Operate without Catalytic Combustor

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Play Hard

New Member
Feb 17, 2011
1
Northern Michigan
I just got a used Vermont Castings Encore 2140 (1990-91) and have two questions:

1) Might it be possible to operate without the catalytic combustor and still have the back chamber of the stove work to superheat the exhaust, thus acting to some extent like an efficient non-catalytic stove?

2) I am missing the rear refractory shield under the removable panel. Has anybody operated their stove with the catalytic combustor with the piece of refractory missing without any bad consequences?

I know a lot of answers can include "it's not recommended", but I'm lookng for realistic input regarding whether not somebody has experienced these scenarios and has some practical input. Thanks.
 
It will run like crap and cause problems running it with the damper closed and no cat. You also need that insulation plate. If you cant afford a cat and insulation plate, just dont burn the stove.
 
+1 I agree with the post above. A new cat will be about $180 to $200. Some have had success with making their own refractory boxes.. check out the links below. You could fashion the missing cover out of refractory board. You will need a correct fit though, for the stove to operate properly. The refractory is fairly fragile.. I would inspect the rest of it before use.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/70370/
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/42492/
 
#1: No, it won't be efficient. If it's the difference between freezing pipes and running this stove, then run the stove. It will probably be about the same as a pre-EPA stove, gobbling up wood and gunking up your chimney, but start making plans to get an efficient stove.

#2: I have a friend who has an old VC stove, possibly a catalytic unit. If you look in the back of the firebox, you can see a casting that has disintegrated and there's a very irregular opening going into the combustor area. He's been heating with it for at least one year and claims that it works "just fine."

I recommend that you start saving up for a good stove and perhaps use this in the meantime. In the long run, having a bad stove will consume more wood, lose heat and plug up your chimney. Cheaper in the long run to get the right stove.
 
ControlFreak said:
#1: No, it won't be efficient. If it's the difference between freezing pipes and running this stove, then run the stove. It will probably be about the same as a pre-EPA stove, gobbling up wood and gunking up your chimney, but start making plans to get an efficient stove.

#2: I have a friend who has an old VC stove, possibly a catalytic unit. If you look in the back of the firebox, you can see a casting that has disintegrated and there's a very irregular opening going into the combustor area. He's been heating with it for at least one year and claims that it works "just fine."

I recommend that you start saving up for a good stove and perhaps use this in the meantime. In the long run, having a bad stove will consume more wood, lose heat and plug up your chimney. Cheaper in the long run to get the right stove.

To add to this I would also say it would be more of a hazard to use.
If the cat is the issue replace it and get the stove working the way it is meant to be used.
If you try to burn without the cat you could/would create a fire hazard and or damage the stove.
It would be cheaper in the long run to not run the stove; then to run it.

When you deal with fire it is better to be safe then sorry.
 
Would you operate a vehicle without brakes? The cat is engineered into the stove for a reason. DON'T DO IT.
 
I would not use it without a cat or the correct parts. If you want to keep the stove and your house intact. The parts you need now are important and if you keep running without them it'll result in more parts warping and breaking, making it costly to rebuild the stove.
 
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