I did it. I just ordered an Osburn 2200 insert from Dynamitebuys. I'm very pleased with the price of $1700 without the faceplate (more on that later) and looking forward to a cozy winter. After I called a chimney guy about adding a liner and was given the standard rate of $2300() I decided to do it myself. After lots of research on this site, I don't have a problem with any of the work just a few questions about my install and a few gaps in my knowledge. Here's my deal. Let me know what you think.
1) Cap - At the top will be a terra cotta cap, sealed and attached to the existing 8x13 clay liner.
2) Sweep - We've had fewer than 10 fires since the clay chimney was last swept. Should it be swept again before the install?
3) SS Liner - I'll be dropping a 6" 316 SS flex liner insulated the full length of ~25'. The inside of the existing clay liner measures ~7.25" wide. Will the 6" with .5" blanket insulation fit easily enough? Any experience with this? Should I ovalize the liner a bit for easier installation?
4) Existing Damper - The liner will drop into the fireplace after passing through the existing castiron damper that's built into the masonry of the firebox. I could cut it a bit to let the liner through but would rather keep it intact and not damage any of the infrastructure. I'm planning to ovalize the liner to get it through the damper opening of 4.5" wide. Can anyone see any serious concerns?
5) Blockoff Plate - Leaving the existing damper in place gives the perfect area to mount the blockoff plate. I understand that this is important but can some tell me, or point me to an old post, that explains exactly why the cavity between the cap and firebox really needs to be sealed?
6) Liner to Stove - After I get the liner through the existing damper, there a 5" offset where it enters the firebox to the opening on the insert that should be easy to achieve with the flex liner in the 16" worth of rise in the space. This would make the full length, from insert to cap, SS liner (plus appliance connector). Is there any concern with that? Should rigid pipe be used in the firebox? And, should the pipe in the firebox be insulated as well or is OK to leave that 16" worth of rise exposed?
7) Faceplate - The fireplace opening is 34.5" wide by 31" high at the peak of the arch shown in the pics. None of the faceplates are wide enough for the area. Further, the faceplate for the 2200 is designed with a certain angle around the outside square of the plate that would not be terribly good looking if trimmed to the arch I have. Therefore, I was going to build one or have something fabricated. Is it important that the faceplate be a solid sheet and sealed? What if I design something with decorative perforations using this: (broken link removed to http://www.decorativeiron.com/products.php?type=ornamental&view=subcategory&category_id=13&subcategory_id=83) ? Any thoughts on copper for the faceplate? Anyone know of a fabricator that has done something for the 2200?
8) Hearth.com - This site rocks. The expertise and knowledge I've gained has been soooo valuable. I'm sure advertisers do well here and more than pay the bills but, why isn't there a Paypal donation button on the homepage? I'd be more than happy to support the site with a few bucks in return for the education I've received.
1) Cap - At the top will be a terra cotta cap, sealed and attached to the existing 8x13 clay liner.
2) Sweep - We've had fewer than 10 fires since the clay chimney was last swept. Should it be swept again before the install?
3) SS Liner - I'll be dropping a 6" 316 SS flex liner insulated the full length of ~25'. The inside of the existing clay liner measures ~7.25" wide. Will the 6" with .5" blanket insulation fit easily enough? Any experience with this? Should I ovalize the liner a bit for easier installation?
4) Existing Damper - The liner will drop into the fireplace after passing through the existing castiron damper that's built into the masonry of the firebox. I could cut it a bit to let the liner through but would rather keep it intact and not damage any of the infrastructure. I'm planning to ovalize the liner to get it through the damper opening of 4.5" wide. Can anyone see any serious concerns?
5) Blockoff Plate - Leaving the existing damper in place gives the perfect area to mount the blockoff plate. I understand that this is important but can some tell me, or point me to an old post, that explains exactly why the cavity between the cap and firebox really needs to be sealed?
6) Liner to Stove - After I get the liner through the existing damper, there a 5" offset where it enters the firebox to the opening on the insert that should be easy to achieve with the flex liner in the 16" worth of rise in the space. This would make the full length, from insert to cap, SS liner (plus appliance connector). Is there any concern with that? Should rigid pipe be used in the firebox? And, should the pipe in the firebox be insulated as well or is OK to leave that 16" worth of rise exposed?
7) Faceplate - The fireplace opening is 34.5" wide by 31" high at the peak of the arch shown in the pics. None of the faceplates are wide enough for the area. Further, the faceplate for the 2200 is designed with a certain angle around the outside square of the plate that would not be terribly good looking if trimmed to the arch I have. Therefore, I was going to build one or have something fabricated. Is it important that the faceplate be a solid sheet and sealed? What if I design something with decorative perforations using this: (broken link removed to http://www.decorativeiron.com/products.php?type=ornamental&view=subcategory&category_id=13&subcategory_id=83) ? Any thoughts on copper for the faceplate? Anyone know of a fabricator that has done something for the 2200?
8) Hearth.com - This site rocks. The expertise and knowledge I've gained has been soooo valuable. I'm sure advertisers do well here and more than pay the bills but, why isn't there a Paypal donation button on the homepage? I'd be more than happy to support the site with a few bucks in return for the education I've received.