New user, new cabin, new stove advice needed (something modern).

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Hi - recently purchased a 600 sq ft cabin with a loft in Upstate NY. It is reasonably insulated - PO lived there year round and currently has a Vogelzang Boxwood Stove. The less said about that stove the better, but I doubt it will make another winter.

The cabin is quite austere - 2 plates, 2 cups, 2 forks, 2 knives, 2 chairs, bed - and I was hoping for a modern design in a stove. A friend recently installed a Stuv 30 and I quite like it and was going in that direction, however the opportunity to purchase a bordering woodlot came up and I had to jump on it so my stove budget has lessened.

Looking at the Englander 17VL, but would appreciate other options under 2K. The thing that bothers me a little about the 17VL is the handle. I understand the need for the coil and the angle away from the main stove, but that handle really should have been designed to sit parallel to the side of the stove making the vertical line cleaner. Strange question, but has anyone bent or cut off and retrofitted a more aesthetically appealing handle?

The stovepipe and chimney is a straight vertical run and will all need to be replaced. I can be a "measure once cut three times" guy so my question is how difficult is pipe and chimney installation? I don't mind paying a professional to do it right, but if it's pretty straightforward I would be up for the challenge. The roof is sheet metal.

Thanks for the help. Great forum.

 

[begreen]

The 17VL was the first stove that came to mind. It has clean lines and is a great value. It's common for the handle to not be parallel, it keeps cooler away from the glass. Is the wood stove the soul source of heat? If so you probably should go larger than the 17VL unless you don't mind getting up a couple times at night to feed the stove. A modern stove will need decent draft. Typically this means a 15 ft flue system. Does the cabin have this? If it is just a foot shy then go with double-wall connector pipe to help compensate.

For a contemporary designed alternatives look at the Osburn Soho, Regency Alterra CS1200, Pacific Energy Neo 1.6.
http://www.osburn-mfg.com/en/heaters/soho-wood-stove
http://www.regency-fire.com/Products/Wood/Wood-Stoves/CS1200.aspx
http://www.pacificenergy.net/products/wood/contemporary-stoves/neo-16/

 

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Thanks for the tips, begreen. Will check out the links.

The stove is the sole source of heat, but I am considering a few electric panels to take the edge off in the shoulder seasons. I doubt I will head up there in winter as it is on a private rough and unplowed road.

Stupid question - does 15' flue mean the entire run from stove to top of chimney. If so, I probably do have 15' and no reason I can't make that whatever I want. Floor to ceiling is approx 10'. Not sure about roof clearances. The cabin is a clerestory - one long sloping roof - with the stove at the low end. If the chimney needs to clear the highest point of the roof, I'm going to have to have a pretty long chimney.

I appreciate the reasoning behind the angled handle, I just wish they made it square to the stove. As it stands it looks like an afterthought which is a shame in what looks like a good attempt to make an affordable modern stove.

 

[begreen]

If it's possible to relocate the stove move it so that the maximum pipe is in the cabin. That will cost less, the flue will stay warmer and cleaner. The height requirement varies with the stove. Some breathe easier than others. The top of the chimney may not need to be taller than the top of the roof. This depends on the roof slope. Here is a visual of the 10-3-2 rule for the chimney.

 

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Thanks. Not sure I have the option to move the stove position, but will consider it.

Cost less in what sense?

Some pics so you can see what I'm dealing with.

Existing chimney -



Stove -

 

[begreen]

Chimney pipe is much more costly than connector pipe. Not sure what is presently installed. It looks odd. Is that galvanized pipe or stainless chimney pipe?

The stove clearances to combustibles appear to have been ignored completely. That box stove is supposed to be 36" from the nearest combustible, in all directions.

 

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A good part of the reason I'm replacing the entire system. It is a rustic hunting cabin, but I don't want it to kill me.

Not sure if you can make it out but the white board is a non-combustible cement board. Though whether that's code or not I couldn't say. My guess is that he originally intended to have the stove centered on that. And made do with whatever he had on hand for the pipe. There is a slate piece underneath, but that also is too small for the stove.

