New stove and chimney installation

[SP77]

I just moved to a home in the Naples, Idaho area last August. I want to put in a wood stove immediately as the home has no other working source of heat currently. The house is 2 story above ground, approx. 2500sf. We are also considering a small addition soon, maybe another 500-1000sf. My goal is to have a large enough stove that it can be my only heat source if necessary. Another thing to keep in mind is that there is no possible way to have the stove in the center of the home, it will be either in a corner, or about 8 feet in from a corner along a flat wall. Most likely the flat wall spot.

I've heard nothing but great things about the Kuma's. I was sold on the Sequoia model, as it has excellent reviews and is rated up to 3500sf. But I found out yesterday from the factory that they no longer sell the Sequoia. Since I can't find a Sequoia, I'd like to get some input on other options. The Kuma's that are in current production are rated up to 2800sf. I'm wondering if I should settle for one of those, or maybe consider other brands? Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Mech e]

I would probably key in a bit more on BTU output. The Sequoia was rated at 90,000 BTUs. There are plenty of stoves out there rated in that range and higher available.

 

[begreen]

Stove ratings are general. They depend on a lot of variables like house insulation level, sealing, glazing amount and quality, outside temps, wind speed, etc.. Heating the whole house takes an open floorplan in the stove area and an easy way for heat to convect throughout the house or a tolerance for cooler outlying rooms. How does this work with your house's floorplan?

Regardless of stove choices, this is late in the season for planning. One will need a major stash of split and fully seasoned firewood to make this work.

For very large stoves look at the Regency 5100 and Blaze King King. Note that they all require an 8" flue system.

 

[SP77]

Stove ratings are general. They depend on a lot of variables like house insulation level, sealing, glazing amount and quality, outside temps, wind speed, etc.. Heating the whole house takes an open floorplan in the stove area and an easy way for heat to convect throughout the house or a tolerance for cooler outlying rooms. How does this work with your house's floorplan?

Regardless of stove choices, this is late in the season for planning. One will need a major stash of split and fully seasoned firewood to make this work.

For very large stoves look at the Regency 5100 and Blaze King King. Note that they all require an 8" flue system.

House is fairly open. High vaulted ceiling in the living room with a partial open to the top level. Also ceiling fan already installed in the peak of the vaulted ceiling.

Wood is not a problem, I have a good supply.

I’m curious about the 8” flue. I know the Sequoia required it. Do you feel that only stoves that require an 8” flue heat well enough for a house this size? I realize that the 8” is quite a bit more expensive than 6” piping and fittings.

 

[Highbeam]

I would probably key in a bit more on BTU output. The Sequoia was rated at 90,000 BTUs. There are plenty of stoves out there rated in that range and higher available.

Unfortunately, the btu ratings on pre2020 stoves are not accurate or real. You can’t use them for comparison. It is whatever the marketing department wanted to write.The good news is that going forward you will be able to compare the output specifications so long as you verify that the testing method (cordwood or cribwood) is the same.

Instead, firebox volume as measured by you (another time you can’t trust the specs) is about the best way.

 

[maple1]

I think I would most definitely be installing another heat source too, of some kind, along with lining a stove install up.

Or fixing what is there now? What is there now? Not having something else besides just a wood stove, that can function unattended, is usually a big no-no, around here at least - insurance wise. Even if it is seldom used.

 

[SP77]

Unfortunately, the btu ratings on pre2020 stoves are not accurate or real. You can’t use them for comparison. It is whatever the marketing department wanted to write.The good news is that going forward you will be able to compare the output specifications so long as you verify that the testing method (cordwood or cribwood) is the same.

Instead, firebox volume as measured by you (another time you can’t trust the specs) is about the best way.

I think I would most definitely be installing another heat source too, of some kind, along with lining a stove install up.

Or fixing what is there now? What is there now? Not having something else besides just a wood stove, that can function unattended, is usually a big no-no, around here at least - insurance wise. Even if it is seldom used.

The house has 2 other heat sources, Hydronic floor heat on both levels. The propane boiler is shot and needs replacement. I plan on doing something with this in the future, but only as a secondary heat source. Also there is a pellet stove that the previous owners were using. It's a made in China piece of garbage. The burn pot plugs up every day no matter what pellets I try. We've been getting by using it, but I can't wait to get rid of it.

So the plan is get the stove in ASAP, then later on look at fixing the hydronic. I also might put in a few Cadets in a couple of rooms.

 

[Highbeam]

I would not spend a dime on wood heat until that propane boiler is functional. As you know, Idaho is a cold place.

 

[begreen]

House is fairly open. High vaulted ceiling in the living room with a partial open to the top level. Also ceiling fan already installed in the peak of the vaulted ceiling.

Wood is not a problem, I have a good supply.

I’m curious about the 8” flue. I know the Sequoia required it. Do you feel that only stoves that require an 8” flue heat well enough for a house this size? I realize that the 8” is quite a bit more expensive than 6” piping and fittings.

It has to do with the high capacity of the firebox and large door opening.

I suspect that you would do much better with two 3 cu ft stoves. The vaulted ceilings add to the volume of air that has to be heated and probably lower btu content wood that they would be burning. They wouldn't need to both be running with temps say above 20º, but when it gets cold, the additional BTUs are warranted. Or have a backup form of heat like electric or propane.

Unfortunately, the btu ratings on pre2020 stoves are not accurate or real. You can’t use them for comparison.

Yes, peak BTUs are used for marketing mostly. They do not reflect 24/7 heat output at all.

 

[SP77]

I would not spend a dime on wood heat until that propane boiler is functional. As you know, Idaho is a cold place.

The boiler needs a total replacement. Already had one outfit lined up to put it a new unit. He flaked out. The other places I’ve called are all overbooked. I’m not interested in some incompetent contractor putting me on the schedule 2 months from now and screwing me over again. I need reliable heat immediately.

 

[Zack R]

You will need more than one stove to heat a large two story house in a cold climate. As you already know, the closer you can place it to the center of the house the easier it will be to heat the house evenly. When siting the stove try to keep as much of the chimney inside either the heated space or the attic/chase to keep it warm an drafting well (also minimizes creosote).

Vaulted ceilings are no joke, it takes a lot of output from the stove to fully warm up the room. I'm learning this as we speak, having just installed a new Jotul F55 in our living room and the nighttime temps are dropping into the 15-25F range. The ceiling fan helps a lot (set to push air upward, flushing the warm air back down).