Oslo: Can you change out steel baffle with vermiculite?

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sullystull

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
May 7, 2008
296
WV Mountains
The baffle plates on my Oslo are starting to warp a bit--I have the "older" steel plates. I haven't seen a change in the stove's performance this season. However, I was wondering if 1. there is a need to change out the plates and burn tubes and 2. if this is even possible. Thanks,
 
They now use only vermiculite. If you ask your dealer he can get one in for you. The upside is it will not warp. The down side is you have to be careful not to bang it when loading the stove. It wont hold up as well to the bumps as the cast version does. When the retest was done they found it to be a cleaner burn also!
 
Is there a need to replace the 3 burn tubes as well? I have found the part online and was thinking of making the change-over myself. Anyone ever done this? Thanks,
 
jotulguy said:
The down side is you have to be careful not to bang it when loading the stove. It wont hold up as well to the bumps as the cast version does.
A minor but welcome change in stove operating habits, IMO. Smacking burn tubes isn't recommended, either.

When the retest was done they found it to be a cleaner burn also!

Of course. Less exposed steel/iron in a firebox is a good thing performance-wise in every way.
 
I called a dealer today and asked if it was possible to switch from steel to vermiculite baffle plates. He said he wasn't sure and recommended keeping the stove top temps below 600*. Not quite the answer I was looking for...
 
Called another dealer today:
Fireside Stone and Patio
Clarksville, Md

Spoke to Bill and he was extremely helpful. He said one could switch out and update their baffle plates to the vermiculite. He said he would even have the part shipped right to my door step. Just an FYI in case anyone else would like to make the change.
 
Sully, I have wanted to clean the burn tubes, but didn't see how to get them out. When you get your burn tubes in will you post how you did it.

My cast iron burn plates look fine after 10 years. I do some hot burns. I have replaced the insulation a few times, I wonder if it helped keep the temp of the steel more constant, preventing warping. Isn't the vick replacement 1 piece, how do you get that in? It all looks a bit fragile compared to the cast iron plates, but it must to be working.
 
Looks like you can get the old plates out through the top oval. However, you'll have to remove 3 bolts (I think) in order to take off the entire top plate--this will allow you to get the vermiculite in. I'll probably wait until the warm weather to make the change over but will certainly keep you posted.
 
xman23 said:
Sully, I have wanted to clean the burn tubes, but didn't see how to get them out. When you get your burn tubes in will you post how you did it.

My cast iron burn plates look fine after 10 years. I do some hot burns. I have replaced the insulation a few times, I wonder if it helped keep the temp of the steel more constant, preventing warping. Isn't the vick replacement 1 piece, how do you get that in? It all looks a bit fragile compared to the cast iron plates, but it must to be working.

Is there really a need for cleaning the burn tubes? The only thing that should be passing through them is air.
 
Mike, I don't know, but figured it couldn't hurt if I could get them out. How could they not get soot and ash in them. Maybe others can chime in about what they find in the tubes on there stoves.

I saw a chimney sweep remove the tubes for cleaning on stove he was cleaning. It wasn't a Jotel, and I didn't see what came out of them. To get them out on that stove he grabbed one with vice grip, and used a hammer to tap tube left or right. The tube had a slot in the end that engaged with pins at the end. I gave it a try on the Oslo, and the tube wouldn't move. It doesn't seam to be the same. From memory I remember there is a bolt thru the manifold / cradle that holds tubes. I didn't try takeing it apart.

Has anyone done this on a Oslo or other stoves?
 
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