Okay here goes, lemme have it!

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Thanks Den, I looked at Menards today at the Selkirk parts since I have 2 three foot sections that came with the stove.
I'm amazed at the ceiling support / adapter the want us to use. It has four 2 inch wide straps that are to be nailed to the framed in hole through the floor joists. Hard to believe that's all that holds 16 feet of class A up.
I will get it figured out and be burning soon. Just need to put up some Duroc this week and get the 450 lb addition down the steps.
Thanks guys for the help and oh aansorge, even though I bought a different stove than the one you found I'll still buy you an Ambergeddon when you get to Mad town.
Dan
 
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Congrats on youre new stove, Dan!

There are many folks here doing just fine with class A running up the side of the house; class A is insulated.

I believe the pipe sold by Woodstock is Olympia brand. Call them to verify.

Maybe start a new thread on your chimney project. . .
My woodstock pipe is Selkirk But I also bought the good stuff stainless at full blast i can touch it the wife cannot .. single wall would be close to red . I too ran up a Chaise similar to your Preway lokin fireplace Cept mine was 14 in OD with the 8 Od stainless inside i actually coulve left the stainless inside and run the selkirk 8 od up thru it all but i had already removed the 8 in from the 14 .. Doh woulda had quadruple walls of protection serious overkill ..
 
I dunno, maybe Olympia is the brand of flex liner, rather than class A pipe, that Woodstock sells. . .maybe they switched brands. . .maybe I'm not remembering correctly. My main point for Dan is that it's not "Woodstock" brand pipe, and if you call them, they will tell you exactly what it is.

Thanks Den, I looked at Menards today at the Selkirk parts since I have 2 three foot sections that came with the stove.
I'm amazed at the ceiling support / adapter the want us to use. . .
If you have questions or need part #'s for Menard's to order stuff that they don't stock, call Selkirk.:-)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/supervent-is-super-cheap-at-lowes.71230/
 
Point taken I just went thru all this 5,500 bux worth Twas a great Exper.. My company paid for it all . If I had to do over on my Dime Ive found the 2100 degree stainless pipe joints and Tee's etc Much less expensive that at Woodstock but thats Par for course one stop shopping is always more costly . My first bout with modern stove tech Im old school from Alaska with single wall pipes etc in a cabin Waking to light coals and 31 degrees in cabin 2 splits added at wake up a small log 30 min later almost run ya out of cabin .. he he.. cook eggs on stove top .. Lowes is a good source too but seems cheaply built But Eh .. the selkirk seems like 30 yr pipe
 
My install uses the wall support inside a wall sposedly will/can hold 60 feet of the 2100 stainless the clean out Tee sits Atop a plate with a circle cutout for clean out cap removal six or eight good size screws hold this wall bracket to two 2x4 added to studs in wall. clearence is correct at full tilt the bracket is maybe hot as a day in florida 105 degree or so . certainley not enuff to be fire causing .. theyre are six fire extinguishers in house mounted all round house easy knock out windows strategicaly placed wifes scared to death of a fire her family house burned as a child i do understand her fears .. but 300 a month elec bill is scary to..
 
Hey guys, sorry haven't checked lately. I've got the cement board up and still need to put the pipe and ceiling mount in before I can drywall the ceiling.
Tom, you are right Woodstock sells the Selkirk brand pipe. I'm going with the double wall stove connector pipe due to the clearance to the wall. Justin at Woodstock said the double wall DSP from Selkirk would allow me to get as close as 6 inches to combustibles. I have 9 inches from the edge of the elbow and increases from there. He also said it is cheaper at Menards. What a guy!
I'm considering the rear heat shield in order to get it back into the corner farther. I can go to 12 inches from the back corner of the stove to the wall with it and need 18 without for my corner installation.
Has anyone seen the Fireview with the rear heat shield? Is it an eye sore or even noticeable?
The wife is shopping for tile and stone for the hearth and walls, ain't this fun?
Dan
 
Yes the rear heat shield is painted to match stove and gives a finished look even on my woodstock with OAA installed to as i turn corner to wer stoves located i can see rear of it for a second and this stuff on rear makes it look finished .. It seems woodstock has also been keeping an eye on what wives want too custom colors rear finish panels etc dbl wall conn. pipe which stays nice n black or painted to match decor ,Where as single wall would just burn off and look not so great ,Mike Justin & Penny are Solid NeuHampshau Folk Makes you feel good about doing Buis. with them Makes me look at American craftsmanShip Again .. One could even order the Rear panel and OAA in a different color to Cordinate the look Against the rear or corner walls finishes etc
 
[Hearth.com] Okay here goes, lemme have it!
We'll guys it's finally done. Had my first fire tonight anyway.
I got the rear heat shield and outside air connector. I also painted the pipe to match the metallic brown on the stove, it blends in nicely with the wall.
The rear shield allows 12 inches to the wall from the corners. The left side wall tile seemed to get pretty warm when the stove was at 350 or so. I plan to make a free standing shield for that side. I'm thinking 6 by 24 sheet metal with breaks on the edges to stiffen and attach the bottom to a solid piece of 1 by 1 solid iron bar I happen to have.
Probably not a big deal at 350 but when I get to 500 it might be a problem.
Anyway I'm pleased with the way it turned out and wanted to thank you guys and show a couple pics:
BEFORE
[Hearth.com] Okay here goes, lemme have it!
After:
[Hearth.com] Okay here goes, lemme have it!
 
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Looks great!
 
Looks great!
+1
Congrats, Dan!

The rear shield allows 12 inches to the wall from the corners. The left side wall tile seemed to get pretty warm when the stove was at 350 or so. I plan to make a free standing shield for that side. I'm thinking 6 by 24 sheet metal with breaks on the edges to stiffen and attach the bottom to a solid piece of 1 by 1 solid iron bar I happen to have.
Probably not a big deal at 350 but when I get to 500 it might be a problem. . .
If your install meets the 12" CTC requirement, I wouldn't rush to put up a heat shield. . .maybe keep an eye on the tile temps with an IR thermometer. 500° stove top doesn't necessarily mean that the Fireview is throwing a lot of heat off the sides of the stove. It will, if you run it hard with lots of air and lots of flame in the firebox, but if you turn down the air for a mellow cat burn, much more heat comes off the top than off the sides of the stove. If you do the heat shield, I think it's supposed to be more effective with the bottom open to facilitate air movement behind the shield.
 
Good choice Dan, you should be happy with that stove and should be easy to learn to operate.
 
It is the infra red that is heating the dark tile.
I put a 4 inch wide 23 high piece of polished aluminum at the corner to reflect the IR and UV forward and the tile stayed barely warm. I'll make a permanent one that won't show much.
I'm running the cat as the book suggests after a nice bed of coals and 10 minutes after reloading.
The air intake is at 1.
The stove top then runs 375 and the pipe is around 225. Just a bit of fire on the wood but fire blobs forming out of the air near the top of the firebox dancing around.
It's been in the low 20s all day and the house is 73. The furnace is set at 68,,, wonder why it hasn't run all day?
This thing is amazing!
I need to re-split some of my wood though since 3 or 4 inch splits work perfect. The stacks I have for the old fireplace are 6 inch splits oak. But that will double the number of logs in the pile and last much longer.
Stay warm,
Dan
 
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