So, if a 17VL:
Can I put it in the same location?
Will I need to surround it with a non-combustible box?
Is the existing run of pipe and chimney enough once replaced with the proper materials?

Again, thanks.

 

[begreen]

Currently it's the area behind the stove that appears to have the worst protection. The 17VL would be a major improvement. It has much closer clearances. There is no need for additional protection as long as the required clearances for the 17VL are honored. Download the manual for installation details. It looks like there is about 8 ft of pipe internally. If so, you will need about 7 ft of chimney from the roof up. The chimney will need a brace at 5' above the roof.

 

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Thanks, begreen. I will download the manual.

I could move the stove to the centre of the room nearer to one wall, but the challenge there is a large window in that location and I would lose a fair bit of floor space. That would give me 12' to the ceiling.

I should probably use an installer to get this right out of the gate. Haven't checked the site yet, but is there a list of vendors by state? Not sure if the local guy will install a stove he doesn't sell.

 

[saskwoodburner]

The Englander 17VL stove has really decent clearance to the back, somewhere around 11" to a bare wall using double wall pipe. With the appropriate shield on the wall, it's absolutely rediculous, 5" if I recall. You'd need a minimum 6" if you plan to install the blower.

It would probably meet your heat requirements, although I suspect your cabin would be chilly by the time morning rolls around, depending on how insulated it is. In our old mobile home, I set the thermostat for the oil furnace to 60-62, and it won't kick for upwards of 5 hours depending on weather conditions. I only sleep about 6 hours ever, so if I was a bachelor, I'd turn off the oil furnace unless it was severely cold lol.

btw, I have a short over all stack (about 10 feet) and once you learn the stove, it can be made to run. How cold does it get where you are? The warmer it is, the more chimney height matters I believe.

 

[begreen]

Thanks, begreen. I will download the manual.

I could move the stove to the centre of the room nearer to one wall, but the challenge there is a large window in that location and I would lose a fair bit of floor space. That would give me 12' to the ceiling.

I should probably use an installer to get this right out of the gate. Haven't checked the site yet, but is there a list of vendors by state? Not sure if the local guy will install a stove he doesn't sell.

One option for installers is to go to this site and and type in your zipcode for a list of certified CSIA sweeps in your area.
www.csia.org

 

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Thanks, sask. I'm Canadian as well so cold mornings don't throw me. Upstate NY can be anything from months of freezing to the spring-like weather of this winter. I may consider a electric heater or two, but I hate the look of them. I will suffer (shiver) for beauty.

The tolerances look good for the existing location.

Will check out the sweeps, begreen.

 

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Talked to my nearest retailer and they have the Osburn Soho in stock so will probably go in that direction. Little taken aback that the base is an extra charge. Can I use it without a base? No? Then just build it into the price. So it goes.

They mentioned stove mat as a non-combustible surface, but I might like to use a piece of actual stone from the site or a steel plate. Aside from L x W dimensions for clearance, are there any rules as to thickness?

Thanks.

 

[begreen]

If the only requirement for the hearth pad is that it be non-combustible then the material thickness is not important. You could use 24ga sheetmetal or 1/2" steel. As long as it presents a continuous barrier to sparks and embers, meeting at least the manual's minimum hearth size, then it should be fine. If stone, or tile then it needs to have grout or at least sand between the cracks.

 

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Thanks, begreen. That's what I figured and as I have some nice metal sheets around I should be good. I guess the DW Close Clearance pipe is the way to go as well.

I'll post some pics when it's all in. Now onto rebuilding the spring house and shopping compost toilets.

 

[begreen]

Looks like a great spot. Keep us posted on how the stove works out. We love pics too.

 

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Thought I'd do a half update.

Finally saw the Osburn Soho and didn't fit the bill aesthetically or practically. Hated the handle and was surprised on how small the opening was. Non starter.

Loved the Stuv cube and may just have to bite the bullet and go for the stove, but at 4K plus pipe, chimney, steel plate for the floor and install, I'm looking at a hell of an expense for a simple cabin.

Has anyone seen the Rais Q-Tee? About 1K less than the Stuv. 30K output which I assume is okay for my 650 sq ft cabin.