Number of pulls required to start a husky 455 rancher

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fire_man

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Feb 6, 2009
2,716
North Eastern MA
My Husky Rancher 455 has needed at least 5 pulls from the day I bought it to start from cold. Warmed up its better. It runs great, idles well and overall I am very happy with it. I am comparing it to my old HD $99 special McCullough saw that started on the second pull every time. Yes I do use the decompression button and the primer bulb and choke it properly. I have changed the plug and filter already and checked the plug gap. I use the specified mix of synthetic oil. Is this just typical for this saw?
 
I've had perfectly good saws that Hudini himself couldn't get started in less than 5 minutes after you stopped counting pulls. If your's starts at 5 pulls thank your lucky stars and get back to cutting wood.
 
My 455 was the same way in the cold weather.Switched to 93 octane & now it seams to start with one or two less pulls.
starts on first pull every time after its warm.Great mid sized saw.
 
EatenByLimestone said:
Do you have it set for winter or summer?

Matt

There's nothing in the manual about winter or summer settings. I have never adjusted the carb - it starts after 5-6 pulls winter or summer. I always run 93 octane gas.
 
I thought I read that Huskys have them too. On my Stihl there is a little plastic piece above the air filter that forces air over the engine before it goes into the filter. It's like a pre warmer. It seems to make it easier to start for me.

Matt
 
All of my huskies take several pulls.The funny thing is,I have pos poulan that can sit for a year and will start first or second pull.
 
kartracer said:
All of my huskies take several pulls.The funny thing is,I have pos poulan that can sit for a year and will start first or second pull.

My old MCcullough saw was the same way - 1 or 2 pulls after sitting a year. Sounds like for my Husky a bunch of pulls is the norm, so I'll take some previous advise and just go cut some wood!
 
I would suspect that the saw is running a tad on the lean side.The factory setting is set this way and uses the idle adjustment to speed it up. IMO, I would richen the low side just a tad, just to see what happens. Does the saw bog down when trying to accelerate? Is the choke closing all the way when activated? Ken
 
Rancher 455 here too. Even at less than 10 degrees out, it starts within 5 pulls. had it once where it started fine 2nd pull, set it down to warm up, and it died. 3 pulls later it fired right up. then died. 15+ pulls later it fired up, and ran fine through 2+ cords of rounds. High that day was 8 degrees, at 8,000 feet. could have been some of the problem? could have been operator error. normally the saw takes less than 3 pulls. usually 2. 20+ cords cut with it.???? who knows, if it really bothers you that much, send saw to another forum member and get a stihl. They NEVER malfunction. just ask any stihl owner.
 
fire_man,
5 pulls is absolutely normal for any saw. 3-4 to prime and 1-2 to start. The only *common* change in this would be saws/devices with primer bulbs.

S
 
Now you're making me wonder. My Husky 450 always starts on the first pull. Maybe there's something wrong with it...
 
It may have something to do with how hard you pull. Try it with a limp wrist. Maybe they aren't pulling it right.

Whenever the wife complains out her computer not working right, I tell her she didn't click it (the mouse) right. (always works when I click it)
 
thinkxingu said:
fire_man,
5 pulls is absolutely normal for any saw. 3-4 to prime and 1-2 to start. The only *common* change in this would be saws/devices with primer bulbs.

S

My 455 Rancher does have a primer bulb. Usually when there is a primer bulb on a piece of equipment its a little easier to start in my experience. Another post suggested a lean mixture was the culprit. I hate to fiddle with it, it never bogs down when I get into a massive log. I think I should just be happy it starts by pull #5 and next time try a Stihl. It seems if you do all the research Stihl owners are generally the happiest bunch. All the tree companies I have ever dealt with (total of three) use 100% Stihl.
 
Ken said:
I would suspect that the saw is running a tad on the lean side.The factory setting is set this way and uses the idle adjustment to speed it up. IMO, I would richen the low side just a tad, just to see what happens. Does the saw bog down when trying to accelerate? Is the choke closing all the way when activated? Ken

The saw has never bogged down in any wood. It starts on the 5-6 pull either on a 90 degree Summer day or a 10 degree Winter day, so I figured it was not the choke, but it's worth a look...
 
dave11 said:
Now you're making me wonder. My Husky 450 always starts on the first pull. Maybe there's something wrong with it...

Is it still under warranty?
Are you using 200 octane?

