hearthtools.com/pellet/2000.html One of these should work.

You can jump them until a replacement comes... just make sure your stove fire doesn't go out as the auger and will continue to run without a fire.
 
MButkus said:
Simple low temp switch... $20 or so... The Whitfield low limit, which could fit, is ceramic, a bit heftier. $38 - $45. They should last several years. Someone on E-bay is selling the Whtifiled ones...he might have the other switch. They are on a few pellet stove parts sites.

http://www.hearthtools.com/pellet/2000.html One of these should work.

You can jump them until a replacement comes... just make sure your stove fire doesn't go out as the auger and will continue to run without a fire.

i'd bet the one on your link would work, PM rod (hearthtools) he could probably tell ya for sure and at under 20 bucks its not exorbitant enough to be out much if it doesnt work. if it is the high limit switch though you do need it to be functional bypassing this function can lead to damage to the stove from warping or overheating the exhaust blower which normally would shut off if it gets too hot, this can lead to a rather unpleasant episode of smoke in the house, which we try to avoid as its bad for the image as you can imagine ;-P
 
So I am waiting on the low limit switch to come in and have bypassed it. The stove has been running well when this morning it shut off just like it did before I found out the switch went bad. After 30 minutes or so the stove came back on and is running fine. Is there a reason for this? Is something else wrong. I think even though I am having some problems, if they can be fixed I got a good deal on the stove, Thanks to all for the postings, they have been a great deal of help and I have learned so much about these things.
 
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