New saw break-in?
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LOL, it really is in the manual.
Today's manuals will tell you to not to run it at wide open throttle (WOT) without a load (outside of wood) for the first couple/few tanks of fuel. When you do run it in wood, don't baby it. Run it in wood at WOT. In fact, that's a general rule for all saws--always cut at WOT.
If using the minimum octane gasoline recommended and quality 2-cycle mix, you don't need to run it extra rich, either. I will say that you should make sure a saw is properly tuned before running it. If you purchase at a dealer, they should tune it for you before they let you take it out their door.
Today's manuals will tell you to not to run it at wide open throttle (WOT) without a load (outside of wood) for the first couple/few tanks of fuel. When you do run it in wood, don't baby it. Run it in wood at WOT. In fact, that's a general rule for all saws--always cut at WOT.
If using the minimum octane gasoline recommended and quality 2-cycle mix, you don't need to run it extra rich, either. I will say that you should make sure a saw is properly tuned before running it. If you purchase at a dealer, they should tune it for you before they let you take it out their door.
As TP mentions, it's common for a new saw to be set rich for some number of tanks, with the expectation that you'll bring it back to the dealer to retune it after break-in. My 359 was set as rich as the tabs would allow, which according to the tach (after break-in) was still borderline lean. Doesn't seem to have caused any problems.
If it is at all possible avoid gas with Ethanol.More than likely it is set lean from the factory and the ethanol could lean it out even more,and use a good quality oil, Ken
Some mfgs recommend a LITTLE extra oil in the mix for the first 100 hrs. or so. Say, 40:1 rather than 50:1.
Not a bad idea to give it periodic breaks- some seconds at idle to cool, rather than constant full-bore running.
Every saw I've owned survived quite nicely with some part-throttle running, like when cutting small-diameter wood.
Not a bad idea to give it periodic breaks- some seconds at idle to cool, rather than constant full-bore running.
Every saw I've owned survived quite nicely with some part-throttle running, like when cutting small-diameter wood.
Here's how I break them in. throw on ground, roll big azzed log from high up on the pile on to it. The good rugged saws(expensive), you back over them with your pickup or tractor. Take back to dealer and say"She's not running right, can you fix her". 
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