New Yorker Add On Need Help With Piping Diagram

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Wood Pirate

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jun 25, 2008
144
Orange County, NY
did a sketch of my system but am having alot of trouble attaching the sketch to this post.

In any case I want to pipe my new New Yorker WC90 to my existing Utica oil boiler. My current system includes 5 Zones.

3 Are used for heating sections of the house upstairs. One zone is dedicated to my 50 Bock indirect fired hot water heater. The Fifth zone is a spare I left when I did the original piping.

I was planning on using the spare zone as my dump zone. I would run a pipe to the garage from this zone and install in the garage either a section of baseboard or a modine type heater.

My questions are:
1. Does anyone have reccomedations on how I should pipe between the two boiler?
2. What size pipe should I use to my dump zone and what BTU unit should I use in my garage for dumping heat?

Thanks

Paul
 
Yes the indirect has a dedicated zone valve.

Do you know of any posts that have an actual diagram I can look at? I just printed out the post you recommended and am reading through it now.

Thanks
 
Just thinking-if you use the garage as another zone I presume it will be heated all the time to prevent freezing of any cold pipes. This may not be your best option. Without storage you don't have the reserve capacity to take care of excess heat. You also must think about losing power-I believe New Yorker recommends using an automag valve to dump excess heat to the largest zone with a power outage. With power you possibly could just use an aquastat wired in parallel with the largest zone thermostat on the wood boiler to turn on the largest zone upon overheat. If your wood boiler has a tankless coil (and since you already have an indirect water heater) you could add a thermostatic valve piped from domestic water to a drain that will load the boiler on overheat. You have the option of series or parallel piping. I know I go against the grain here but I think a simple series set up with an aquastat turning on a circulator is pretty simple.
I would plan on some future storage so as to keep a good burn going. If your loads are minimal you'll get a lot of smoldering. Make sure everything you do is well thought out and planned for safety reasons.

Mike
 
Any luck finding pipe diagram for the new yorker wc- 90 , I'm installing the same system at my home.
 
I would think you could use just about any of the multitude of piping layouts shown on the forum here. A parallel set up seems to be most popular. The devil is in the details. Look at thepros and cons of each and try to get it right the first time. I am sure New Yorker provides their own piping layout in the manual. I do have an older WC-120 boiler manual with the layout diagram. I may be able to fax you a copy if your interested. Just PM me.

Mike
 
The add on has not come in yet. Kind of pissed off at the dealer I bought it from. They dont like to return phone calls. But in any case:
I started piping doing some minor piping today. I had to move my circulator and cut in a couple of Tee's and a new zone for a recently added porch.

I have been following the vague directions that come with the New Yorker boiler but am still planning on running a dump zone into my garage. I dont think it will freeze but may fill the system with antifreeze just in case.

As for the dump zone I am looking for some sort of radiator to put in the garage that would have sufficient btu's to use as a dump. I thought about just bolting baseboard to the walls or buying a modine unit heater or something similar.

My next step is to figure out how I should set it up for future storage. Where the storage piping should run.
 
O.K. I think I understand the paraell piping, but most diagrams I have seen show an existing boiler with one common circulator pump, with zone valves for each zone throughout the house. My current oil boiler has circulator pumps on the return side of my system, The New yorker uses a L4006b aquast to control the overheat pump, sense I plan to use one of my existing zones for a dump zone do I need the second pump shown in most diagrams. And also sense I have ciculators do I need to install the power failure by- pass zone valve, or will the system gravity feed through my pumps. Does this make any sense to anyone?
 
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