Oil changes in small engines do you?

[johnsopi]

Oil changes in small engines lawn mowers,generators, log splitter how often and do they have filters? I've never changed the oil in these engines
But think that I should do my log splitter. Some of stuff was bought used and who knows it's history.

 

[smokinj]

Most have No filters, and once a season for me.

 

[LLigetfa]

Oil and filter changes once a year whether they need it or not.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

It depends what it is. I have a chipper/leaf shredder that has always burned so much oil I just continually fill it. I check oil at each fill up because of it.

Every few years on the lawnmower and snow blower. They really aren't used enough to worry about it much. I check to make sure there is enough oil in them before firing them up though. For the snowblower I check the night before the storm because the last thing I want to deal with at 5am is climbing over crap to get to the fresh oil and/or screwing with the gas can. With my old blower I'd fire it off just to make sure the carb was primed also.

Matt

 

[PapaDave]

Changed the splitter oil and hydraulic fluid early last year. Splitter seems to use a little oil. I check the oil in everything often, about every other use.
The tractor oil got changed this past summer, and I try to do it at least once/yr., since I use the tractor year round for plowing snow, mowing, and hauling firewood.

 

[LLigetfa]

Many of the small engines take so little oil that it's easier to just change them all once a year than keep track of which you changed when. Lots of them don't have any sort of filter either so best to get the crud out sooner than later.

 

[johnsopi]

Do they make a oil for small engines?

 

[charly]

Do they make a oil for small engines?

Yup, Amsoil does. That's all I use. Never any problems. Once a year oil change.

 

[wellbuilt home]

I use amsoil in all my small motors . The stuff is much better then standard oil .
I change every thing after thanks giving .
This year we where busy and didn't get to it .
The snow is killing me here .
UPS drop a few boxes of lube on my porch two weeks ago . its been snowing ever since .
John

 

[charly]

I use amsoil in all my small motors . The stuff is much better then standard oil .
I change every thing after thanks giving .
This year we where busy and didn't get to it .
The snow is killing me here .
UPS drop a few boxes of lube on my porch two weeks ago . its been snowing ever since
John

That's OK John, you know Amsoil is still doing it's job ;-)

 

[thinkxingu]

Most are saying once a year, BUT: before storing or before putting into use? Since I use Mobil 1 5W-30 for all my machines (left over from my Frontier's miserly 3.5 qt. requirement), I change twice a year.

S

 

[John_M]

thinkxingu, I top off as necessary and change the oils and filters once a year before storage. I do not want the machinery to sit for a full season with a crankcase full of used oil. I am certainly NOT CERTAIN my way is the best way. However, it does make sense to me so that's what I do.

 

[charly]

thinkxingu, I top off as necessary and change the oils and filters once a year before storage. I do not want the machinery to sit for a full season with a crankcase full of used oil. I am certainly NOT CERTAIN my way is the best way. However, it does make sense to me so that's what I do.

You can also fog you motors, spraying a fogging oil into the engine thru the carb until the motor stalls. Then take out the sparkplugs and spray the cylinders. Amsoil makes a spray for just that purpose. Myself I choose to run all my stuff twice a month for about a half hour, making sure the oil gets up to temperature each time. I don't like to let anything sit . Also any pull start 4 stroke equipment, I always pull over slowly until you feel compression and stop, leaving the motor in the position now assures both valves are fully closed and the valve springs are not sitting in a compressed state all winter or anytime. Keeps the valve springs from getting fatigued. Easy to do.

 

[EJL923]

At LEAST once a season.. Check fluid before each use. It differs for each machine, find an old manual. My snowblower is every 25 hrs, push lawnmower every 5 hrs, though i usally go up to 10 hrs. I dont mind changing it often, as it is usually 10-20 oz of oil and can be done in a few minutes. I also shorten that time if ive been working it extra hard. for instance, this recent storm in the northeast had my snowblower working overtime with 22" of snow and 200' of driveway. Small engines can eat some oil, so even though i only have about 5 hrs on this oil, i will probably change it after 10 hrs instead of 25.

 

[jlove1974]

I change oil in the pushmower when I add oil to it In fact, I usually add used oil to it, and that Briggs and Scrapiron "quantum" 4.5 just keeps chuggin'.
BUT it's a MURRAY! I only mow with it when there is gravel or over splitter trash wood chips etc. It's easier than a weed trimmer, and was given to me.
Because it's easier to sharpen one blade than 3 on the Zero Turn...and my Ariens 1742 has a 'cam belt' drive and doesn't suffer blade impacts well. POS!

Tiller gets oil change in spring before gardening season starts, I only use Rotella 5W40 fully synthetic in it.
Same with my pressure washer. Same with my zero turn. Same with our dirtbikes. You get the idea...