You could lend it to friend. When you get it back it willn't start at all!
 
fire_man, leave it alone!! I've got a couple Stihl saws, and they all start the same: 2-3 pulls on choke, 1-2 pulls on run = 5 pulls. Your saw's running perfectly--now go out and cut something.

S
 
thinkxingu said:
fire_man, leave it alone!! I've got a couple Stihl saws, and they all start the same: 2-3 pulls on choke, 1-2 pulls on run = 5 pulls. Your saw's running perfectly--now go out and cut something.

S

Good answer - I'm leaving well enough alone. 5 pulls is no big deal - It just seemed most my other equipment always starts after 1-2 pulls, even the 2 stroke stuff.
 
My 455 usually starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull from cold. First from hot. Pump the priming bulb five or six times, click in the compression release (i usually forget this, though), full choke, pull. Usually a pop but no start. Click the choke to half, pull, usually starts, maybe one more pull in this position.

There are three adjustments on the carb. H is for mixture at wide open throttle, L is mixture at idle, and LA is a throttle stop screw that sets the minimum idle speed.

If you are happy with the way it is actually cutting, then probably leave the H mixture alone. You really should have access to a tachometer to adjust the H screw. However, tuning the L and LA screws might make it start a little easier, and possibly idle a little better. A tach is handy, but not necessary for the idle adjust, as long as you have an idea of what an idling chainsaw should sound like.

Start the saw, warm it up for a few minutes, maybe cut some wood or something. Then, how is it idling? Slow? Fast? Rough? You want to make sure it idles slow enough that the chain does not move at idle. I have found that an idle a little faster than the bottom speed that it can be adjusted to with the LA screw and still run helps in hot starting. Adjust to the desired idle speed with the LA screw.

The L screw makes the idle mixture leaner as you screw it in (clockwise.) You might try turning it slowly and listening. If the engine speeds up and keeps running smoothly as you turn it in, maybe you will want it to be a little leaner. If you turn it out (richer) and the engine sounds smoother, but a little slower, you might try leaving it a little richer. Once you have adjusted the L mixture to where it "sounds right" and is smooth, then go back to the LA screw and reset the speed to a nice brisk idle that does not have the chain moving w/o the chain brake on. (This will be a lot slower than the speed that the chain starts to move at!)

The two mixture screws (L,H) will have limiters on them that keep you from making any dramatic changes, thanks to the EPA. The limiters can be removed for a wider range of adjustment, but I believe this also removes any remaining warranty. You most likely won't need to remove the limiters to accomplish a good setting, unless you are at high altitude.

PM me with your e-mail address if you need the shop manual for the 455. It's helpful.
 
Beowulf said:
The L screw makes the idle mixture leaner as you screw it in (clockwise.) You might try turning it slowly and listening. If the engine speeds up and keeps running smoothly as you turn it in, maybe you will want it to be a little leaner. If you turn it out (richer) and the engine sounds smoother, but a little slower, you might try leaving it a little richer.
I find that as you lean out the saw with the L jet, while it will rev up and sound smooth, it will bog when trying to accelerate. You need to richen up the L jet until the saw will accelerate without bogging.
 
As long as it's only been a few months since I last used it, my Husky 55 almost always starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull cold and the first pull hot. My Stihl MS440 usually starts up in 3-4 pulls cold, first pull every time hot. By contrast my "cheap" Craftsman 45cc starts up the first pull 75% of the time.....of course it's the only one with a primer bulb. One of the worst starting saws I had was an MS250C "ez start" that thing was a pain the butt to start!!

As long as it consistently starts in 5 pulls or less I really wouldn't worry about it--I know a fair number of guys pulling 10+ times on their saws.....

NP
 
Any thing that sits as long as a saw does and starts with 5 pulls I would consider OK.

My 345 has a primer and it takes 3 pulls and it's running

The 357 takes 6-8. I always have the chain brake on with the rear handle locked between my legs when starting. The 357 will fire and if I'm really quick I can get the choke off and keep it running but usually I have to shut the choke off and give it one more pull.
 
I have a 455 rancher. Always use 93 octane gas. If saw runs fine when up and going leave the mixture screws alone. Here is what I do FWIW Full choke,2 or 3 primer bulb hits, and pull 2 or 3 times I leave decompressor alone( hasnt yanked my arm outa socket yet) and she is up and runnin. Again my 2 cents.
 
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