New VC Resolute Acclaim, Chimney, Rigid Liner Install COMPLETED!! THANKS!!

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

Thanks everyone. Y'all have bene very free with the advise and encouragement. I first psoted a question about re-installing an old 1983 Insert :red: this past spring. Much lurking and learning.

I ended up buying a VC Resolute Acclaim. Then I carefully cut though the existing Heat-a-Lator steel fireplace box, built wood scaffolding, a 4' brick chimney extension, Rigid 6" liner with insulation, and an additional 3' Class A pipe at the top about 18" total. I also extended floor protection 18" in front of the hearth. I've still got to lay some Marble on there.

The Inspector said he'd not seen a nicer install. He measured a couple spots, reviewed my digital pic's, UL documentation and that was it.

It works great even in warmer weather the air is very responsive to the damper. For cleaning I can remove the Class A pipe to clean on the roof without a ladder.

Question to Acclaim owners: What temps do you like to see at the griddle? I really start seeing major heat production at around 500-550. What range do you like to operate in? I'm burning mostly Ash and Silver Maple.

Thanks again for helping guide me to the warmth and light!
Mike P

 

[wahoowad]

Please oh please tellme you have some pics? I'd love to see some pics of this steel firebox work and your original 1983 setup compared.

 

[zzr7ky]

I have some Pic's. Can't post right away. The 1983 set-up I was thinking of was for sale local. You all convinced me to do more homework and investigation.

The Heatalator unit: I measured carefully and went up though the unit behind the damper area. I cut a 16" tall by 10" wide hole in the 1/4" firebox, then with the use of a cardbourd template I cut the 1/8 shell of the Heat-a-lator to the shape of the Liner. I cut it with a 4.5" cutoff wheel and SawzAll - Not the best, use a torch, and you'll likely need a good hammer drill to remove the code specified masonry from behind the shelf area. I think avoiding the tough and complex damper area on these is a good move.

ATB,
Mike P

 

[begreen]

Way to go Mike. Sounds like a job well done. Light her up and settle down with a cool one in front of that nice fire.

 

[landrand]

zzr7ky,
I've been looking at your other threads on how planned to extend your chimney and line it with rigid liner. With my setup, I pretty much have to do the same thing. In my fireplace, the top of the flue to the damper plate is about 10'. I need to run about 10' of rigid liner in a 12"x12" flue. What vendor of rigid did you buy? Did you buy the rigid liner on ebay per your other post:

(broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&item=300022962110&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1)

What about insulation? Your other post mentions Saf-T Wrap..

How did you attach the class A on top of the chimney and attach to the rigid liner? Simpson transition plant, anchor plate???
Any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Sandor]

I burn an old Resolute Acclaim.

I really do not look for an ideal griddle temp. My strategy is once I have I a nice bed of coals, I close the damper and let the stove go. I regulate how much heat I want by the air intake. Keeping an eye on the chimney tells the story. If it starts to smoke, the stove is too cold. This being said, a griddle temp above the 500 degree range usually delivers a clean burn.

If your just getting started, remember that what is coming out of the chimney tells the story. You want NO visible smoke. Whatever adjustments you make, give it a few minutes then go outside and check what the chimney is putting out. No smoke - clean burn, smokey burn - not good.

The top load feature is the bomb!

My only real gripe is that it is difficult to get a clean burn while not producing too much heat.... for those 50 degree days.

All in all, the Resolute Acclaim is one fine heating appliance.

 

[elkimmeg]

the griddle range I ued was 450 -650 A member did the math heat transfere. According to his thermo dymanics calculations a stove and 600 produces 100% than a stove at 450
My resolute Acclaim delivered what I expected, nice stove

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

On the extension I used RHL Rigid from here in Michigan NOT the Ebay pipe. The Ebay stuff is NOT UL... .

I also mail ordered a case of Simpson Safe-T-wrap insulation. Since the Sipsoin insulation is in 2' lengths is is good to line the joints up so the insulation fastens closed easily. It it does not you may need a couple band clamps to help snap it up.

At the top of the 10' existing chimney I put 4' of brick anf 2 more 12x12" tiles. At the top of that I used an RHL 15" square flashing for a 6" pipe. I used the flashing-pass thoug upside down and through bolted a Selkirk adapter to the flashing with 4 Stainless though bolts. Similar to an anchor plate, but less expesive for me as I had a 3' length of Selkirk class A and Selkirk adapter on hand.

It is solid and I can easily remove the class A and clean without a ladder. It drafts like crazy even in warmis weather it gives good control of the draft right away. :coolsmile:

I watched the smoke close this weekend and I'm getting a pretty good handle on it.

Scored a nice 18" diameter tree at church yesterday. The garden club even helped deal with the brush and loading.

Thanks!
Mike P

 

[Hogwildz]

Hi -

On the extension I used RHL Rigid from here in Michigan NOT the Ebay pipe. The Ebay stuff is NOT UL... .

I also mail ordered a case of Simpson Safe-T-wrap insulation. Since the Sipsoin insulation is in 2' lengths is is good to line the joints up so the insulation fastens closed easily. It it does not you may need a couple band clamps to help snap it up.

At the top of the 10' existing chimney I put 4' of brick anf 2 more 12x12" tiles. At the top of that I used an RHL 15" square flashing for a 6" pipe. I used the flashing-pass thoug upside down and through bolted a Selkirk adapter to the flashing with 4 Stainless though bolts. Similar to an anchor plate, but less expesive for me as I had a 3' length of Selkirk class A and Selkirk adapter on hand.

It is solid and I can easily remove the class A and clean without a ladder. It drafts like crazy even in warmis weather it gives good control of the draft right away. :coolsmile:

I watched the smoke close this weekend and I'm getting a pretty good handle on it.

Scored a nice 18" diameter tree at church yesterday. The garden club even helped deal with the brush and loading.

Thanks!
Mike P

Sounds like a nice setup. I spoke with a tech at Dura Vent today. I asked specifically if their Dura Liner double wall was made for relining masonry chimney. He said absolutely. Its double wall, insulated between layers, and thats the way I am going. When I get the old insert out and see what the path to smoke shelf looks like, I will see what I need in the way of flex to get to the rigid. I am kinda hoping I have lots of room and maybe running rigid right down to insert. With elbows if feasible. But I think thats a "pipe" dream.