 

[CTYank]

Most are saying once a year, BUT: before storing or before putting into use? Since I use Mobil 1 5W-30 for all my machines (left over from my Frontier's miserly 3.5 qt. requirement), I change twice a year.
S

Mobil 1 works great in 6 hp tiller & 8 hp snow-blower (both Tecumseh flatheads), but I've not changed either yet, and the snow-blower is in its 10th season. The oil is still almost like-new clean. If I had 500 hours on the oil, that'd be another story.

Some engines need an extension pipe-nipple into the drain hole before you can drain the oil into a bucket instead of all over the machine.
Change oil after engine has been run long enough to get fully up to temp, to get the max debris out.

5W-20 works great for cold-weather starts, too.

 

[cmnash]

I would line up all your machines on the next sunny day and have a oil changing party.

Any good quality detergent multi-viscosity oil would do. I use NAPA's 10w-40 , API rating SM/SL.

Old oil left in a crankcase is not good. Their lubricating qualities do deteriorate over time.

 

[jlove1974]

synthetics are significantly more robust than conventional oils if left in for extended periods of time. Also, the additive packages in automotive rated oils are simply weaker compared to HDEO oils such as Rotella, Delo, and other diesel-rated oils. These are also rated for use in autos. I basically use one oil for everything with a spark plug around here.
Many motorcycle riders/racers swear by Rotella in the crankcase, which is severe use due to the transmission also using the same oil...

Although I use Rotella syn, Rotella T is almost as robust and half the price. I just like the easier starts with the 5W rating vs the 15W rating.

Also, I wouldn't put xW20 weight conventional motor oil in anything I cared about lasting more than 50 hrs as far as outdoor power equipment.
Newer cars have ceramic-coated bearings and other friction-fighting updates that small engines simply do not have. And it's basically a ploy to
get better EPA gas mileage from Hondas and Fords. 20 weight is too thin, period.

 

[charly]

synthetics are significantly more robust than conventional oils if left in for extended periods of time. Also, the additive packages in automotive rated oils are simply weaker compared to HDEO oils such as Rotella, Delo, and other diesel-rated oils. These are also rated for use in autos. I basically use one oil for everything with a spark plug around here.
Many motorcycle riders/racers swear by Rotella in the crankcase, which is severe use due to the transmission also using the same oil...

Although I use Rotella syn, Rotella T is almost as robust and half the price. I just like the easier starts with the 5W rating vs the 15W rating.

Also, I wouldn't put xW20 weight conventional motor oil in anything I cared about lasting more than 50 hrs as far as outdoor power equipment.
Newer cars have ceramic-coated bearings and other friction-fighting updates that small engines simply do not have. And it's basically a ploy to
get better EPA gas mileage from Hondas and Fords. 20 weight is too thin, period.

Same thing here, I run Amsoil series 3000 5W-30 diesel oil in everything from my gas to my diesel vehicles. One oil does make it nice.

 

[bboulier]

I always change the filter and oil once a year in my mower. I don't have a large yard. The lot is 1/3 acre with house plus garden plus fruit trees plus flowers, so I don't do all that much mowing.

 

[wetwood]

Change oil once a year with 10w-30 Mobil 1 in all my small engines and never had a problem.

 

[burntime]

Tractor uses dino oil 3 times a year. Log splitter every few years and its synthetic. Its finally starting to darken and I will dump it this spring. Split 5-7 cord a year so not much run time... I think its been 2 or 3 on that motor... I use synthetic so it starts better in winter...

 

[Flatbedford]

I change the oil in my Honda mower in the fall/winter. My new to me, 43 year old Kohler powered Cub Cadet wants Straight 30 in the summer and 10W30 in the winter. Since I use it year round for snow clearing, mowing, wood hauling, etc., I guess it will get fall and spring oil changes. I have read about some people running 15W40 Rotella year round, instead of seasonal changes. I haven't decided what will be my long term routine.

 

[bogydave]

, I top off as necessary and change the oils and filters once a year before storage. I do not want the machinery to sit for a full season with a crankcase full of used oil. I am certainly NOT CERTAIN my way is the best way. However, it does make sense to me so that's what I do.

+1

I change engine oils right after last use after last use of the season, while still warm
or
If not hot, I run it till warm, shut it off,
pull the gas hose & drain tank into a gas can then run it out of gas.
Write date, hour meter etc on the filter (if it has one)
Synthetics for me, better heat reduction specs & sometimes it can be cold here.

I like to grab a tool that's ready to go.

On chain saws; I empty the gas also & then run till out of gas.
Almost after every use if I'm not going to cut for a few weeks.
A good time to rinse the bar oil tank with diesel too.
Pretty easy to check the fuel filter in the fuel tank, I do that when I think about it
or have running issues.

"Operations manuals" typically have "storage procedures"
I'm old enough to read them now. They have some good info in them.